95 civic drag race car project

[onefstek]

Originally Posted by deathtrain

from the pic it looks like you got some interior you can still remove. and remover the door glass and replace it with the netting. also what class are you running in so i can look up those rules....

Most of the interior is out, whats left is required. Its a street class so we have to stay on weight of 2150lbs.

I would also get that front end lower or go get some type of chin spoiler put on like some garden edging.

Yea front will get a make over as soon as the new engine is in and the suspension height is set.

Originally Posted by jakobnev

The way they are now the TBs look like they are in the low pressure area.

I was thinking the same thing about the low pressure of the itb's. I was looking at making a scoop that will harness the air pressure from the front of the bumper.

Stefan

[Cd]

NICE results with the 'homemade' windtunnel !
Please share with us how you did this ( in a separate post of course )

I noticed the stock front end, and wanted to suggest a fiberglass front end, since you can get one with flared fenders. Right now, the wheels are sticking out in the breeze and are a major drag.



The TBs look like they stick up in the breeze. A faired snorkel would clean this up and add HP as well.

[onefstek]

I made a few flow dynamic set ups to see what it does. Here are a few results.

Stock form



chin kamm diffuser itb no scoop



kamm diffuser itb mid scoop



bumper kamm diffuser itb scoop



This stuff is cool. I can play with it all day. Same thing with my wind tunnel.

Stefan

[Tygen1]

Looks like you are on the right track. I'd agree that the ITB hole is in the wrong place. Front and center, down low on the bumper would be better place to arrange a RAM air duct. I really like your wind tunnel! I race my car a couple times every year and am amazed at how much the other guys are leaving on the table in the aero department. I got the quickest ATX ZX2 right now and would like to think all the aero mods I've done is one reason why. You can learn a great deal here about aero.

You should consider the front air dam along with your belly pan. I'd also try to get those front tires shrouded and get moon eye disks on the front wheels and make some rear wheel skirts.

[deathtrain]

dude put a boat tail on it.....

but with the ITB i would fill in the hole and put an Subaru STi scoop on it. its not to big.

[onefstek]

Originally Posted by deathtrain

dude put a boat tail on it.....

but with the ITB i would fill in the hole and put an Subaru STi scoop on it. its not to big.

Boat tail idea is no go. I can't extend more than 12" behind the rear of the car.

The subaru scoop is a no go either, its been tried and doesn't work. Its been tried and it slows down the car due to air being limited by the dead area.

Best I could do for it is most likely this :



Stefan

[Sven7]

Make sure you put a ground plane in there! Right now it's acting as if the car's floating in air. (See how the airflow is going outside the frame? Yeah. Also, try taking the wheels out. After all, the rest of the drawing is the centerline and there are no tires in the center of your car.

Looking good. I'll be watching this project.

[onefstek]

Originally Posted by Sven7

Make sure you put a ground plane in there! Right now it's acting as if the car's floating in air. (See how the airflow is going outside the frame? Yeah. Also, try taking the wheels out. After all, the rest of the drawing is the centerline and there are no tires in the center of your car.

Looking good. I'll be watching this project.

Just read the other post that said to put a ground. I made a new car all black and put a ground.

Stefan

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by onefstek

Boat tail idea is no go. I can't extend more than 12" behind the rear of the car.

The subaru scoop is a no go either, its been tried and doesn't work. Its been tried and it slows down the car due to air being limited by the dead area.

Best I could do for it is most likely this :



Stefan

Can you gang all the throttle body inlets into a common inlet plenum and run that into a home made Pro Stock style scoop.These have the lowest drag and are high enough to get up out of the boundary layer.It would probably project a bit ahead of the nose.Is that a rulebook breaker?

[onefstek]

These are the rules I have to follow.

ALL MOTOR PRO presented by Competition Clutch

PAYOUTS - $700 - Must have 4 qualifiers for full payout. Less than four qualifiers will receive half the normal payout. Qualifiers must run 13.99 and faster.

Winner - $500
R/U - $200
Semi 1 - $50 - if enough cars for a Quick 8
Semi 1 - $50 - if enough cars for a Quick 8

CLASS SUMMARY
Heads-Up, Pro-tree (.400) class for natuarally aspirated 4/6 cylinder or rotary oem frame import/sport compact vehicles. No restrictions on exhaust. Three qualifying passes permitted.

BODY
Import or domestic compact car bodies allowed. Lexan windows allowed. One piece front ends prohibited. Tail lights and head lights required (one may be removed for induction purposes)

INTERIOR
Doors must open and close from inside and outside the vehicle. No center drive configurations. Dash must remain.

CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION
All vehicles must retain factory chassis. Vehicles must maintain stock drive configuration. Wheelie bars and straight axles prohibited.

ENGINE
Import vehicles may run 4 and 6 cylinder motors, as well as rotary motors. Domestic manufactured vehicles are limited to 4 cylinder engines. Engine manufacture must match chassis manufacture.

POWER ADDERS
No power adders allowed. Power adders include turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. All nitrous components prohibited even if bottle is not present.

DRIVETRAIN AND TRANSMISSION
FWD or RWD allowed. Stock driveline configuration must remain. Any transmission allowed.

EXHAUST
Any type of exhaust allowed.

TIRES
Any DOT approved tires. Slicks limited to 24.5 x 9.5 for FWD and 26.0 x 10.5 for RWD.


Stefan