1993 Chevy Lumina sedan build thread

[Regenerit]

I've decided to grill block about 90% of my grill on my lumina and see how it does. Below are pictures of everything I will be blocking (in yellow). I will be using cardboard to get the specifications right and then use it as a template for coroplast. My main concern is how to attach the coroplast properly for easy removal. I was thinking of using a velcro system to attach the coroplast on the small left and right vents that have little use and are slanted about 70 degrees from the horizontal. For the main grill, I may just use zip ties.
Any suggestions about anything?
Click on the pictures below to see the full image.

[Daox]

Well, first off I wouldn't recommend blocking 90% of the grill. There are a few people running large and even 100% grill blocks (I am one of those), and for the average hypermiler its too much. I P&G like crazy and its even too much for me once I get up to highway speeds. So, make sure you watch to see how much your fan is coming on. I have an indicator light hooked up to the radiator fan relay so I can see how much its coming on.

[Sven7]

Like a champion.

[Regenerit]

I'm going to go ahead and cover up the two side foglight holes and my top grill and see how things go from there. Thanks for your input you two.

Alfredo

[Regenerit]

I have attached the two foglight coroplast covers on to both sides of my car. I'm working on getting my grill covered. Below are pictures of the foglight covers. To attach the covers, I used plenty of clear generic packaging tape. I didnt bother with coloring them for now, just wanted them on ASAP. Going to get the grill attached soon and see how that goes.

[Regenerit]

Today I finished making my top grill block and placing it on. I used WA8979 which is the factory color for my vehicle. I did not use a primer so the paint could easily chip off of the coroplast. After letting the paint dry, I put clear packaging tape over the surface of the painted coroplast to protect the paint. It seems to be doing a good job. EDIT: bad idea, the weather (especially the rain) messes up the tape and also the tape is able to hold onto dirt and grudge whereever it is exposed.
In additon to the grill block, I got carried away and also taped a lot of my front up with clear packaging tape to smooth the airflow out through multiple surfaces around my front lights. Below are the pictures for my grill block as well as where I put the tape: EDIT: once again, bad idea to use tape.

[Regenerit]

So I've run into trouble now that the rainy weather has arrived and ruined the clear packaging tape I was using which is okay; it looked really tacky.

BUT, now my question is: What is the best way of painting coroplast? I've decided to use zip ties to attach my grill block to my grill but I want to avoid the use of tape to cover the poor paint job that comes off easily and to avoid it, I want to do a good paint job. Would using paint primer on the coroplast be enough to keep the paint from peeling away so easily?
EDIT: Answer: Looks like paint primer does work great at keeping the paint on. Great!

[Regenerit]

Grill block:
So I had some spare time today after school to redo my top grill block this time with the proper paint primer and got all the way down to the paint and clear coat. I also stopped by my local Ace Hardware store to get 4" diamater zip ties (8 of them) for $2. They will come in handy for when I want to attach my grill blocks to my top grill.

Air Dam:
ADDITIONALLY! I got into the process of making an air dam for the front of my car. It will span about 7.5 inches down and leave a clearance of about 3 inches throughout for my car. Since I dont have any large pieces of coroplast, I have decided to stitch multiple 7.5"x18.5" coroplast boards together using small zip ties near the end of the process. Today I used a black paint primer on the boards to give them a nice dark color although it looks like i might have to add a second coat (its not looking as dark as the cap indicated). So far I have only 4 boards (18.5"x4 = 72"/12"=6.17') and they come just short of the amount needed (I need about 7 feet for the entire air dam). I'll be getting some free signs from my local politicians' office tomorrow so I'll be able to finish off my project from there. I'll be making my dam a bit extra wide so that it can go over the surface of my wheels (they are a bit exposed with the stock bumper). Lastly, I'll be using screws with washers and a drill to make holes into the black plastic moldings seen on the underside of my bumper. They are surprisingly thin at about maybe an eighth of an inch.
Below are the pictures.Let me know what you all think about my current idea.

[Flakbadger]

Looks like a good start.
I would suggest getting some stick-on window insulation to fill the cracks with instead of clear packaging tape. It looks a wee bit nicer in my opinion.
Anyway good luck, hope you see big returns on your time invested

[aerohead]

My suggestion would be to follow the perimeter of the bumper fascia exactly like you see with current NASCAR .The bottom edge should be a little forward of the top and should be no lower than the lowest under-chassis components.
If you want to experiment with lower chin spoilers later,you can always add that.
The way you've illustrated your form looks like it will add so much additional frontal area that it will defeat some of the drag reduction.It's also so low that if you ever forget to climb a driveway ramp obliquely,that you'll rip your handiwork to shreds.