Acura TSX (Euro Honda Accord) Engine Kill Switch

[redpoint5]

I have a 2006 Acura TSX (Euro Honda Accord) and am finally getting serious about installing an engine kill switch. This is the guide I'm using:

Engine kill switch - EcoModder

1. Start the car.
2. If you can find a camshaft sensor in your car, unplug that. If engine dies, skip next step.
3. If you can find a hall-sensor in your car (Near distributor), unplug that. If engine dies, good.
4. Cut the signal wire from that connector, and pull it to cabin with two-wire cable, and insert NC switch(Normal Closed).

If you can't find neither of these, follow this:

Look up your car's wiring schematics and find the fuel injector signal wire. Cut this wire and insert a NC (normal closed) relay. Wire up a switch within easy reach that will open the relay. This cuts power to the fuel injectors and the engine dies.
Things to watch out for: 1. Cut the wire in a place that you can reattach if needed. 2. Use barrel type connectors on the wire you snip so that you can reattach quickly if needed. 3. Watch out for error codes, you should not get any if you snip the right wire.

I have found that unplugging the CKP (crankshaft position sensor) while the engine was at idle caused it to stumble, almost die, and then recover. A CEL was thrown and a message popped up saying "check emission system". The camshaft position sensor is not going to work for killing this engine, and likely any late model Honda.

My question is, how does the car know when to time the ignition if it doesn't know where the crankshaft is in its rotation? I'm assuming the distributor is mechanically timed with the engine, and the car just defaults to standard ignition maps?

Anyhow, my next step is to pull a fuel injector fuse and see if this kills the engine without throwing codes or causing other problems.

[jedi_sol]

Cutting the pgmfi ground wire works well as a kill switch for Hondas

[bhazard]

An 06 Acura still runs a distributor?

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by bhazard

An 06 Acura still runs a distributor?

Shows my knowledge of modern ignition systems. I know it doesn't have a rotor and cap, but I figured there must be something mechanical that monitors engine rotation. The ignition timing is continually varied based on load and RPM, so I know spark isn't mechanically triggered.

[Cobb]

The metrompg guy suggested in a crz thread to use an add a circuit fuse and rig it to a switch replace the ignition fuse with it so you break the circuit to kill the engine.

On the Insight forum they say the yellow black wires to the injectors are the best to interrupt.

[jimhs]

If you kill the ignition coil,is it possible the fuel injectors to still working
And fload the engine while eocing???

[Cobb]

Thats my thought and I questioned it, but he didnt answer. He said the other guy Cosgrove(SP?) who got over 100 mpg from a crz did that very hack.

Originally Posted by jimhs

If you kill the ignition coil,is it possible the fuel injectors to still working
And fload the engine while eocing???

[j12piprius]

Originally Posted by jimhs

If you kill the ignition coil,is it possible the fuel injectors to still working
And flood the engine while eocing???

If that is possible, where would the fuel go?

[Cobb]

Part will go into the crank case and remove the oil film from the cylinder walls. Another part will go out the exhaust.

We use to put a kill switch on the ignition to make a on demand back fire/flame thrower. Rev the engine, push the button to kill the ignition, then before the engine spins too slow to refire release the button. BOOM.

[Xist]

Cobb, was that how you responded to tailgaters?