Starting to Mod my Xfi

[Johnny Mullet]

You probably do more city driving than I do, so you are still way above that average which is real good. Compression seems as good as it can get.

New fuel and air filter may help some.
400-600 degrees is operating range of a cat.

[bbjsw10]

Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet

You probably do more city driving than I do, so you are still way above that average which is real good. Compression seems as good as it can get.

New fuel and air filter may help some.
400-600 degrees is operating range of a cat.

Considering my last tank was 243 miles and 100 mile hwy the rest city. Probably alot of the factor. I don't leave town too much.

Already did air filter I may do the fuel this week when I get paid.

Some day maybe I will get a all hwy trip to see what it does.

[Coyote X]

If the steel line on the carbon can has a hole in it then it is possible for it to leak a bit of gas out of it. There is a check valve on top of the tank for that line but it doesn't always stop the gas from flowing through that line and killing the carbon can or leaking out in your case. I would just cut the rusted area out and get a longer hose for it or do away with it all together if you think the carbon can is already dead.

Also when you set your timing did you ground that wire like it shows in the diagram under the hood. If not you set it way lower than 7 degrees. Without that connector jumpered it will be about 15-20 degrees at idle I think. I would bump it up to 8-10 degrees timing anyway, the factory spec is pretty low.

The rear wheel bearings will die very quickly once they start making noise. They are pretty cheap though. I think I paid 30 bucks for all the rear bearings and some synthetic grease. They are easy to fix if they haven't totally died yet. The fronts can make it a bit farther but when they die they can really cause trouble. They are a pain to change yourself so it might be worth taking the knuckle off and going to a shop to have them pressed in if you don't have the tools to do it. Teamswift has a lot of info on changing front wheel bearings.

[bbjsw10]

Originally Posted by Coyote X

do away with it all together if you think the carbon can is already dead.

Also when you set your timing did you ground that wire like it shows in the diagram under the hood.

I think I paid 30 bucks for all the rear bearings

Will it hurt anything to disconnect it?

Yeah I jumpered that connector.

Where did you get them for only $30? Autozone is a lot higher than that.

[Coyote X]

wow I just looked up prices and they have went way up from a couple of years ago. I guess the demand for metro parts has made them double prices

You can just plug all the lines to the carbon can and leave it there. Taking it off is easy though. When I took mine out I noticed it was empty from getting gas soaked all the time. Taking the gasket off the gas cap will relieve pressure in the tank so you can just plug the steel line coming from the back. Cut it off past the rusted area and cap it. The OBD1 cars didn't have any sensors or any way to tell if it was working so you will not get a check engine light or any other problems from taking it off.

[bbjsw10]

CoyoteX thanks for the tip I may try it sometime.

I made another piece for my car tonight. I may make another how-to not sure yet.
It is a small circuit that turns on an led at 12Volts so I can run without alternator and not discharge my battery too low. I am probably going to install a Group 24 deep cycle battery this weekend. I can get them almost free at work. One of the benefits of working at an Rv dealership. I will post a pic of the little circuit I made up tonight once I get it installed.

The nice thing about it is that the voltage can me chosen by dialing it in. So when I do install different battery that can discharge more I can lower the voltage the led kicks on at.

[Roman]

Nice Job.

I hope i wil also go above 50 MPG.

I got some questions. On your fuel page you wrote:

1st tank Changed oil, Valve cover gasket, airfilter, Seafoamed,Plug wires, Plugs, set timing @ 7 degs

First: Will a chaning calve cover gasket and Plug wires improve mpg

And second: Whats seafoamed (dictonary gave no rersult, also not on seafoam.)

[bbjsw10]

Originally Posted by Roman

Nice Job.

I hope i wil also go above 50 MPG.

I got some questions. On your fuel page you wrote:



First: Will a chaning calve cover gasket and Plug wires improve mpg

And second: Whats seafoamed (dictonary gave no rersult, also not on seafoam.)

Valve cover will not it was leaking, plug wires may but only if they are bad.

Seafoam is an engine treatment. I put 1/3 bottle in oil, 1/3 in gas and 1/3 through the throttle body. Sea Foam

[bbjsw10]

I only got 44.3 Mpg this time, I gotta figure out what is going on with this thing. I want my 57 Mpg tank back again. I think wheel bearings a little of it and exhaust. But could that be worth 10-15 Mpg?

It still coast like it did before so wheel bearings are not bad enough to drop FE that much. The only thing I can think is the exhaust.

I am just getting frustrated.

I am doing EOC, some pulse and glide, some EO at lights, and DWL. And only got 44!! I need to fix this ASAP. I feel I should be able to knock off 55-60 MPG in town or more.

[bbjsw10]

Here is a video of my car idling and the engine noise. I believe it is a lifter on #1 plus my timing belt tensioner is starting to go too. That is what I get for having a 17 yr. old car. Does this sound normal for a 3 cyl. as far as rough idle?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnlhOq2jwVU