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Old 05-24-2019, 05:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thr air dam blocking air is more aerodynamic than letting the air flow under the vehicle.

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Old 05-24-2019, 09:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
Do yourself a favor: buy a small commuter car. Even if you can achieve 35 mpg in your suburban, do you really want to wear it out running down the highway all the time, quite possibly alone. 4X4's have far more and more expensive maintenance. Just replacing the tires once on that thing will get you a pretty good start on a really good economy car.
I would love to buy a 2010 or newer Prius but I am budgeting super hard and will need my Suburban to build my house, which is what I am saving for.
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Old 05-24-2019, 09:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
Don't remove the air dam.
Lower it and keep the air dam.
Would the air dam do more good than a flat belly and lowering it so the car is at the height that the air dam went to?? The underside is super gross aerodynamically and I feel like the dam can't be doing that much and a flat belly would do much more for the mpg than anything else.

Should I do a flat belly, lower it and keep the dam?
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Old 05-24-2019, 09:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson View Post
Also, keep an eye on your oil. The 5.3s like to burn oil when they are on 4-cyl mode
I am almost to 200k on this old Suburban and it has been using about 1.5 quarts between oil changes since new. I think these 5.3's just kinda use oil lol
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Old 05-25-2019, 02:28 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Enviro View Post
So I am starting to commute about 60 miles per day which 50-55 of those miles are freeway. I am looking to get some feedback on the aero mods I am planning and which I should do first and help calculating the potential end result. I would like to get to 35mpg at 55mph which is more possible than you may think as this comes with the engine that can switch to v4 mode deactivating the other 4 cylinders.

100% stock I get about 25 mpg on the freeway but it gets in the 30's in v4 mode and I average 18.6 mpg combined city/hwy.

Mods I have already done
  1. I removed the roof rack which moved my freeway mpg to about 26 mpg hwy at 55 mph. So +1 mpg.
I also noticed that the car was in v4 mode more often than before.

Here are the removal mods I have planned
  1. Lower air dam is 78” long and 4” tall making it 2.17 SQ FT
  2. The side mirrors are each about 1 SQ FT so together they are 2 SQ FT
  3. Roof rack is 6' x 2" which is about 1 SQ FT. (Done)

Altogether this will be about 5 SQ FT of reduced frontal area.

Other Mods

Now removing the front air dam is obviously going to expose the turbulent underside of the car and expose the tires so I have a 4" lowering kit in mind effectively putting it at the same height as before.

I also have a coroplast flat bottom planned and I will replace the side mirrors with rearview cameras and 3d print the housing designed like an airfoil.

Am I missing anything and what do you think the outcome will be?


and you can get off the shelf parts:

Tahoe Hybrid Aero.. mod might be in order...

tahoe hybrid front end bumper
tahoe hybrid hood (light weight)
tahoe hybrid tailgate (light weight)(converts the rear end to Square mod)
tahoe hybrid tail lights (converts the rear end to Square mod)
tahoe hybrid D-pliller (converts the rear end to Square mod)
tahoe hybrid bumper (converts the rear end to Square mod)
tahoe hybrid rims (light weigh aero rims)
HIGHWAY Differential MOD with 3.08 gear ratio. in the rear

this will reduce the drag from 0.367 to 0.34..

the air dam reduces drag from under the suv..


on my tahoe hybrid it was cheaper buy it then try and mod something else

you can find a used one for about 10k with 90k miles..


Super Hypermiling it I'm seeing upwards 40MPG in the city and 28MPG on the highway at 59MPH I don't recommend 55MPH if you have the 6 speed you will want to do at lest 59MPH for the best gear.. ALSO you can do the HIGHWAY differential MOD with 3.08 gear ratio.

I go slowly to 30mph in EV mode (after 30mph the engine is forced on)and go straight to 41MPH =41MPG 4 banger mode.. (speed limit is 40)




If I tail gate a 18wheeler with a Trailer Tail I see upwards..
of 65MPG.. @ 70 MPH (that is how fast they are going) it stays in 4 Banger Mode

ALSO BTW I keeping a distance of about 20-25 feet (being too close does not improve the mpg nor do the 18wheelers without the trailer tail) it's not worth getting killed being 2-3 feet from the 18Wheeler trailer WITHOUT trailer tail
just to get 3-4mpg more.




with the trailer tail you can be a comfortable 20-30 feet away and get great MPG benefits with but with a EXIT plan



the square mod is the important one it's what they used on the 2015+ model to help with the mpg slightly..



those mods will be pretty expensive unless you can find a hybrid at a junk yard...

I suggest just getting the Hybrid Bumper with it's XL air dam... that will be your cheapest upgrade.. you will lose your fog lamps and hooks . just a FYI when you drop it the air dam will be 2 to 2-1/2 inches off the ground..

Last edited by Tahoe_Hybrid; 05-25-2019 at 05:10 AM..
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Old 05-25-2019, 12:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enviro View Post
I am almost to 200k on this old Suburban and it has been using about 1.5 quarts between oil changes since new. I think these 5.3's just kinda use oil lol
Most vehicles with cylinder deactivation tend to burn oil.
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Old 05-25-2019, 03:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpg_numbers_guy View Post
Most vehicles with cylinder deactivation tend to burn oil.
This is something I had no idea of. What happens?

Do the cylinders that aren't firing cool down while being supplied oil, let more oil by and then burn it when they're reactivated?
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Old 05-25-2019, 03:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enviro View Post
I would love to buy a 2010 or newer Prius but I am budgeting super hard and will need my Suburban to build my house, which is what I am saving for.
What numbers have you calculated for using your Suburban as a daily driver vs buying a commuter car?
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If you want to lower it then lower it.
Air dams versus belly pans would appear that belly pans are slightly better for substantially far more work, materials and time. Plus if you put a good belly pan on there it might boil the gas in the fuel tank.
The air dam gives the most benefit for the least time and materials with the least undesirable side effects.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 05-25-2019, 08:40 PM   #20 (permalink)
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To get where you really want to be will take air bags.


1994 Chevy Suburban on Air Suspension - Gauge Magazine

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