1997 Sunfire 4 spd automatic repair & modding

[2000mc]

when youre eyeballin the filler neck, check that the surface the seal on the gas cap sets against is rust free

[Daox]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'll be sure to check for those things.

Is there any known good way to check for evap leaks? I know they have a smoke test, but I don't have that equipment. I was thinking something like pressurizing the tank through the filler neck and hearing / a wet hand to feel around for small leaks?

[2000mc]

Without actually smoke testing it, I don't think you'll turn up more than a good visual inspection would. If you don't see anything, the vent valve is always a good suspect, you could remove it, jumper power to it and see if you can blow through it. Same could be done with the purge valve, but they're less common, and typically set a code for "flow during non purge" or something like that, but I've seen them set a small leak code too
Another easy check, look at the seal on the gas cap, I've seen some original caps on vehicles newer than yours where there were big chunks gone from the seal due to cracking

[Daox]

So, lets start off with my mistake... I found out this weekend that I forgot momentarily how to count. I have the 4 speed, not the 3 speed. This weekend, when I went to change the transmission pan gasket (and filter, and fluid), I noticed my filter wouldn't fit. I called up the parts store and they said the '12 bolt' tranny pan is the 4 speed. I said, sure, I'll try it figuring their info was wrong. So, I go there, the filter looks right and I buy it and button the trans back up. I take the car to work today and sure enough, I count 1... 2... 3... hey, 4! Haha, I feel dumb, but it at least makes sense why I couldn't find the 3 speed TCC lockup wire now! But, it shifts quicker and smoother now with the fluid change.

Sadly, when I did the tranny fluid change, I noticed my front main seal is leaking... *sigh*

I also took some time to go over some other nagging issues on the car. First up was the e-brake needs to be adjusted (tightened up). When I lost brakes, it was of virtually no use because it was so loose. I definitely want to remedy this. However, I haven't yet been able to find the adjustment for it. I read online that its supposed to be near the rear brakes, yet I was not able to find anything. I now assume its inside by the e-brake lever. Can anyone verify the location of the adjustment?

Next up, my low coolant level sensor has been finicky. It would intermittently go on and off even with a full coolant level. I replaced it this weekend with a new sensor only to have the light stay on constantly now. I know that if I disconnect the wires going to the sensor, the light goes off. So, that means its not a wiring problem. However, I have no idea what is going on here. I don't even know how the sensor works. It doesn't have a float on it like I thought it would. Here is a picture of it below. It is inserted into the bottom of the coolant reservoir tank. I'm a bit baffled.




The last thing I worked on was the windshield wiper stalk assembly. When I go over hard bumps, the lever falls down enough to turn the windshield wipers on. Its pretty annoying. I disassembled and removed the stalk assembly. There doesn't appear to be any way to just fix it, its just worn out. So, I'll probably look for one of these at a junk yard or ebay if the're cheap enough. I am growing tired of spending on the car.

Last, but not least, I took some pictures of the interesting cooling setup on the Sunfire. The car comes stock with a full grill block. All of the cooling air comes from under the front bumper. Here are a few shots that show the interesting setup.

These are the only 'grill' openings on the front of the car:




Here is a shot under the front bumper:




And here is another shot a bit farther back showing more of the radiator. It looks like the front air dam is supposed to catch the air and push it up and through the radiator.





So, it now makes sense why the car warms up so stinking fast (on top of not being real efficient). It also makes sense why it gets so warm at low speeds too.

[Daox]

Just ebayed a new wiper switch for $12.75. That will be a welcomed fix.

[backpacker3]

Well the 4 speed huh? Lol. I wonder if the placebo effect will kick in and it'll start seeming better than your "3 speed".

[Daox]

Haha, I doubt it. The 4 speed is rated 1 mpg better in city and highway than the 3 speed. The bonus is that it is electronically controlled, so I may be able to take more control of the transmission...

[Xist]

Originally Posted by Daox

Just ebayed a new wiper switch for $12.75. That will be a welcomed fix.

I need to do this! It is now buried in my to-do list!

[Daox]

I talked to a co-worker / cavalier expert at work today. He said the e-brake adjustment is in the car (where it has been on every car I've ever worked on). I'm not sure why the jbody guys said it was outside. They don't seem to be the most knowledgeable bunch sadly.

Also, I was reading about the low coolant level sensor. Apparently it takes some time for the light to go out. Well, last night on the way home from work it went out. So, it seems like the new sensor is working. It just seems odd that it takes that long to go out.

So, most of the nagging issues will soon be dealt with on the car. The only remaining issues is the small evap leak which I'll fix. The other issue is that the passenger door can not be locked/unlocked with the key from the outside. I'm not sure I'll bother fixing that. The car door is damaged, and I'm guessing that binds something with the lock.

[ecomodded]

The door needs to be dealt with for a faster sale , a replacement door would solve the problems.

Possible a door can be had for cheap from a backyard beater / parts car.

If you are done with putting money in the car you could remove the door panel to inspect the lock linkage for binding , and unbind it if need be.
I also wonder if its the lock itself. I have had both locks seize on my beetle.