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Old 07-29-2008, 10:03 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullockracing View Post
Air Filtration Test

Quote: For the record, the K&N was the best flowing filter.

No angst here, but if your air filter (on any car) is a flow restriction, a better flowing air filter will increase performance.
And it goes on to say...
Quote:
This is equivalent to 0.072 psi or very nearly nothing. The air filter posses very little restriction at all in this application. As long as an air filter is properly sized for an application, the lost airflow will be very minimal. This means that there is very little if any power to be found from removing the air filter, much less changing the filter type. The K&N did flow better than the Napa Gold in the first test to the tune of 0.02 psi. That is less than 1/3rd the loss in the factory piping, and it is a whopping 0.14% of atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi). If you need the 0.14% better airflow, than the K&N is hands down the best filter.

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Old 07-29-2008, 10:03 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Internet BMW Riders - Air Filter FAQ/Info

Also long read, but determines that the K&N will filter just as well as a paper filter (but only once it's dirty), and that a K&N outperforms the paper filter at part-throttle applications.
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:10 AM   #23 (permalink)
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On a Mazda Miata with a bone stock 1.6 liter engine (where the restriction is the airbox itself and not so much the filter) a K&N may be marginal at best, but the theory is still sound. Both vehicles I own are 4.6 liters, but compared to a 1.3 liter Metro, my car is like a 300 pound man trying to run a marathon while breathing through a straw.

As I previously stated, and as stated in the article, the K&N flows better than the factory paper in any application, and the gains will vary based on the application and how restrictive the factory filter is in that application...
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Old 07-29-2008, 01:34 PM   #24 (permalink)
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the k&n on injected vehicles is best dirty indeed. The old carb 2.3is the ones that need clean to be efficient. Injected is a big slob waiting to suck in alot of unnecessary Bigness for *nothing* but consumption. Be sure filter is on the other side of maf, the k&n can gain a chemistry being oiled, sucking into whatever type maf electrically functioning may not like it. I wouldn't use a k&n on injected anyway...but it is a popular choice, like a nice shiny chrome air intake snorkel waiting for maf lightning
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Old 07-30-2008, 12:28 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I would be interested to see some testing on the other components of an air intake system on the blackfly. (IE If there's any difference with just the bare filter vs. having the intake regularly set up)
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:14 AM   #26 (permalink)
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OK same problem, different example...

i just bought a "microfiber" rag at the mall. I got pulled in by the guy from TV and the "eco" marketing. I figured if i could replace all my paper towels with one rag, i could save money and landfill real-estate.

But when i got home i thought, man i'm dumb, now i've got to get 200,000 miles out of this stupid rag to justify paying $8.00 for it!!!

Damn you guy from TV!!!!! Im glad he wasn't selling $50.00 air-filters...
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Old 07-30-2008, 08:47 AM   #27 (permalink)
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i run a K & n filter on my explorer, and have had the same one for 106,000 miles. no damage to MAF, no engine problems. only thing i ever had to replace on the motor (excluding general maintenance of course) was a pcv valve and dpfe module (controls egr valve).

had one (same exact one actually) on a ranger i used to own. 175,000 miles, no engine problems.

i didn't notice any mpg gains, and the butt-dyno showed a little better performance. but thats not why i bought them. i love them off-road.

i once got my ranger over the hood in water/mud (little deeper than i thought, oops). engine started running real rough, and i barely got out. so i got to the other side, turned it off, and popped the hood. took off the top (engine side) of the airbox, no water/dirt intrusion. pulled out the filter and water started running out of it (non-engine side). bottom of airbox was full of water. i just set the filter on the roof for about 30 minutes until it dried out, put it back in, no problems. (also pulled the spark plugs and cranked the motor to make double-sure no water got in). added a little oil when i got home.

basically i've driven 2 vehicles a total of around 280,000 miles with 1 k & n filter. and 1 clean/recharge kit. i'm frequently on dirty/muddy roads (every day actually). i'm happy with them, mainly because i didn't expect any kind of performance/mpg gains. i clean/oil them when i can't see any purple (oil) on the (non-engine) side. personally i don't see the point of one on a paved road-only rig, but i dont see it hurting anything.

the way i see it, if YOU feel it was worth YOUR money, then it works for YOU. no point arguing about it.
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Old 07-31-2008, 10:38 AM   #28 (permalink)
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To solve this once and for all, I will install a paper filter and document the results. I've got tons of mileage tracked so far on my K&N, and I fill up at least once per week, so any noticable change will be worth it.
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Old 07-31-2008, 01:07 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I have a hard time believing anyone on this forum will be able to provide valid results from their own tests. There are just to many variables to get any kind of controlled environment.

The results are there, you just have to read them. I'm pretty sure not many people who posted in this thread actually took the time to read the valid test reports and interpret the results.
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:53 PM   #30 (permalink)
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As a matter of fact it indeed comes down to credibility.

Btw the report I referred to can be discussed, that could only be good. Did you care to read it? I would very much like to read what you have to say about it that would invalidate its conclusions. Somehow I am inclined to believe you will never go down that route.

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