I'll be a fun project for some

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by SilveradoMike

On redusing brake usage. Anyone ever tried hooking up a tazer to the brake switch so when you press the brake you get a "reminder"? lol. It's an idea.

I'd consider to get a kill-switch, and some secondary activation for it by the brake pedal.

On starters. Yes Ive actually had one on my last ls series vehicle (03 express van) and they do last longer but my experience was that the gears start to wear and make awful noises after a while. I do forget what brand mine was but it was about $220. IMHO its all the same regular startes wear motors gear reduction units wear gears. All that torque has to go some where its just what breaks first.

I still believe it would worth to try the idle shut-off and engine-off coasting

[slowmover]

And I found that my rear axle has 3.73 gear ratio which is great for pulling my 700-1500 lb load daily, but terrible for highway speeds.I drive ~200-350 miles per day (including commute) 90% of my daily mileage is rural windy road.

I'd say those gears may not be a problem for those roads. There might be a tendency to push too hard on a vehicle geared too high. Wear on the engine isn't worth it, IMO.

Baseline the vehicle mechanically. No slop in steering, for example. As a tech you know very well it may come down to pulling the intermediate shaft and working outward to the wheels. Everything may need to be replaced. Steering corrections per 100 miles is quoted by truck manufacturers as a measurable problem. MPG, better, fuel efficiency is about the small stuff for a given vehicle with a fixed configuration.

Same for perfect alignment, zero brake drag, and tire pressure according to load (within vehicle manufacturer spec). Weigh the truck, empty, and with at least one sample load (CAT Scale). Work on all the little stuff. And a truck that old may have worn out springs, spring cushions, anti-roll bushings, etc. Best shocks (KONI, second choice is BILSTEIN) make a noticeable improvement. Nose-up ain't acceptable for steering much less for FE.

IMO, it comes down to being able to maintain lane-centeredness with little or no driver inputs on a commercial vehicle (I drive Class 8 in the oilfield, hotshot previously with 1T & gooseneck) or in towing. This is not easy to achieve on an old vehicle. But it's where I'd spend the money. I believe you'll find more money here than in anything else.

My personal truck (in sig) is nearing 200k. The front springs are tired. So are the upper ball joints. So it's time to do it all (this year). Whatever it takes to have a super tight front end and zero-slop steering (though only a guy with concerns about longest vehicle life or highest mpg might notice the difference).

Start with records. Fill out the fuel log. FE is about percentage improvements to the baseline, so records that all can consult about your truck will be helpful.

And, if you haven't bought tires, stick with commercial tires from MICHELIN or BRIDGESTONE with closed shoulder, highway rib configuration.

[SilveradoMike]

I have checked everything on the truck including front suspension and steering components. Everything seems to be in pretty good shape. Control arm bushings are getting close but thats it.
On tires. Ive tried just about every tire brand under the sun. I had a set of Michelen XLM (I think) they had a 80,000 mile tread life rating/warranty and I wore them out in just over 50,000 and they cost just over 1000. Ive been using CooperDiscovery H/T and they have been getting 45,000 and only cost 600.Cost wins this one. Yes Im sure a full closed shoulder tire would require less rotations and ovver a little lower rolling resistance but IMHO is not worth an extra 400 bucks every 8 months.

My rear springs are worn pretty bad. When Im loaded with about 1000lbs the rear tires are just about tucked into the wheel wells. I have a set of 3/4t springs that I had rearched (back to stock height) reay to be installed as soon as I have some time. Front torsion bars are the softest ones offered in my genre of chevy, I do plan on replacing them with some 3/4t units as well. Also have a 3/4t rear axle to swap in as soon as I fully rebuild it.

[Frank Lee]

Bigger gears in heavier axle will have slightly more internal friction.

You could also put air bags on the rear; I did that on a '76 Camper Special and they work well, plus have a wide range of adjustment.

[SilveradoMike]

I had air bags on the rear of my express they were awesome other then ripping the bags once a year. If I were to do air bags again I would build my own kit I dont feel the kits on the market for regular pickups are up to every day ABUSE.

[JRMichler]

Originally Posted by SilveradoMike

On hill climbing. Should I be staying in high gear or down shifting to compensate? Ie 55 mph on flat ground is about 1800rpm in 5th gear at ~15% throttle input. On a hill of decent grade or distance maintaining same throttle input speed falls off and rpm to below 1000rpm pretty quick. Should I down shift or add more throttle? Im slightly confused on this.

Here's a thread on climbing hills: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ear-23957.html

You will need to experiment and find out what works best for your truck. Ultragauge / Scangauge is your friend when doing this.

[wmjinman]

Originally Posted by JRMichler

Here's a thread on climbing hills: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ear-23957.html

You will need to experiment and find out what works best for your truck. Ultragauge / Scangauge is your friend when doing this.

I just went & re-read that whole hill climbing thread again. Now that I'm driving my Swift with a manual, I've got more control over the gear I go up hill in. Gotta go back and test the methods in that car!!!

Yesterday, I took a quick run to Sacramento - and made it up Donner Summit in 5th gear!!!! I couldn't believe it!!! That new engine has some serious poop!! But coming back the "other way" - up US-50 around South Lake Tahoe, I had to downshift several times climbing Echo Summit. There was probably the extra weight of more gas in the tank for the return trip, but that was the only difference (unless, of course, the grades are steeper on that route, which is probably the case, since 50 isn't a freeway like I-80 is)

[SilveradoMike]

Aww man you drove right by my house yesterday going up 50.

[wmjinman]

Oh really? You're along 50? Wow, we could meet some day!! I go through there a couple times a month (sometimes go to Reno & take I-80 if I'm feeling too lazy to navigate all the hills & turns of 50.) But maybe I could help you with your aero fairings or something . . .

[SilveradoMike]

Yup US 50 @ Cameron Park Dr.