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Old 08-19-2019, 06:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Aftermarket oil pressure gauge - screw sensor to block or mount remotely?

Hi guys,

Looking to fit an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and need to fit the sensor. I can pull the idiot light pressure switch and fit the sensor directly to the block, but some searching on the Web mentions the possibility of the weight of sensor pulling the threads out of the block (different cars though). It's not much heavier than the standard pressure switch and its an M16x1.5 thread into the (aluminium) block.
I can't see it myself but it's making me think..

I could fit the sensor remotely using flex hose, but this adds cost and more joins (and potential for leaks!)

Anyone have any thoughts?

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Old 08-19-2019, 07:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nedlom View Post
Hi guys,

Looking to fit an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and need to fit the sensor. I can pull the idiot light pressure switch and fit the sensor directly to the block, but some searching on the Web mentions the possibility of the weight of sensor pulling the threads out of the block (different cars though). It's not much heavier than the standard pressure switch and its an M16x1.5 thread into the (aluminium) block.
I can't see it myself but it's making me think..

I could fit the sensor remotely using flex hose, but this adds cost and more joins (and potential for leaks!)

Anyone have any thoughts?
Well there's really only one way to find out. If the weight and design is very similar to stock, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I think the problem is when the original pressure switch and the new sensor are both mounted on a tee fitting screwed into the block. That adds a bunch of weight, plus it has more leverage. If you're just replacing the old switch with the new sensor, it shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 08-19-2019, 03:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yep, guess I've got to bite the bullet.

KSA, Stripping the threads is what scared me - don't know how I'd fix that, but maybe the other cars have smaller connections (1/8npt? Seemed mostly to be Jap stuff) in the block.

Gas Fumes - extra weight and leverage from t-pieces makes sense.

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go.
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Old 08-20-2019, 10:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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IF you harm the threads, there are any amount of different thread repair systems.
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Old 08-20-2019, 12:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Turn it backward until you feel it drop one thread and then turn it the correct way. Lube it with an anti-seize compound.
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Old 08-20-2019, 12:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Turn it backward until you feel it drop one thread and then turn it the correct way. Lube it with an anti-seize compound.
I figure this trick out in high school, and have taught it to many people, but this is the first time I've come across someone else who knows about it. 'Tis a life saver though.
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Old 08-20-2019, 03:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Notice I'm too lysdexic to trust clockwise/anticlockwise.
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Old 08-20-2019, 03:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I did away with idiot light sensor on the '88 Escort I used to drive and replaced it with a mechanical gauge, drove it that way for years with no problems.

Last edited by 2016 Versa; 08-20-2019 at 03:47 PM..
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Remote mounting it gives you one more place to spring a leak.
Speaking of leaks, I have had a sensor fail on our 98 Camry. It was a nasty little failure mode. The idiot light did not come on, and it was leaking rapidly out the wire connection. Luckily I had the window down and it got on the exhaust so I could smell it. I would guess an empty engine in about an hour's drive, it was really pouring out of there!

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