12-07-2014, 11:49 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Im assuming deadlock is cruise control?
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12-07-2014, 08:37 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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"deadlock"
It is a mistake in the translation .
I mean stop engine
normal driving I do not see the danger. driving with the engine off in descents, grabs my car more speed , the car in front slows down and that's the danger, which gives the feeling that does not brake enough or runs out of brakes.
if the drop is large you have to brake a few times, and no need accelerate the engine, with the same slope grabs more speed .
here are many mountains .
I have to try if the alternator works.
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12-09-2014, 01:01 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herberpower
Do not turn off the engine to use less fuel if you leave it in neutral. The power steering and brake assist is lost.
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Not so. First, even with the engine off, you should have enough reserve vacuum for several brake applications - plenty of time to start the engine again. Second, with any car (or even largish truck) you do not need power steering at highway speeds unless you are extremely weak.
But the big flaw here is that if your car is at all modern, it will have DFCO, which means that it will use no fuel while decelerating/coasting in gear, but will use fuel if it's idling in neutral.
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12-09-2014, 10:01 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Not every modern car has DFCO mine doesn't. Check your scangauge when you are going down a hill in gear vs neutral. Don't forget safety is first!! Fukk Fuel economy if its not safe!
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12-09-2014, 02:02 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydave
Don't forget safety is first!! Fukk Fuel economy if its not safe!
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If safety really was first, you'd never get in a car in the first place. Or indeed, leave your fortified, climate-controlled, radiation-proof bunker :-)
The question is whether it in any way decreases safety to coast in neutral rather than in gear, and as far as I can see (which includes quite a bit of practical experience) it doesn't.
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12-09-2014, 09:48 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf
Not so. First, even with the engine off, you should have enough reserve vacuum for several brake applications - plenty of time to start the engine again. Second, with any car (or even largish truck) you do not need power steering at highway speeds unless you are extremely weak.
But the big flaw here is that if your car is at all modern, it will have DFCO, which means that it will use no fuel while decelerating/coasting in gear, but will use fuel if it's idling in neutral.
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I've been testing the car these days .
in neutral, I turned off the engine and tried the brakes , I braked 3 or 4 times and it worked well .
the other time prove the brake scared me , it was downhill , the car in front , brake and I approached too quickly .
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12-09-2014, 09:56 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydave
Not every modern car has DFCO mine doesn't. Check your scangauge when you are going down a hill in gear vs neutral. Don't forget safety is first!! Fukk Fuel economy if its not safe!
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I have no ScanGauge .
my car has obd2 .
is turbodiesel engine with indirect Coagulant injector mechanics.
I think not serve anything, mechanics Coagulant injector has nothing to measure .
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12-09-2014, 10:19 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dplane
It also sounds like your car could use a new alternator if 800 rpm is not enough to charge the battery. Sometimes a diode (or diodes) will fail, killing a phase in the alternator so it will only start charging at a higher rpm!
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I have been measuring the battery voltage .
always with dipped beam or main beam .
I put the fan heating to maximum and turn the thermal window, to have a high consumption, relenti begins to 13.2V and after a few minutes I get to 11.9V , then in gear began in 13,2V and rose to 13 , 7V fast , later he stayed at 14V . climbed no more .
an hour after stopping the engine battery was 12,72V
other prueva with the lights off and it all off, a idle being 13.8V and 14V remains , in gear stays between 14V and 14.2V
I think the alternator works well .
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12-10-2014, 09:00 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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With many cars, you get one (or two) times to press on the brake and get normal assist - but then you need to turn the engine on again.
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12-10-2014, 01:47 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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For YEARS I drove cars with no power steering, no power brakes, no power windows, no power seats, no power mirrors and no power.
Me thinks some of you are just weenies. Lol!
As to the original post; I've been coasting in neutral (clutch in) for as long as I can remember. It SUBSTANTUALLY increases coasting distances and has probably been my most effective tool for increasing my average mpg's.
I'd love to see a comparison between coasting in gear with fuel cut vs. coasting in neutral for a set distance/time; say 1/2mi coast coming to a stop (an easy feat to manage in daily driving). Use the 'neutral coast' as the baseline since the coasting distances are so far. For the 'fuel cut'; coast down to a set speed (maybe 1/2 your original cruising speed?) and then maintain it so as to arrive at that stop (1/2mi away) in the same amount of time as the 'neutral' test (to help eliminate 'average speed' as a variable; you could coast the entire way but the 'fuel-cut' car would take a LOT longer to get there) I'd be really curious to see which is the more efficient coast-down method.
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