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Old 08-05-2015, 02:20 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Great car and great mods. Wish my VX hadn't deteriorated so much, MN winters take quite a toll.

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Old 09-07-2015, 11:24 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The donkey CRX View Post
I have installed all LED lights on the White VX including the headlights. This has lowered my amp draw from 12.5 amps to 6.5 amps for all lights.
Just curious, what kind of LED light do you use for the headlights? Are you happy with the output during night driving?
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:06 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Hi imawakenow, yes I am pleased with the brightness of these LED headlights. They are model number 9003/H4 from Siriusled.net. They are 3200 lumens per blub and are about 50% brighter than the original halogen H4 blubs. They also have a much whiter color, which I like. We paid $110 for each set. They do have more "scattered" light than the old H4's, but not enough to have any oncoming traffic show displeasure by flashing their bright lights. I did have to adjust the original Honda Civic headlights when I installed the new LED bulbs.

We have bought 3 sets of these headlight bulbs and of the 6, we did have one failure after about 3 months of use. Sirius did replace the defective bulb under warrantee. They can only be contacted by e-mail, but did get back to me after 2 e-mails.

I checked their site today and the bulbs we bought are 4th generation, but now they have a 5th and 6th generation. Not sure how much better the newer blubs may be.

When I bought these LED bulbs about a year ago, I felt I was still on the "bleeding edge" of this new technology, but overall I feel these bulbs are defiantly an improvement over the halogen with much less amp draw.
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Old 09-08-2015, 01:55 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Long term fuel trim can easily compensate for the lower voltage. Many people use alternator deletes to improve fuel economy. Not that boosting voltage back up is a bad thing, there have been tests shown that say that it does improve fuel economy as well (as long as it doesn't have to come from the alternator).
I don't nesesarily agree with that first statement but that's okay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The donkey CRX View Post
Thanks for your comment. What should I be looking for to know if the injectors are not performing correctly?

So far on my 54 mile commute, the lowest voltage I have seen is 12.4. This is when I am going to the shop early in the morning and burn the headlights the entire trip. I know the Honda ELD allows the voltage to drop to 12.5 when the amp draw is lower than 10 amps, so I was assuming that 12.4 volts would not be too harmful to the car.

I installed a high quality fuel pressure gauge on my 92 RED VX prior to using the alternator delete on it to see if it would change the fuel pressure as the voltage dropped during my commute. I have never seen any changes in the pressure as the voltage dropped from 12.9 to as low as 12.2 on my red VX. The pressure always fluctuates based on throttle position from 30 psi at off throttle to as high as 42 psi at WOT.

With only the engine running and no accessories, I am drawing about 8 amps. As I get over 55 MPH, the amp draw increases to a little over 9 amps and never increases from there.

I have installed all LED lights on the White VX including the headlights. This has lowered my amp draw from 12.5 amps to 6.5 amps for all lights.

This means that on my regular commute of 54 miles ( 1 hour and 20 minutes) I use about 12 amps hours with no lights on and about 20 amp hours with the headlights on the entire trip. I am only using about 20% of the capacity of the 100 amp hour deep cycle battery during the trip. When I get to the shop and turn off the car the battery resting voltage returns to around 12.7 volts. It takes less than 2 hours for the on-board 25 amp battery charger to bring the battery back to 100%.

I hope this will give you the information you need for you to give me your opinion of were I may be effecting the injectors. Thanks.
The first part is hard to say without a standalone system. I guess it could be figured out easily with some calc's. From what I understand and have been told from my instructor at ef101 (tuning school as well as other tuners) is that lower voltage will open and close the injectors at different depths. Thusly effect afr's, proper atomization, etc. Sorry it took so long to respond, I just received notification that there were responces.
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Old 09-24-2015, 11:57 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Donkey, I saw in your mod list that you filled in the gaps on the front of your car. Could you explain how you did that?

Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2015, 02:31 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Hi BD, I used some 3/8"X3/8" "D" shaped rubber molding I got on E-Bay to fill the gaps on the sides and front of the hood and also around the headlights.







The gap above the headlight is to allow cooling air to the ballast on the LED headlights.











Here is how it filled the gap on the sides of the hood. At first it was hard to close the hood. But after setting the car out in the sun and leaving the hood closed, it now closes just as before the installation.



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Old 09-25-2015, 05:01 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Thank you DCRX! I will be purchasing some of the molding next week on pat day
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Old 10-06-2015, 07:03 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Donkey, you wouldn't happen to have a link to the molding, do you? I have found every kind of molding but the D-shaped lol.
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Old 10-07-2015, 12:28 AM   #109 (permalink)
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157" 4M D Shape Universal Car Door Rubber Weather Seal Hollow Strip Weatherstrip | eBay

I found this on ebay, it's a little bigger but will get you in the ball park.
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Old 10-07-2015, 01:01 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Thank you iveyjh! I just ordered 26' of the stripping you posted. I should have extra just in case. Can't wait till it gets here

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