aero help

[mekanic]

I know some up you won't know where to start with so many ideas.
I don't know much about it at all.
here is a pic

I am thinking about a air dam and lowering the truck slightly (3 inches??)

It will be towing this

The trailer is quite narrow and short (6.5 X14 feet long) and i am thinking the Truck will be more aero towing the trailer and jeep than without it.

what say you all on this??

[larrybuck]

I think it'll be a lot of work to lower that big truck, even if you know how to do it all yourself.
I'd definently go w an airdam, but you REALLY NEED BAD to put an aero bubble on the front of that box. If you want to retain those running lights up there also, that makes the bubble smaller and more likely to be a custom job.
Find whoever makes those bubbles, get some basic measurements in order. For this small an app., you may have to build it yourself.

I'm thinking if you can contact a trailer manufacturor like Wells Fargo, or even some travel trailer factories, they might be able to hook you up.

Immediately; massive height wise skirts for under the sides of the box come to mind; you need to cut off all that open space.

I don't know how far or often you plan on driving w this rig; but it would seem that a diesel PU of some kind would be much more mpg. efficient!!???/

[moorecomp]

You will want to follow this thread as it is similar:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ome-17407.html

[mekanic]

Originally Posted by larrybuck

I think it'll be a lot of work to lower that big truck, even if you know how to do it all yourself.
I'd definently go w an airdam, but you REALLY NEED BAD to put an aero bubble on the front of that box. If you want to retain those running lights up there also, that makes the bubble smaller and more likely to be a custom job.
Find whoever makes those bubbles, get some basic measurements in order. For this small an app., you may have to build it yourself.

I'm thinking if you can contact a trailer manufacturor like Wells Fargo, or even some travel trailer factories, they might be able to hook you up.

Immediately; massive height wise skirts for under the sides of the box come to mind; you need to cut off all that open space.

I don't know how far or often you plan on driving w this rig; but it would seem that a diesel PU of some kind would be much more mpg. efficient!!???/

Well this truck won't be driven all that much as far as miles per year. in about 8 weeks i'll be leaving southern Ohio on my yearly vacation trip to western Colorado.
This truck has the small (190HP)5.9L cummins diesel, a 6 speed manual trans and it now has 3.70 gears. (it had 5.29s till 3 weeks ago)
it weighs 13,100 nothing close to what it looks like.
I'll only have about $8,K in this rig. I would have a diesel pickup but I can't figure out how to fit a queen size bed, fridge, microwave, and all my tools and spar jeep parts in it.
I am planning on side skirts With a bottom on them but i think that is going to be a over the winter project.
lowering will be a piece of cake. for the rear Fri I'm getting new tires that will lower it 2.5 to 3 inches just with that alone!! (low pro truck tires)
The dront to make it level there are 2.5 inch blocks inbetween the axle and springs. The frount axle is rated at 10K and has 10 leafs. it only weighs 5500 on the front so I could take a couple of leafs out if I want to.

More info on the truck found here
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=64614

[larrybuck]

I'm happy to hear about the gear ratio change, and the lower tires will certainly help. I appreciate your energy toward this project!

I'm glad you already have a diesel in there.

What are some baseline mpg highway figures so far alone, and w your trailer setup??

It will be interesting to scope your improvements! Enjoy!

[trooper Tdiesel]

are you saying the truck was original with a diesel and 5.29 gears

most of the time those 6 speeds are direct drive as well, so that truck would have been all out pegd rpm wize, at some where "around" 53/63 mph peg out speed
not good for mpg in flat land!


if you have on board air and tools in the truck
taking the wheels/tires off the jeep "after its on the trailer" would lower the air drag "for the long drive". the jeep would drop nearly 9"/12"



if the truck has 24.5 rims you could go to 22.5 rims with lower profile tires to make space to lower the truck a little, possibly go to 19.5 rims but i don't know if it would clear the brake drums. as to if it whould make 3" of clearence for lowering the rig maybe, maybe not
the gearing change would more than make up for the shorter tires.
but as stated realer thats a lot of work/cost to lower it.

maybe if theres a spacer in-between the box and the frame rail it would be better to lower the box closer to the frame, than try and lower the leaf springs???




.

[trooper Tdiesel]

as to the use of a big truck as an RV

i would advise putting NOT FOR HIRE on the two front doors, that could help keep you from getting pulled over.

your luky in the RV registration area, in OR your "required" to have a toilet to regester as a RV

[mekanic]

Yes the truck had 5.29s under it. it was all done at 60MPH. the 5.9 was a screamin at that speed. It has 22.5 wheels now and the drums are within a 1/4 inch from the wheel so I can't go to 19.5s. The 22.5s that are on it now are just over 41 inches tall the new ones are 36.5 tall.
Its almost too tall with the 3.70 gears and the old taller tires at the moment.
I'm the one that installed box on it, I rippeed the board down to 3/4 that go inbetween the frame and box. they compressed down to about 1/2 inch.
Instead of not for hire I'm gonna put

"Off
Roading
Vacactions"

on the back. I even thought about using red as the colors for R and V

The requirements for RV conversion are simplein ohio.
A place to sleep (bed), place to store cold food (fridge or cooler),
a place to warm food(range or oven),
A place to eat food (Table and chairs)
That is IT!! nothing more!! however these item mush be permantly attached to the vehicle. and you can't use the vehile for commerical use.
One more little thing Ohio say a RV conversion can't have a 5th wheel.
So many of them have gooseneck hitches instead.

Today before I went to work I bolted on my extra 50 gallon fuel tank.

[chris_kraft3]

This looks like it is going to be a good thread. Did you ever have a baseline like one guy said above?

[Frank Lee]

I'm going to disagree with Larry about how critical a bubble is. The box already has decently generous radii on the leading edges so it should be OK. Hucho says any radius larger than what it takes to promote attached flow is not necessary.

Your lowering plans sound good- just be sure to have a skosh of nose-down rake when it's all said and done. That is better aero than level or nose-up.

On a truck of this nature functionality must remain the top priority, but if you can get away with it, downsizing the mirrors should help. I would look at hanging little automotive mirrors down from the box and eliminate all that existing mirror framework. The stock mirrors make tons of noisy turbulence and so the cabin could be quieter too- that'd be nice.

Relocate the blinkers off the front fenders flush into the front somewhere.

Perhaps a rubber gap seal tween front bumper and hood would help, as would blocking off the bumper holes.

Do not worry about headlight covers. Just don't.

Some guys here have made partial front wheelwell fairings/skirts. Something like that would probably be a good thing to have on this truck.

Same goes for a partial kamm tail extension.

Fill in behind the fuel tank(s) and rear wheels with skirts like are seen now on semi trailers.