Another Ranger aero bed topper, (with ???)

[Waspswatter]

So I've read a lot of the aero bed topper posts, (of course) and I'm going to give one a try.

goals:

1. Aerodynamic

2. Lockable for storage of gear/items.

3. Not horrifically ugly.

4. Durable in Wisconsin freezing/thawing winters

1 and 2 I can manage alright. :P Constuction materials will be marine painted plywood, (eventually fiberglassed if I think it is warranted, and/or I'm inspired for a second design).

I've had multiple ideas, but I'm leaning toward a lightweight, solid, one-piece shell that from a locked position slides to the rear and lifts up. I've been mulling this over a LONG time, but I'd still like to hear any advice/ideas.

On the subject of aeromodding, yes yes, I know there're LOTS of things that are possible, but does anyone know if the fender wells on this model truck are removable? (Bought this truck in 2005 before the gas hikes and economy drag.)

[Waspswatter]

A few other notes. The black strip at the topper rear is a tinted window for parallel parking/etc. The fins on the sides are vortex generators. As the air flows along the sides it rolls over and/or is pulled over by the low pressure on the top and creates a vortex at the rear.

Step bars will be removed and coroplast air dams/belly pans/grill blocks will be installed. But I don't want this to end up looking like a Buck Rodgers spaceship. I'd just like to do the mods that will give the most gain.

[JRMichler]

My topper has been on for over 2.5 years in Wisconsin. The finish is still good, although I need to touch up a couple of dings. Here's my thread on it: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...yon-17070.html.

I used interior grade plywood because it was cheap, readily available, and won't rot as long as I keep it well sealed.

[Waspswatter]

Originally Posted by JRMichler

My topper has been on for over 2.5 years in Wisconsin. The finish is still good, although I need to touch up a couple of dings. Here's my thread on it: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...yon-17070.html.

I used interior grade plywood because it was cheap, readily available, and won't rot as long as I keep it well sealed.

Yours was one of the threads I read. Do you have issues with snow/ice/rain getting in the bed?

I'd be extremely surprised if I could get 37mpg! I'm only getting 18/20 now with moderate driving, (mostly to work and back, 3 miles each way). I also do some highway driving as I live in a small town without even a grocery store.

What did you use for grill blocks? It looks like shrink wrap. I have plans for a wind-closable plastic piece. More expensive, but durable.

[Waspswatter]

And there's obviously a lot that could be done here.

[Frank Lee]

I don't think generating vortices is what you want.... but give it a go and test the results.

ANYTHING is removeable, given the proper tools.

[JRMichler]

I found some weatherstrip in the hardware store and put it inside the hinge and down the sides. Plus some self stick bulb weatherstrip on the bottom of the rear vertical piece where it butts against the tailgate. No rain gets in, either parked or while driving.

The grille block is 3M window cover. I found it in the hardware store. I used the exterior stuff. It looks exactly like the interior grade, but is twice as thick. The original piece lasted until I hit the deer earlier this year.

I currently have the upper grille 100% blocked with window film, the two lower grille openings 100% blocked with acrylic plastic, and the opening under the license plate 100% blocked with Gorilla tape. The only opening is the slot between the grille and the bumper. So far, no increase in engine temperature with outside temperatures up to 88 deg F and the A/C running.

The handle in the center is a garage door handle. It locks.

I also have a 3 mile commute, with three stop signs each way. In summer, I usually get mid 30's MPG on that commute. Occasionally over 40 under ideal conditions. At least, that's what the Scangauge says.

[freebeard]

The fins on the sides are vortex generators.

These are the vortexes that others are trying to eliminate because they suck energy right out of you fuel tank. But by separating the top and sides air flow they may suppress vortexes instead of creating them.

[Waspswatter]

Originally Posted by freebeard

These are the vortexes that others are trying to eliminate because they suck energy right out of you fuel tank. But by separating the top and sides air flow they may suppress vortexes instead of creating them.

So do you think I should extend the sides all the way up to be level with the top of the cab?

[ChazInMT]

If I was to do this, I'd put the cap up about the height of the red line here and radius the corners, this would max out the benefit of a non-curved top profile. Corner radiuses would be less critical at this angle. Don't raise the sides higher than the top.

The way you drew it with the "Side Fins" would be less than ideal for reducing drag.