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Old 10-17-2011, 06:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by xx_ED_xx View Post
Hi,
I m new to this forum and after reading some interesting threads. I decided to pose some questions and see if I am on the right track. I plan on racing the truck in the maxton mile and maybe a few other events. From what I can tell these items will help benefit me.

Some kind of Aero cover for the bed.
A belly pan
Blocking out any air openings in the front, grille etc
The truck is already lower I plan to go lower.
I replaced the mirrors with much smaller ones.
I may modify the hood to angle up towards the wind shield
Rear diffusers I am wondering about
Cover the rear wheel well openings

The truck currently has the biggest production motor in it. 8.1
It is a 1500 standard cab short bed which I now understand affects it
Any other suggestions because I think I am on the right track?
xx,just now catching up at your thread,thanks for the link.
If you're racing,your weight is going to be a lot more critical than for the rest of us.
Newton's F=MA will have to supremely respected.
*GM's patented 1/2-tonneau went 211 mph at Bonneville on a GMC S-15,it could help you.
*The pan will help and would allow the diffuser,which will help even more.Again,weight is the issue.
*Grille-blocking is good,but you'll be under wide open throttle a long time,so temps are critical.Be careful not to melt all that iron.
* Lowering is good.Drop in the weeds if you can and tow it to and from the track.
*Closing in any gaps will reduce HP-robbing turbulence.
* I would recommend you modify the airdam as you have discussed,getting rid of the rear bias,pushing the lip forward to get air around and not under.
*Tufting of the sides will tell you if the rear skirts are likely to work.I suspect they will,but check.
*I can't tell you anything about the hood blister.I did mine 'cause I can't spring for a $3,000 GTP windshield yet.If you're going to go 160mph+,you might want to skip this one.It could aggravate lift.'Don't know.Be safe!!!!!!!!
*If you have a thermo-clutch fan,that may suffice.It should completely unload above 40-mph unless your grille-block is too radical.Watch your gauges!
*You're approaching drag-chute velocities,make sure that your brakes are as powerful as that 8.1-liter!

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Old 10-17-2011, 07:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yes as of right now I have 15 inch front rotors and 14 inch rears. 6 piston z06 c6 corvette front pistons and matching 4 piston rears. I am riding myself of the vacuum assist brakes and putting hydroboost in. I think I may block the upper part of the grille and leave the lower part open for radiator flow. the pcm controls the electric fans and shuts them off above 45 mph.

I am thinking of putting a cowl hood on even though i need most of my clearence in the front of the engine not the rear.

I was also curious i was reading about the new fords how they added an extension to the top of the cab to get the air to flow over the bed and past the tailgate also they added some kind of wing to the tailgate which they said helped.

I also was reading about the srt 10 truck spoiler and supposedly it is beneficial as well. luckily those are removed very easily.

I also ordered my factory chin spoiler today which I am sure will help
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'd stay with the vacuum booster as it looses little at speed, and when you back off (which I assume you would if needing brakes) the vacuum will be at it's highest. Hydro-boost uses power-steering pump pressure ( at least the old ones did). I'd ditch the power steering and go manual to save weight and power losses. For aero, look at the NASCAR truck series for the super speedways, though they are big into downforce and Rule regulated additions.
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Another quick thought, I don't know what the rules are, but if extensive body mods are allowed, take the body bushings out for the cab and doghouse. If the rules allow, drop the cab as much as possible by cutting the floor out and raising it inside the cab. Or chop the top...LOTS of WORK! What motor mods are allowed, sounds like the truck in the video was turbo'd. Get high pressure air from the windshield wiper area for the intake, if running NA.
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I would love to find a manual steering rack for my truck but they dont make one.

I am putting a turbo on it soon so definitely need the hydro brakes.

I think the closest thing i have found is the gale banks diesel gmc truck.

As far as a truck to go off of.




















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Old 10-17-2011, 08:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I met Gale Banks in 1975, and he is the man for BIG horsepower! That truck is TU! For straight line speed there are a lot of things I'd do to it. Lower the cab as much as possible to negate the "pick-up bed effect", narrow the rear axle to keep the tires inside of the Stock fenders, take the air for the turbo from the windshield wiper high pressure area, move the batteries and radiator to the bed for traction, put a cover on the bed and only enough spoiler-wing for stability ( see Porsche 917). No front fender flares, round the front bumper and spoiler as much as possible (looking down from above). Set up an electric pump for the hydro-boost with extra battery and an alternator cutoff while on a run.
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Old 10-18-2011, 06:03 AM   #18 (permalink)
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im sure this car gets 4mpg! lol
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:53 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Actually, I'd be surprised if it wasn't capably of 20-30 mpg if driven conservatively, these are very efficient running diesel engines.
For aero on the mile course, look at the Gale Banks drag S-10, I wouldn't be surprised if it hasn't seen a wind-tunnel.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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put it this way, it is only going to see the race track and what's this? A twin turbo V-8 with tons of HP? I wanna see proof. lol

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