Affordable way to lower your vehicle - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

Nate · 05-01-2009, 01:42 AM

Be wary this is a rather long post, but anyone looking to save $700 on an ecomod you'll be glad you read it.

Under the 65+ efficiency mods, right height reduction is listed as being rather costly, gaining a rating of 3/4 $ signs. I'm assuming they mean lowering springs/coilovers.

During my ownership of a 1993 Mazda 626 (manual transmission, 2.0L DOHC 4 cyl), I reduced the ride height to help improve handling and aerodynamics, plus I wanted to close the especially ugly rear wheel well gap. I did this with spring clamps, a cheap way (just under 30 bucks) to lower almost any vehicle.

Note that spring clamps do not improve handling nearly as much as coil overs do for people looking for performance grade handling, however, they definitely serve the purpose of helping out with fuel efficiency. Spring clamps are a bit tedious to install, but they don't require any special mechanical knowledge, and can be removed at any time. They can also be adjusted so you can lower only the front wheels or just the back wheels.

You can drop your car anywhere from 1/2" to 2", depending on the length of the bolts that came with the clamps and your car's shocks. I would not recommend this for a car under warranty, but as far as I know the suspension returns to normal once they are removed, and it is much safer and smarter than lowering your car the wrong way (cutting coils).

It may seem they are "too cheap to be true", but I think that only applies to people seeking sport like performance in their suspension. However, even I saw a noticeable difference in the car's handling due to the lower center of gravity, it took corners at quicker speeds in a more agile and composed manner, allowing me to avoid the brakes without swerving dangerously or screeching the tires. I also noticed a slight gain in MPG by probably an average of 2 mpg (up from 33 to 35), a result of better aerodynamics as well as the more efficient cornering.

For those who don't know what spring clamps are, this is an example of them:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/iipcache/103871.jpg

I found them for 7 bucks for a set of two at my local NAPA. You need two for each wheel so the total cost was $28 plus tax, compare to lowering springs/coilovers which can cost upwards of $700!

If you have underpaneling, and would benefit from raising the car allowing air to bleed out underneath the smooth underside, these clamps can be flipped around to raise the vehicle as well, as seen here:

http://www.bodykitsonline.co.uk/spri...ower%20img.jpg

Frank Lee · 05-01-2009, 02:01 AM

I lowered my car the wrong way several years ago, and I still like it.

Nate · 05-01-2009, 02:18 AM

I was told cutting coils was a bad idea. I've heard it can be done in a way that will not harm the suspension, but going about it wrong can lead to them breaking.

Frank Lee · 05-01-2009, 02:26 AM

There's a right and a wrong way to just about everything.

Yes, too much heat with a torch for reshaping the "seat" coil could be bad I suppose. Too much heat in the cutting operation could also be bad I suppose. Not putting a proper seating coil in probably hurts. Cutting too much off of course leads to bad things.

Musta got lucky.

Edit: Should have said "There are several right and wrong ways..." If you can use clamps in your application they're probably just fine. I looked at using clamps on my car first and decided they wouldn't fit in there, hence the cutting. But if they would have fit, I would have gone that route.

Piwoslaw · 05-01-2009, 02:27 AM

Welcome to Ecomodder.com, Nate

Spring clamps are an interesting idea, maybe something for me, since I'd like to shave a few cm's off my ride, but am not willing to pay for a new suspension job. I'll look into them.

Nate · 05-01-2009, 02:53 AM

The only problem is they are kind of a pain to put on. You may need two jacks to do this. First, you raise the car up and remove the wheel (you don't HAVE to remove the wheel but it does make things easier). Then you need to put a jackstand (preferably a low one) under the car and remove the jack.

If you have a second jack and a friend to help, its easier to leave the first jack in place, and lower the car slowly once you have the other jack underneath the spring. Then, use the jack to compress the spring, making it easier to get the clamps on.

It was a bit tedious for me and my two friends helping me out that day, it took some trial and error and we found it was easier when we put a thick wood board under the jack to make it a bit higher so we could compress the spring even more.

SVOboy · 05-01-2009, 02:58 AM

Springs clamps do work for some cars (I remember an old 50s hot rod coming into the shop I worked at with spring clamps on) but I don't they would ever work on my CRX. The coils are narrow in diameter and very close together. I was lucky enough to pick up a set of tokico illuminas and springs for 100 shipped way back when, though I would like to get some better springs and set the alignment properly one of these days.

cfg83 · 05-01-2009, 04:15 AM

Nate -

I think they are a really good way to do a car lowering A-B-A aero-test, and/or "dial-in" the ride height you are comfortable with without committing to the cost of new springs. Once happy, then you still have the option to lower the car with the more $$ stuff.

CarloSW2

wagonman76 · 05-01-2009, 01:12 PM

If installing these on front strut springs, make sure they will not hit anything at both extremes of steering travel. I ran into this on my old 6000 wagon.

Super22LL · 05-01-2009, 01:37 PM

How did this affect your alignment? I'm guessing if you lowered the front 2" it would throw you camber out. I've lowered several vehicles using aftermarket springs and spindles, but I've never used spring clamps. It soulds like a good idea, I'd suggest getting an aligment if you plan on keeping it low for a long time.