Air intake on a volvo 240 (big lesson learned)

[brucepick]

tjts1 knows his stuff; it's good that he weighed in on this.
He and I (as Sven's Maintainer) were/are regulars on brickboard.com, on the 240 series subforum ( RWD - The Volvo Owner's Resource ).

Anyway, your spare AMM out of a '92 won't do for your "87. The '92 would be an LH2.4 system, unless it's a 5-spd in which case there's a good chance its LH3.1. In any case it's not LH2.2 to match your car.

And, I've seen cautions many times not to unplug a Volvo AMM while it's running. Kill the engine, unplug it or reconnect it, then start it up again. Otherwise you could make the computer VERY unhappy, and your local recycling yard inversely happy.

Like you I put a CAI on my '89 240. Didn't really like the results. Mine was different from yours: I cut holes in the front of the air filter housing. It pulled cold air right thru the grill, and not past the radiator either, as I recall.

I ended up restoring the oem design but modded it thus:

1) I wrapped the preheat intake duct with gray foam pipe insulation from Home Depot. Wrap with duct tape to keep it together.

2) I got an interior-exterior thermometer from AutoZone (big box parts store, $10) and put the remote sensor inside the airbox, forward of the filter. Display on dash told me the intake air temp for about 2 years till the thing died.

3) I put a tube in the grill to aim cold ram-air at the air filter thermostat, which is in a funnel-shaped duct in the filter housing. To make sure it gets the "real deal" raw outside air. Even in the oem configuration it reads only outside air, not a mixture of raw + preheated.

After all mods, in deep winter (10-20 deg F outside) the cold air hitting the t'stat would keep the duct set for preheated air only, and net intake air temps were 65-80 deg. F. In moderate winter the intake air temp would mostly be about 50-55. Bear in mind, with the preheat duct insulated, that raises the resulting intake air temp a bit from what it would be without the insulation. Because the t'stat reads only raw outside as its input, not the mix.

And yes, I've seen many cautions on Brickboard to not let the AMM get overheated due to the t'stat pooping out and sticking in the "full preheat" mode. Thus I added the digital thermometer to keep tabs on things.

I still have the car and use it for heavier hauling now and then, and in nasty snow with snow tires. Otherwise, it's mostly retired.

[makindue]

Originally Posted by DonR

You may consider making a shield for the ricer filter and compare the two. This would prevent the splashing you are seeing. Since you have most of the parts to make the comparison already, you would only be out a few bucks and a small amount of time.

Don

How can I spend lesser and time for that shield?

[EdKiefer]

You have to be careful with removing stock airbox and adding cone filter right onto the MAF . If you look at the airbox on many vehicles (not sure on volvo 240 ) they many have air straighteners to keep down any turbulence as this will cause MAF to read wrong, there very sensitive .
As someone else noted adding (if you have room) a short pipe between the MAF and cone filter may help this out a bit.
Also make sure cone filter not getting blasted directly with air stream , if any comes into area where its located .