Another Ranger aero bed topper, (with ???)

[freebeard]

I could probably find the quote if you wanted to see it.

Eh, I think this is the highest use of a pickup bed, but that's just me:

[Waspswatter]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Eh, I think this is the highest use of a pickup bed, but that's just me:

Well, you work with what you've got.

[ChazInMT]

Waspswatter....my man, you seem like a great person so far, so here's what I got for you. It's a paper written by a smart guy who got a Masters Degree asking the questions you are here and then writing a thesis. Imagine that? You don't have to take my word for it, or anyone elses here, just trust in Feysal.

Read This

Pay Real Close Attention to the last paragraph on page 84 and the chart on his page 85, (adobe's page 103).....ask again what a 10-12° cap does for you.

This was why I suggested what I did before, cause I was thinking of this paper, by a smart guy, not just making stuff up.



Here's a pic of a Ranger with a green 10° line and a red template imposed on it....ironic that they meet over the top of the tailgate??? I think not.

VG's are worthless on ground based lumpy butt vehicles going 70mph, think udders on bulls.

[JRMichler]

The slope angle is why my topper ends above the top of the tailgate. And it gave me a handy place to mount a locking latch mechanism and a center stop light.

[Waspswatter]

Okay, I've read Feysal's paper. I won't say I understood it all, but I read it. And I have a question for ya Michler before I start building. Is the 3rd taillight mandatory by DOT? or optional. My design makes adding another taillight difficult.
And, (since it won't line up perfectly) is it better to try to have the leading edge of the topper meet as close as possible to the trailing edge of the cab? Or, since there'll be a small gap, to have the leading edge of the topper somewhat rounded in front?

Somewhat related, does anyone have an idea on how to attach some wheel covers to the aluminum wheels? I'd prefer to not do any permanent, (or dangerous) modifications.
:O

[JRMichler]

I don't know if a center brake light is required. I do know that it is a very good idea. If your topper comes down to the top of the tailgate, you could mount a light off the bottom of the topper right behind the tailgate.

I'm also looking for a good way to mount wheel covers to aluminum wheels. If the covers could be fastened with one center fastener, threaded inserts could be epoxied into the center holes in the front spindles. The rear axles could be drilled and tapped.

[Waspswatter]

It's certainly possible to mount another brake light, just difficult. I considered a polycarbonate window for the existing brake light, but that's also more complicated.

I'm considering the idea of mounting a plywood base to the wheel using safety wire or zip ties, then screwing the wheel cover to that. One large center screw would make the wheel cover easily removable for checking tire pressure. Amazon has some relatively cheap aluminum pizza pans in various sizes.

[Waspswatter]

Progress is slow when you're working on 15 different projects at once.

Here're some shots of my pattern piece. Trying to figure out how large to make it since the cab tapers at the trailing edge. I don't want to go too large and have the topper stick out in the wind, and I don't want to go too small and not have a smooth transition. How's this look? (Pattern will be 1/4" larger with the plywood skin).

[freebeard]

Well, it's good to hear you haven't sandwiched plywood between your aluminum wheels and your hubcaps. Get four rings of PVC pipe about 12" in diameter and maybe 2-3" wide. Notch the inner faces so they index into any slots or spokes on the aluminum wheel so they want to stay centered, then cinch them up with Zip ties. From there, maybe bent/riveted tabs with Dzus fasteners. If you get from the street rodders you'll know it's done right.

The plywood would de-laminate in that environment.
______________

The gap at the back of the cab needs thought, as you say. How about the pattern is the size of the back window and as close to it as you dare. That enables replacing the glass with a rubber bellow*. Then bring the section of the topper out in a shallow curve (e.g., 12 to 1:30 on the clock viewing from the right) to an inch or two larger all round than your current pattern—such that the air in the gap is sucked like a passive Coanda nozzle. In fact that would be the perfect place to dump hot high-pressure engine air if it was mid-engined. The topper would want to be just big enough to cause the air to re-attach without adding much frontal area.

*which would block air from moving up from underneath, or sideways in a cross wind. With that feature in place, the logical place for hinges is externally, on top of the cab, like the trunk of a 1940s car. You could lift the rear a few feet and the rubber bellow would accommodate the movement.

[Waspswatter]

I like the PVC idea. I'm usually so busy with other projects that I don't build something if the idea isn't just right. Plywood wheels just isn't right.

No hinge needed on my design, the entire thing slides off.