NEED help on paul/sabrina controller not working - Page 4 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

OMT · 06-03-2013, 12:54 PM

ok i removed the cap and it records to be going down from 11.72 about 0.01V every couple seconds or so. im assuming this slow voltage loss is normal. i placed an order for a cincon but this one still wont budge! all the legs are flush wit the board, i tried holding the solder on holes while pulling it but no luck.

MPaulHolmes · 06-03-2013, 02:03 PM

Hmm, if you have 2 or 3 irons, maybe you could add mroe solder to the holes, and then hold each iron over 2 holes each at the same time (all on one side) so that you could pull out one side, and then do the same to the other side, and sort of walk it out.

OMT · 06-03-2013, 04:59 PM

i dont have any more

im trying to see if a local electronic store can maybe remove it for me

OMT · 06-13-2013, 08:25 PM

ok so just an update on the fix, the guy had a lot of trouble removing the cincon ( the new one arrived just yesterday) but he says he will have it removed tomorrow most likely. so it got me thinking is there anything else I can do other than soldering it in right away, or should I install it and test the voltages again?

Also I would like to thank everyone that has contributed on helping me fix my electric car! I promise to upload a lot of photos and videos as soon as I can find some free time!

MPaulHolmes · 06-14-2013, 03:10 AM

I know what you mean. It would suck to put it in, adn have the same problem... Maybe you could put the OLD dc-dc on a breadboard, and then put 12v on the input side, and see if it's working. If it's still not working, then maybe assume that it's the problem.

OMT · 06-22-2013, 08:42 PM

sildered in the new cincon but I cant get an output reading, both lights on. I soldered r1-10..ect and tried to run the motor but no luck

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OMT · 06-22-2013, 09:24 PM

I noticed r6 wasn't soldered propery, after fixing it and checking all others I power it up to be accompanied by a massive electric explosion under the hood :$...great. here are some pics.. any suggestions please im getting pretty despirate right now for a working controller

Weisheimer · 06-24-2013, 10:49 AM

Where are you located in Ontario?
I'm in Columbus, Ohio and I can check over your controller and let you know what is wrong with it.
If you want to send it, pm me for my address and details.

OMT · 06-28-2013, 08:43 PM

im just afraid shipping will kill me back and forth. I think im just going to remove the new cincon dc-dc I bought and maybe try and remove the microprocessor( any suggestions :0) and just buy a whole new control board along with most of the components... and one diode for the power board I guess, just waiting on a response for the control board

Weisheimer · 06-29-2013, 09:07 AM

I saw in another forum that you are in London, Ont.
I suspect shipping would run about $20 each way if you use ground.
It would probably be about 2 days transit, but I don't know about customs holding time.
You could check FedEx/UPS and see what they have to say about transit times.
Tell them that you are shipping it to a commercial address Columbus, Ohio 43215 for warranty repair.
It's about a 5 hour drive...I have relatives scattered between Sarnia and London so have driven it many times.

But, fixing it there yourself is certainly more self satisfying.

If your micro-controller is soldered in, I would cut the legs at the body and then de-solder the remaining legs.
The PS boards soak up a lot of heat, so practice and a powerful temperature controlled soldering station are helpful.
I use a Weller temp controlled soldering station for most work, but also have this very old Western Electric soldering iron that is massive.
I call it "the persuader"...