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Old 05-30-2013, 03:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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NEED help on paul/sabrina controller not working

so i cant find out what the issue is with my controller ( i bought it as a kit) it first went bad when my dc-dc blew and it blew the the output side of the optocoupler U9, which provides a 12 VDC gate drive for the contactor MOSFET Q1, but i dont use this so i figured it still worked after i tested it the motor up in neutral!! i put it all back together, make sure the lights are both solid. ( they still are) but as my freind was dischrging the capacitor bank with the resistor when we were romoving it, he accidentally touched the +/- side for the battery input of the controller and made a nasty blue spark. i didnt think it would ruin anything but sure enough. i reconnect the controller and it doesnt work again. although both lights are solid. so im now removing it once again to check for any other fried components? help lol i need to get the car on the road and am willing to pay for valuable help!
i cant post pictures because it says i have to make 5 posts but i have the control board and power section apart i checked gr1-gr10 and ph1/ph2 for 12v when throttle was on but it was zero.(last time the controller was put together)

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Old 05-30-2013, 03:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Let's work backwards until we find the problem... With no power connected to the bus bars at all, turn on the 12v power to the control board. Measure voltage across R16 when there's zero throttle and slowly increase throttle. What happens? It should start at 12v, and then go down to zero volts briefly, and then back to 12v, and one of the LEDs should blink fast.

Next, CAREFULLY measure the voltage from Pin 2 to pin 3 of U6 while throttle starts at zero, and increases.

Next start at zero throttle, and gradually increase throttle while measuring voltage across R12. What happens?
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the controller is aprt not so gr1-10 and ph1-2 and desoldered. now the yellow light is blinking should i still test it?
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can still test it without PH1 and PH2 and the gate resistors. Just make sure the current sensor is connected, and the throttle, and that there are no weird settings programmed. haha.
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Old 05-30-2013, 03:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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never mind the light stopped, my battery voltage is about 10.5 ( just a scrap battery) and r16 an zero was only 7.45 and at about 80% throttle only went to 7.11v
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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now i put a charger on the 12v battery just incase and the voltage stays at 6.98 around there only once while feathering the throttle did i get it to go to zero
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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oh aha and by the way how do i count the pin numbers i know where u6 is but i dont know which ones are pin 2/3
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks for helping!!
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's a good example. There will either be a notch at the top, or a dot at pin 1, or some other weird way. haha.

http://cdselectronics.com/Components/CHIP/ic_legs1.jpg
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thank you sir! im off to record data!

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