1994 Diesel Suburban Build

[deejaaa]

not so sure about ensolite having heat barrier properties.
here's an audio site that talks about sound qualities:
Ensolite - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum
here's a place that sell the product:
https://www.foammart.com/p-456-ensolite.aspx
from the site:
"Ensolite PVC-NBR-CR is an energy absorbing foam originally developed by NASA to protect pressure from damage. It has virtually 100% memory and is waterproof."

[aardvarcus]

The foam will inherently block some heat in the sense that as closed cell foam it develops R-value to reduce conductive heat transfer, even though that is not the typical use for the brand name I mentioned. Looks to be U value of 0.25 so R-4 per inch based on some data sheets I have seen. The stuff being sold for car audio is only 1/8” thick, so I would have to do multiple layers to get where I want or source some thicker material, which is not easy in self-adhesive form. I figure I would want at least R-2 on the inside, so ½” minimum. I have also been looking at cross linked polyethylene foam, I have seen up to 215 degrees F, which should be fine for an interior firewall application.

I am basically looking for the lightest reasonably priced material to add thermal insulation to the interior of the vehicle that can stand up to the service temperature, be flame retardant, and not be itchy. I have also considered a layer of foam and then a layer of some sort of synthetic batting. If I could use polyisocyanrate or extruded polystyrene I would be all set, as I have plenty of that lying around, but the temperature ratings/ flame retardency are a no go.

The exterior firewall will have a layer of Thermo-Tech Thermo Guard Flame Retardant with the edges taped, rated as 90% radiant barrier and at ¼” thick should be around R-1 or so. That should keep the temperature the interior firewall insulation is dealing with to a reasonable level.

[aardvarcus]

I am getting ramped up to put the powertrain into the Suburban and get it on the road. I have the next two Saturdays lined up (assuming nothing else pressing comes up) to work on it, and am also trying to spend a few hours in the evenings on it. Should be doable if I can stay on task, I am ready to have this thing on the road.

Last night I got the motor mounts rebuilt with polyurethane inserts, my press made it easy. I used 3/16 aluminum rivets instead of the included zip ties for reassembly, keeps it tight until the bolts to the frame are installed. The reassembled clamshells are about a tenth of a pound heavier than they were with the rubber inserts.

I ordered some cross linked polyethylene foam and high temperature acrylic tape to do the inside firewall insulation. I need to go ahead and get the exterior firewall insulation done as that will be a holdup for dropping the new engine in. Recent rains have kept me from doing that outside so it’s about time to roll the patient back into the operating room.

I have been collecting lots of electrical supplies, I plan to do a combination of reusing some of the stock wiring but some things will be added (i.e. electric fans), replaced (i.e. fuse box to RFRM), or redesigned (i.e. glow plug controller to relays). Ordered parts to basically replace the entire AC system, going from dual zone to single zone and I am unsure of the condition of the stock pieces with this much age on them. Need to have the AC working well in this thing, but hope adding insulation will limit the need to run it.

[deejaaa]

heard of lots of vibrations using poly. most switched back to rubber.

[aardvarcus]

Deejaaa,

I have heard mixed opinions on the vibrations, I think everyone agrees that it will vibrate more but how much is too much is probably a preference thing. I never cared for how much the engine/transmission in my 1991 was able to move and twist with the rubber mounts (you could watch the shifter move back and forth with throttle inputs), I am willing to sacrifice a bit of comfort if it will keep the powertrain held reasonably still. Granted those mounts were probably shot, but I have heard mixed reviews of the quality of replacement motor mounts. I guess I will quickly find out, not the end of the world if I have to switch to rubber mounts.

Did you get your 1993 taken care of, I know you had posted a few months back about a noise under the valve covers?

[deejaaa]

there is still a noise there. just not sure what it is. it runs good although my TC slips a little with too much throttle input. i need to check my HB and pulley to rule that out.

[oil pan 4]

After market replacement rubber motor mounts would last about a year on my non turbo 6.2L.
I put poly motor mounts in back around 2008, and have been running a twin turbo 6.5 since 2012.

[aardvarcus]

So I have gotten some progress made on the Suburban.

I got the outside firewall insulation cut and installed, made a paper template and transferred it to the insulation. Took some time to turn the 3d shape of the non flat portions of the firewall into 2d sections I could cut out and fold/fit up. Taped all the raw edges of the insulation with seaming tape to seal it up. In addition to the firewall, I ran the same insulation down the first four feet of the underbody/transmission tunnel using rivets and washers to attach.

Got the exhaust manifolds, engine mounts, and other odds and ends on the optimizer engine, and got it installed in the engine bay. Got the clutch and other parts installed, and bolted the NV4500 transmission up. Had to replace the input seal on the transfer case, got that completed so it is ready to go now.

I need to figure out all the details for the wiring and a few other odds and ends and the Suburban will be ready for a test drive.

[deejaaa]

make sure you get a start up video and a driving video. making good progress.

[aardvarcus]

Had a bit of time yesterday, so I got the exhaust separated between the soot trap and the muffler, that was a chore and a half to get them to separate. I will have to cut the existing middle pipe down and weld the new exhaust piece that I have to the front of it.

After getting that out of the way, I bolted my transfer case in. Those are always a bit of a chore due to the cross members that get in the way and the general awkwardness of trying to position it, but I was able to get it in position and bolted on.

Anyway some pictures.