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Old 12-30-2019, 09:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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"for cheap" is relative, but a good source is McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com. I used their P/N 6000K1 belt for my air dam: https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...dam-34650.html.

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Old 12-30-2019, 11:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmguy64 View Post
Where is the best place to order conveyor belt material for cheap?
I got mine from the local Tractor Supply store, but last time I checked they changed up what they were carrying to pre-cut lengths of limited depths.

Maybe but now they have changed back to the larger sizes and by the foot lengths.

Was not "cheap" but has lasted 7 years and still going strong (no fuss, no worries).
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Lowering helps in terms of stability. But cuts wheel travel.

Lowering helps in terms of crosswind-handling.

The second of those can be addressed with a skirt. The first means it may take less to upset straight-ahead travel.
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lowering [done right] helps in terms of stability. But cuts wheel travel.
The various suspension types have a 'roll center'. It can vary from the ground to at least the axle centerline. Were it higher, the vehicle would lean like a motorcycle (desirable but complicated).

Optimal is to have a line between the front and rear roll centers be as level as possible.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 02-26-2020, 11:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I have a 1998 Ranger XLT (first year for coil-spring front, twin I-beam is 1997-earlier) 2WD supercab with the same drivetrain: 2.5 Lima 4, 5 speed manual, 3.73 7.5” rear. My aero improvement attentions are currently focused on the huge, blocky commercial cap on the bed, but I do want to clean up the front some more after that. An air dam is high on that list, as my truck has a front receiver hitch that eliminated the factory dam. I’m thinking about a 2” drop using the DJM control arms with the stock springs. An aftermarket flipped rear leaf shackle/hanger combo can buy you a bit of drop at modest cost.

My truck hasn’t always had that (or any) cap on it. Best MPG thus far was 27.28 (open bed, empty), worst was 18.18 (commercial cap with roof rack, medium load, towing a trailer). I use it to haul, tote, and occasionally tow, no dedicated data-collecting runs, so take what you will from that.

My best MPG in a Lima 4 Ranger (this is #3 for me) was 30 in a 1996 zero-option (no AC, radio delete, bench seat rubber mat) 2.3 5M short cab/short bed with a cab-height Snugtop fiberglass cap.
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Old 02-27-2020, 01:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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The mods can split off a new thread if you like.
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Old 02-29-2020, 12:19 PM   #18 (permalink)
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98 Ranger

All you listed sounds good.Soften the leading edges of the bed box as much as you can.We know from Cambridge University of one vehicle (the Audi A2 ) which did not respond to lowering.However,the Gale Banks racing team used lowering of the 1989 GMC S-15 to get it down to Cd 0.315,from Cd 0.475.I suspect that there's a high probability that the drop will help you.

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