Kill switch how-to

[HilseeJ]

Going to go ahead and give this a bump for my previous question.

[dcb]

I don't use the fuse box anymore, just put a nc switch inline with the cam or crank position sensor.

I did have a fuse rig made from an old fuse with wires soldered to it, but it suffered from dissimiliar metal corrosion pretty badly and was a point of frequent trouble.

[Luxbg]

Since I'm new to modding and have very little wiring knowledge, I was wondering what the best option is for my 03 Lancer to install a kill switch and starter button without causing any unwanted side effects/damage over the long term?

The write up at Instructables seems easiest to do to me (Awesome Push Button Ignition) but if I read this thread right, there might be problems with fuel injectors because they don't shut off completely? Also, I definitely wanna keep my scangauge and odometer running.

dcb's method (crankshaft or cam sensor) seems equally easy and avoids that problem, however I don't know if it applicable to my Lancer and if it is, how to install it?

[mikee55]

Don't often post here, but I frequent quietly. Can anyone help me do this to my 93 nissan serenna 2.0l petrol. Thanks

[bnmorgan]

ok, i may have missed it, but i think i scanned through enough that if i missed it at least i tried:

How do i do this to a carb'ed car? '88 Festiva

[Piwoslaw]

I'm thinking about joining the kill-switch crowd (Christ will call me a follower ), so I asked on my local Peugeot forum how to kill the engine w/o fooling around with the key in the ignition. Someone mentioned the camshaft position sensor and after googling I see that's the way many ecomodders went. So I ask the Peugeot guys where to look for that sensor and its wires in my engine (1.6HDi) and guess what? I get about 10 answers, none of them helpful "Why do you want to kill the engine?" "Oh that may be hard." "Some cars can be stopped and started with a remote control. I have one of those setups. If anyone is interested, drop me a PM." etc. Kinda PI$$ED me off.

So even though this site doesn't specialize in HDi turbodiesels, the users are much more friendly and helpful That's why I ask: Does anyone have any idea where to look for my camshaft sensor's wires? Do you think I'll have to take the engine apart to find them? I've looked for (and asked for) wiring diagrams for my engine, but it seems to be too new, I can only find specs for the older units. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

[jtgh]

the fuel cut. (car controls tech) Don't need to be hard. no fuses, gee.

all cars are different (and for sure the ignition can be quite different. old to new DIS.
up to 4 coils on new cars. (4 cyl)

Best way to cut fuel is just drop the gas pedal. (let it flop back)
in gear. ( as other trained ppl here have said) Yes, car will slow on not too steep a hill. but does work well.

CUT FUEL: (OEM)
the IDLE switch closes and the ECU detects VSS high, vacuum high ( low load) and Low RPM.
RPM comes from cam , crank or both sensors.
Some cars have virtual Idle switch , just uses the low voltage on TPS pot. (like my suzuki 1.8L sport). works that same , less parts.

Features common to EFI:
secondly the ECU will cut fuel anytime the spark read back fails.
most cars with EFI have a spark read back wire that tells ecu that spark is really happening, if this signal is to stop then all fuel injections are cut , immediatly.
89-98 Suzuki's have this wire and is on the schematic and does kill fuel if wire is cut. It uses the Back EMF from the coil primary as the trigger.

,just putting a simple switch SPST (normal closed) will work for the CMP sensors (located in the Distributor or the Cam.) You dont need a schematic for 2 wires.
but you do need the cars ecu schmatic, all public Libraries have them (at e-soruces online)


But watch out some cars with crank and cam (cmp) sensors can run with one dead.
The crank sensor is use to deskew the timing from a sloopy tim-ng belt or chain. Cam sender tells which cyl. is firing.

My 96 suzuki sidekick can run sans, crank (CKP) sensor.


The is not a green endevor because you are lettting the CATconv. cool off and that makes nasty startups.
Cold cat = smog.

so , just coast down the hill normal. Not in neutral. Just about all neutral coasting is over speed, so why overspeed.
Real coasting is illegal in most states.
when you dump the clutch on rain soak roads this can be dangerous. (ask any motorcyclist about that trick)

idling uses some gas.
fuel cut uses none to nill.

that my take.

cheers.

[RobertSmalls]

The 1996 Subaru 2.2L has all four fuel injectors sharing a ground wire, enabling a single-wire, four injector kill switch.

The 2000 Honda Insight requires a three-wire cut, and you have to keep the clutch switch closed or it will automatically restart the engine.

[CoastRider]

1989 F150 I used the +ign lead coming from the switch on the column, spliced a push pull switch into it. for the push button start I tapped an empty spot on the fuse block hot when ign on only.

[jtgh]

look what your doing.?
if you are powering up and power down electronics , (full power) all the time
this puts huge surge stresses on it. ( a switch happens in almost zero rise time )
and is brutal to electronics equipment. (most ECU'S can take it but....)

best is to cut the signal out of a CMP.
this sensor is just a hall effect sensor and please do not cuts its power feed , just its output line.

Just like keying on and off 1000 times, its bad, and not just bad for the key switch.

as i sad cutting the injectors , cools the cat and makes smog.
safer is cutting the CMP but is still dirty smog wise.
using the gas pedal keeps the cat hot and saves gas and is Green.

Most ECUs are programmed to do that so ,cruising , the CAT is really hot,
most ECU'S feed it a tiny bit of gas, to keep it Lit OFF. (required by law) at FUEL cut.
and is a Green function. (fuel cut= pull foot off throttle pedal)

Its also illegal to defeat this function , in case you didn't know. (not that i care , just completeness for others that do)

killing power to the injectors will only hurt environment (after restart and during the delayed warm up of the cat) not hurt the car.

killing power to in Ignition modules over and over is , iMHO , NOT too good.
This is also illegal in most states and risks , steering lock up , if done with the key.
Surging the Ignition modules ( price them , price those nice cheap COPs)
is not too good, either, IMHO $900+ at some dealers.

Insites, ( hacking and Insite. wow, i wont go there.)

if you have a new car, using a real live obd2 scan tool , look at the advanced data stream and see the injector PW parameter, with foot off gas.
very very tiny fuel. way less than IDLE ,rate !!!!

most MPG gauges are not accurate on this low end , because they cheat.
they take MAF READINGS and do the math in reverse (14.7:1 ) to arrive at fuel usage. (air , temperature , one can do that ) but
14.7:1 is wrong for fuel cut, dead wrong. so the gauge just overanges.

not all but many. are wrong at cut fuel .

keep that in mind , when looking. and MPG guages.

the only accurate way to get MPG is with GPS for speed
and real Injector PW. (live)
then get the Injector tables and subtract the dead time form measured PW and get actual Fuel flow , based on the actual vehicle fuel pressure.
the mfg of injectors says" at this zone , flow is nonlinear"

Few attempt to do this test accurately.

It only works out accurate at cruise and the fuel cut mode is very inaccurate.
just read up on that subject at the injector mfg sites.

that is my knowledge on ECU'S ( I have a mega-squirt on my car and i had to program all these feature in to it the hard way. so been there done that)

hope this helps. clear up fuel cut , or at least open some doors.

cheers.