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Old 03-01-2011, 06:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I think what Frank is getting at is that you seem to be set on buying a Metro/Swift now, but there are a lot of cars out there that might be a good car for less money. If you limit yourself to just one model, you'll likely pass up good deals on other cars.

I've been considering a cheap beater (spousal approval for another car is sketchy, so I'm not too serious yet) with a manual and have found a wide range of '96+ cars under $1200 that would work fine. Kia Sephia, Dodge Neon, Chevy Cavalier, Hyundai Accent and Elantra, Ford Escort all show up regularly in this price range, with the occassional VW Jetta or Civic. The '96+ Metro/Swift rarely seems to show up in my seach, most are priced higher and if I only looked for Metros I'd have to pay more.

My price range is lower, but I'm more willing to tolerate flaws than most. That and location may affect your search results.

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Old 03-01-2011, 07:03 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
The list is helpful to me, because I check out the cars at the top to see what's available locally, then look up the history of the cars I'm interested in on various sites, including this one. That's how I found the suzuki.
The Geo Metro is a Suzuki Swift, just in case you didn't figure that out and you would be better off going by EPA numbers then by what people get on here as everyones use and driving can vary alot, some of us drive ideal routs that let us obtain higher then normal mileage while others have less then ideal routs or have a vehicle that is fully loaded with tools or people or towing a trailer so EPA numbers are going to give you a level playing field to judge vehicles from, to make the best use of the EPA's mpg web site fallow this link.
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It lets you select a range of years, vehicle types and many other options.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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The Geo Metro is a Suzuki Swift, just in case you didn't figure that out and you would be better off going by EPA numbers then by what people get on here
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Ryland,

Does that mean parts and tools for the swift would not be so hard to find like my mechanic had thought?

Thanks for that info and link.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:41 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Parts for a Swift really shouldn't be a problem. The Chevy/Geo Metro and Suzuki Swift are the same car and if you have to get a dealer only part, your local Chevy dealer will likely have most of them.

But who goes there anyways, go to your nearest FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store) and pick up your parts there. They either have or can get most everything you need to keep your car running.

That said, I'd probably keep looking unless you can talk them down a lot on the price.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:44 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Darcane, thanks.
My mechanic seemed to think parts and tools would be hard to find for some reason, maybe because he doesn't see the car very often. I will definitely work the price down, or else let it pass and get something else.

Update: My mechanic feels the geo metro is a throw away car, 100k max unless nursed along, and that sukuki parts and tools can be different even though it's the same car, so he recommends sticking with honda or toyota.

Oh well. I'm still going to see the suzuki tomorrow but will keep these things in mind.

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Old 03-01-2011, 11:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
Update: My mechanic feels the geo metro is a throw away car, 100k max unless nursed along, and that sukuki parts and tools can be different even though it's the same car.
What makes the Metro/swift a throw away car is that it was $9,000 or so new and alot of people who bought them treated them poorly so judge the person who you are buying it from as much as you judge the car, they are not a bullet proof car but if taken care of they will last, maybe not much past 200,000 miles but up until that point you should be fine, if it's cared for.
I would go with the Honda or Toyota just because I like how they feel to drive more then the metro/swift, I don't know tho what special tools your mechanic is thinking you might need, I would stay away from VW's for the reason of needing special tools for! but the Metro/swift everything bolts together with a standard set of metric wrenches... other then the front suspension supports those rust out and are welded to the body, at that point the car is scrap unless you can weld and want a project and for that reason you want to look at the body and not so much the drive train, the drive train on a metro is a dime a dozen or more so $150 for an engine and $100 for the transmission and they are little engines with lots of space around them so you hoist the engine out with an engine hoist or a coat hanger and some baller twine if you have to and bolt the new one in if things really go south on you.
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Old 03-02-2011, 01:12 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland View Post
What makes the Metro/swift a throw away car is that it was $9,000 or so new and alot of people who bought them treated them poorly so judge the person who you are buying it from as much as you judge the car, they are not a bullet proof car but if taken care of they will last, maybe not much past 200,000 miles but up until that point you should be fine, if it's cared for.
I would go with the Honda or Toyota just because I like how they feel to drive more then the metro/swift, I don't know tho what special tools your mechanic is thinking you might need, I would stay away from VW's for the reason of needing special tools for! but the Metro/swift everything bolts together with a standard set of metric wrenches... other then the front suspension supports those rust out and are welded to the body, at that point the car is scrap unless you can weld and want a project and for that reason you want to look at the body and not so much the drive train, the drive train on a metro is a dime a dozen or more so $150 for an engine and $100 for the transmission and they are little engines with lots of space around them so you hoist the engine out with an engine hoist or a coat hanger and some baller twine if you have to and bolt the new one in if things really go south on you.
Ryland,
That's an awesome message, very helpful - thanks.
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I looked at the suzuki, and took it to my mechanic for a check. He scanned the codes and said they were fine, but thought the car was due for a timing belt change at 60,000 miles ($300). He was right, as shown on this link.

I drove the car and noticed the gearing was quite low, certainly not suitable for extended freeday driving, but okay around town. I'm passing on the car and will be looking for a 5 speed for me now.

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Old 03-04-2011, 12:08 AM   #29 (permalink)
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99 honda civic ex

Let me know your comments about a honda civic ex.

5 speed, 2 door, power windows & locks, keyless entry,
new tires and tune up, timing belt and water pump at 98,000 miles,
dark green, paint peeling on trunk lid, windshield has a crack. now 106,300

The owner says it gets 33 mpg, mostly on 20 mile freeway trips @ 75 mph.
I find that disappointing as I'd like to get at least 40, potentially 50 mpg.

Might this car be a good choice?


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Old 03-04-2011, 01:46 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
Let me know your comments about a honda civic ex.

5 speed, 2 door, power windows & locks, keyless entry,
new tires and tune up, timing belt and water pump at 98,000 miles,
dark green, paint peeling on trunk lid, windshield has a crack. now 106,300

The owner says it gets 35 mpg, mostly on 20 mile freeway trips @ 65 mph.

I find that disappointing as I'd like to get at least 40, potentially 50 mpg.

Might this car be a good choice, or not?
Peeling paint on a 12 year old car? That's unusual... Especially with a Honda.

I'd be sure to Carfax it. Could be an accident in it's past.

The EX is more geared towards performance than economy. Although all Civics are pretty reasonable on economy, you'd be better off getting an HX or even a DX Civic.

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