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Old 08-21-2013, 12:20 AM   #51 (permalink)
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That reminds me, my fuel filter is probably complete crap too lol. FYI, a line wrench works best on brake lines / fuel lines. If it wasn't such a tight spot, cutting the line and re flaring it could be an option.

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Old 08-21-2013, 12:30 AM   #52 (permalink)
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pizza runner - '94 toyota corolla dx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
That reminds me, my fuel filter is probably complete crap too lol. FYI, a line wrench works best on brake lines / fuel lines. If it wasn't such a tight spot, cutting the line and re flaring it could be an option.
i was able to get an open end wrench on it but there is zero swing room
mine is under the brake master cylinder, way down on the firewall
maybe i can remove the top line then the 2 bolts that hold the filter to the car
then pull both filter & remaining line down while they are still hooked together???
there has to be a way. the bugs were starting to come out to visit me when i was trying to get the thing removed so i was looking to rush the job so i didn't get all bit up.

tomorrow is another day i'll make another attempt & report back
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:22 PM   #53 (permalink)
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pizza runner - '94 toyota corolla dx
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filter fun

ok after 3 hours of fighting the thing
my new fuel filter is bolted in place & they car seems to have a little extra power
i took it out for a test run
i would bring it up to 1750 rpm then up shift
which would put me at 1500 rpm
unless there was a hill the car would pull just fine
i did my best to not allow the rpm's to go over 2000 at any time
i might look into a cheep cruise control kit for the thing

took a couple of pics
my browser is acting funny so just the links show up for some odd reason

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1377132554

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1377132554

http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1377132555






the things i had to remove were:
the top of the air box
the air tube going to the throtle body
the evap canister
evap canister bracket
i then broke the top bolt loose on the old fuel filter
then the fight started
the bolts holding the filter to the filter bracket were very rusty
i had sprayed them but 1 still broke off just before it came out
i used a 10mm deep socket with a long flex head 3/8's drive ratchet
only 1 or 2 chicks at a time
then i gave the filter with the bottom line still attached a good tug
i was able to pull them down a couple of inches
the 14mm line wrench failed to break the bottom line loose
so i attacked the rusty crusty pig with a med. size pair of vicegrips
& the longest 19mm wrench i had on the property
again very little swing room but in time i got the line removed
the new filter kicked & screamed & even after putting all the tight i dared to it there was still a small fuel leak
so i got the vicegrips out again & decided to keep putting more tight till either the leak stopped or i broke the silly line clean off !!!
it stopped leaking 1st ,so no need to bend up a new fuel line

thanks
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:28 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Lol Congrats you won the fight .

FYI on the images, the links are to the image page on photobucket. If you click the link can copy the link for forums (labeled as IMG), they should work fine.

Oh, my cars auto trans will only allow me down to about 1700rpm before it drops gear, I normally get it to shift by 2000-2200rpm. I don't have an RPM gauge so it isn't so easy to see. The scan gauges are a bit delayed.

ex:


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Old 08-21-2013, 11:22 PM   #55 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=ps2fixer;386532]Lol Congrats you won the fight .

FYI on the images, the links are to the image page on photobucket. If you click the link can copy the link for forums (labeled as IMG), they should work fine.

Oh, my cars auto trans will only allow me down to about 1700rpm before it drops gear, I normally get it to shift by 2000-2200rpm. I don't have an RPM gauge so it isn't so easy to see. The scan gauges are a bit delayed.


i never had a problem images till i went with this dam google chrome
now the silly thing doesn't want to play ball
i right click it say copied.......no image shows up just the link
oh well life goes on.

i have had a couple cars/trucks with an automatics years ago (about 20)
i hated everyone of them
i have to hunt to find a vehicle with a 5speed but it's worth the effort in the end. i'm still finding 94' - 95' corollas on craigslist for around $1500 in my area
so i guess once i wear out my current car i'll go out & buy another just like it.


thanks
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:37 AM   #56 (permalink)
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90 day: 20.34 mpg (US)

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Yep that is about the price near me too for nicer ones. Mine was ~$650 and $500ish to fix up. I see a lot of them with fairly small problems for $500-800 qutie often, but sadly the sticks are pretty rare and typically have a bad engine/trans by the time the people want to sell them .
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:21 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
Yep that is about the price near me too for nicer ones. Mine was ~$650 and $500ish to fix up. I see a lot of them with fairly small problems for $500-800 qutie often, but sadly the sticks are pretty rare and typically have a bad engine/trans by the time the people want to sell them .


your in the wrong state

2001 toyota corolla 5sp 183000 miles





Toyota Corolla LX 1995---- 5 speed-----

i myself like this little wagon
93 Toyota Corolla WAGON 5 Speed!!
i could use it almost like a truck
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:59 AM   #58 (permalink)
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90 day: 20.34 mpg (US)

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Both of them cars are not exactly on my "wanted" list . I'm a bit pickey though. For the corolla, my requirements (currently) is a 5 speed manual, 96-97, under 200k miles, has a super solid body (michigan cancer is a problem here lol). Year range is due to OBD2, and in 98 they redesigned the engine and I'm not as fond of them. According to my research, corollas lasted around 250-300k miles on average, so targeting 200k or less when possible, and finally we in Michigan have a thing called michigan cancer, also known as rust lol. My current car fails every check except the year lol.

The wagons are nice, however if my research was correct, they are AWD, aka 4 wheel drive which hits MPG some, I'm trying to target a reliable but best MPG possible car . I also have a Camry, but those things suck the gas a lot more, mainly due to being 1000 pounds fatter, and being wider/taller.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:19 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
Both of them cars are not exactly on my "wanted" list . I'm a bit pickey though. For the corolla, my requirements (currently) is a 5 speed manual, 96-97, under 200k miles, has a super solid body (michigan cancer is a problem here lol). Year range is due to OBD2, and in 98 they redesigned the engine and I'm not as fond of them. According to my research, corollas lasted around 250-300k miles on average, so targeting 200k or less when possible, and finally we in Michigan have a thing called michigan cancer, also known as rust lol. My current car fails every check except the year lol.

The wagons are nice, however if my research was correct, they are AWD, aka 4 wheel drive which hits MPG some, I'm trying to target a reliable but best MPG possible car . I also have a Camry, but those things suck the gas a lot more, mainly due to being 1000 pounds fatter, and being wider/taller.
as far as i know some of the older Tercels were all wheel drive
i have never seen an 93' or newer corolla that was anything more than front wheel drive.
we get our cars eaten by salt air & road salt so i know all about cancer.
i have found some corollas in the area that have great bodies
others not so good,mine is in good shape.

i have never had a check engine light come on my corolla & i have put over 100k on it. that is why i like the OBD1 cars so much
lots less junk on them that will cost you a pile of cash to replace when you have to go get a state inspection.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:41 AM   #60 (permalink)
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92 Camry - '92 Toyota Camry LE
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90 day: 26.81 mpg (US)

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Team Toyota
90 day: 30.1 mpg (US)

Red F250 - '95 Ford F250 XLT
90 day: 20.34 mpg (US)

Matrix - '04 Toyota Matrix XR
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No state inspections here yet Even if there was, I can clear the code b4 it.

99% of my cars were OBD1 (1990-1994) and the biggest problem I had with them was rust, and they were all american made. Since I switched to Toyota... havn't had any major problems, including the rust ordeal lol. I do like the OBD2 for the instant mgp abilities, and the scanners are much easier to get for them.

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