blue collar Geo Metro Areo mods
 

so. gonna start a build thread. Prolly take me a while to come to fruition but. gotta start someplace.

so. Bought a 93 metro XFi, promptly dubbed it "Actual Size"

please note in this photo the hood is fully closed and latched. I got a bit of work ahead of me.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1322685196

Drivers side mirror was broken off so a "Mirror Delete" was only natural. .

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1322685229

The outside is currently sealed with blasters tape, when I get supplies ill fiberglass it to give it a finished look

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1322685231

While spelunking in the local boneyard looking for a new hood I found some hubcaps. Im sure these help but they are gonna soon be used a the base for a full smooth wheelcover project.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...ualsize009.jpg

Engine compartment was literally black with grease. a can of foamy engine brite and some elbow grease and you can start to see the engine.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323388521

a trip to the local carwash/pressure washer and Viola! An engine!

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n88/OUTFXD/005-1.jpg

My third cardboard template actually fit rather well. So, this being the crap weather season, I sprayed it with a can of rustolium I had floating about. put it on with shelving support for a brace.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323389215

Boneyard hood and drivers side parking light cover and shes starting to look like a real car.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323386919

Part of my "to do list" is a front air dam and partial underbody tray. Problem was the turn signals are in the bumper.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...elocate003.jpg

So. Time for some ghetto garage work, relocating the turnsignals to the parking light housings. Picked up some three wire light bulb sockets and bulbs from the local auto parts hause. I removed the parking light housings and "Modified" them to accept the larger bulbs. (originally planned to cut a smaller hole and smooth it bigger. Didn't work that way) I cut the hole lower and more to the middle to compensate for the larger bulb.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323386415

the existing harness had quick release connections between the bulbs and the harness so I cut between the connects and the bulbs and wired them together with the three wire socket. Everything plugs straight in and BAYAM. Combonation turnsignal/parking lights/

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323386415

hm thinking slam it tint it weld in side skirts with a removable panel for tire changes then paint it bright bright red with a black stripe down the center!

Nah, this is my eco build. my Subaru is my "look! Im still a kid! No really!" car

CAD front air dam(?) inspired by MetroMPGs big ass air dam. Spent to much time and to much thought getting it "just right" and screwed it up. But then thats why we start with carboard instead of jumping straight to Titanium yeah?

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323646845

All in all not a bad design I think, Its bottom edge is about even with the exhaust and includes a partial belly plate, running from the bumper to the front tires.

inspiration from:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...down-9732.html

About 2 hours after I posted picks of the Dam the duct tape pealed off. Like.. all of it. Luckily I didnt have it *Permanently mounted* as I was still making adjustments but I think this project just got put on hold till I find a Coroplast vendor.

Watching with interest - keep the pics coming!

updated the side skirts to Coroplast (wowsers! How do you guys make smooth radius cuts in this stuff?). picked up one sheet (30'"x36") for $8 at the local Home Depot.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323979199

Bottom edge is 2" lower than the last version to make it even with the bottom of the car, and I included what I can only term a "Tire spat" to bring it flush with the body

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1323979199

Doesn't fit quite as well as version 3 but that is mainly to my lack of Coroplast workmaship skeelz, its aslo not nearly as stealth, this one realy jumps out at you. I do like this version better but it needs a little more finessing.

Inspiration from: a lot of different places! Sorry to anyone I missed!

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...amics-312.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tions-240.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ast-16970.html

working on some smooth wheel covers.

First try, next set a second coat of fiberglass... not to bad I think. Still need to paint them.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1324057612

inspiration from:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ers-18495.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...vex-14958.html

And here they are after 1 coat primer, 2 coats flat white rustolium, on the car. They look ok but far from perfect. ill probably put them on the rear where they will be mostly hidden by the rear skirts and do a better job on the next set.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1324074006

Any time I make modifications to my car I like to check the wheels/tires/suspension for clearance, I use the neighbors cat method.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n88/OUTFXD/cats2.jpg

Please note. The above is a joke, no animals where hurt in the ecomodification of this vehicle.

It looks like you are really going to town on this car. Have you noticed any increased vibration from the fiberglass hubcaps? I would think that the fiberglass would work like a wheel weight if it is not balanced perfectly.

I'll add my two cents, and agree that the grey skirts were more subtle. I think it is because our eyes are accustomed to seeing a black tire and not body color there.

Kirk

I cant say that I notice new vibrations, but then I am running Snow tires, and the balance on them was already terrible so I might not feel a small addition. Been holding off on getting them balanced as I plan on going to some more road worthy tires in the near future. But I agree, you need to be carefull when adding weight to a spinning mass. I think as long as you get the fiberglass reasonably smooth (even) that the difference should be negligible.

Any idea how much the kitten is improving your aero? ;)

-soD

everything, everywhere I have read all says keep air out from under the car at all costs. So, I have used a plastic chin spoiler on many cars - if it scrapes, no big deal.

1/8 inch UHMW is really tough stuff, but you can't glue it - only screw it to things using bolts and sheet metal screws.

Dont know how much the kitten is improving my aero, but I'm more likely to jump on the gas when hes around so it kinda balances out. :D




im still in the prototyping phase, and doubt ill make it to where stuff is all smooth and production looking so Im good with Bolting and screwing stuff together. Cant say I am familier with UHMW. what is it and where can I get it?

after 2 days trying to form a fiberglass plate to fite my mirror delete I just bolted on some coroplast.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1324767130

Latest tank was 40.44 mpg. down 4 mpg despite numerous updates. I think it might be because I used seafoam in this tank, not sure though.

Stopped into a busy gas station to get fuel and got comments from "Dude! Thats wicked" to "I think id rather take the drop in milage than driving around looking like a tool". Se la vi, everyone has their own opinion.

I haven't done ANY aero mods and I gets lots of grief. They ask why I was late for work. I tell them my pull-start cord broke. I can take it and deliver it!

Keep up the good work - you're giving me good ideas!

My thought was "If I didnt want to look like a tool I wouldnt be driving a Metro" Unfortunately I didnt think of it till two hours later(yeah, im not the fastest tool in the drawer).

a pull starter? Hmmm bet THAT would take some load off the battery. Maybe a kick start like they have on old motorcycles!

Nice modding! I wish I could get my hands on some coroplast easily in The Netherlands, (we call it 'kanaalplaat'). I was looking at your front headlights and I just cant help but notice that they are not really smooth or streamlined! Aren't there any aftermarket solutions to get them streamlined?

Deze webshop voor allerhande kunststofplaten toevallig al gezien ?
de webshop voor kunststof platen, folie, buis en staf
Uiteraard wel aan nieuw-prijzen.

Part of the reason I bought THIS car is i wanted to do a headlight cover mod. My original plan was to cut up a couple 2liter soda bottles for the plastic. unfortunately the plastic is JUST big enough to cover the head lights and I cant get the labels off on the area where they glued it. Still working on it though.

Headlight mod is DEFINITELY in the works. Stay tuned true believers!

Okay, so a headlightmod is still in the works. It just screams for it, lol.

@ euromodder, thx!

Keep up the good work!

Any plans for the back end? Kamback or boat tail?

WANT to do a full boat tail but I think that is a ways off. Kamback is going to be first. looking for clear building material as I don't want it to obstruct the view from the rear view mirror(With the blindspot mirrors the rearview mirror is my only real rearward vision) Course It occurs to me I could rig a rear facing camera.

So Looks like a rear view camera and an opaque kamback. Got to digging and found a 7" LCD headrest monitor and wireless camera Rig I got in trade a while back, Monitor works like a charm but I cant figure out the Camera. looks like I should Plug straight in but if I do the monitor shuts down... Thinking Ill just get another camera. mount the Monitor on the dash and attach the GPS unit to it, make a quick ghetto cover so its discrete from outside the vehicle and I'm onto another project.

so. following the formula "Safety, Reliability, Performance, then we meet girls", this weekends project was a steering rack replacement. At face value its not a eco-mod, But all the streamlining in the world is gonna mean squat if your steering fails at 60mph.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1326063342

I went into the project knowing it was gonna be a pain, any time you mess with something dealing with front suspension your gonna be dealing with tapered fittings, but I had no clue what was in store for me. First thing I did was go buy a tie rod end press, good move. $15 saved me from who knows how long with a hammer and picklefork. Along with the standard hide and seek with bolts and nuts, there was a lock bolt inside the car, under the dash, covered by, I kid you not, the carpet which is BOLTED down with little plastic bolt thingys (Geos are weird).

But all told. with no more than the normal amount of things not wanting to go back together. it wasnt a bad project.

Slop is gone from the steering, the slight front end shimmy I was seeing from 40-45mph is gone. the car feels better connected to the road. and Im guessing with more precise steering geometry my mileage will see a boost.

That would be soooo cool. Where to put it among the pedals?

Just out of curiosity did you set the toe? You said it feels stable but that could be the case with excessive toe in, while eating the outside edge of the front tires.
Alignment on a machine would be the best but you could check it with a measuring tape. You would want to see about 1/8" less on the front side of the tires (or less as long as you toe in a little).
Barna

I was joking actually, the whole thing says engineering nightmare to me. but, if someone where to actually tackle this as a project the place that makes sence to me would be on the transmission tube as close to the drivers seat as you could get it. would need to be the foldaway dogleg type so it wouldn't intrude on the drivers space.

No. The idea that I might need to do an alignment after the project was on my mind. But at the end she drives straight and true, no pull one way or another so I let it slide for the moment. I still plan on an alinement when I finally settle on a new set of tires (Cant decide to just keep the 12" ers and deal with it or update to some nice alloys and low profile tires)

I love this thread! I have a '92 Metro and have only done a few things to it. You are inspiring me. I deleted the Rh mirror with the help of my garage corner, then added a snazzy metal cover over where it used to be. I've added a seal along that gap between the bumper and the hood. And I tried out a partial grill block, and liked it, but then the cardboard got wet and it fell off. Hope to put a permanent one on come spring. Keep up the good work.

You might like some of the stuff I've done to my Metro.
Robertwb70

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...aero-9666.html

@ lolarocket

Thank you! You should post some pics! Also. hard lesson learned, only prototype with cardboard when you already have the Coroplast (Or whatever your material is) for your second prototype. I had the same issue with my front dam as you had with your grill block. for smaller projects (Mirror deletes, wheel skirts, grill blocks) you can get smaller sheets of plastic at Home depot, True Value, or your local hardware store. Its bigger sheets for air dams, belly trays, and Kambaks that is tough to find (check your local listings for plastic shops(Tap Plastic)).

Best of luck!

@robertwb70

Somehow missed your thread! Loving the skirts and Kambak. Definitely going to be going over your material!

Thank you for the heads up!

Nice thread.

And hilarious that I also have a '93 Sport Sedan 5 spd in Winestone Metallic. Don't see many of those cars around...

Not many of them to be seen. I believe they only imported 58 per year. Was looking for a 5 speed but they are even rarer (only 18 per year) And as soon as I saw my baby I was in love.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n...l/P7090048.jpg

If you haven't check out BBS.Legacycetral.org THE place to go for anything about a first generation legacy.

Heh, yeah... I've been on there a while. I finally fell out of the top 20 in the top posters list.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y...cture_0078.JPG

Shhhh... don't tell anyone, but that picture was taken at a roadcourse. Where I get a whoppin 10-12 mpg! And sorry about derailing your thread. :D

The easiest aero fix for the headlights is to get a set from the higher up model Metro that were the flush type instead of the ones you have.

Agreed. I actually avoided buying a car with flush headlights so I could do my own mod... out of vanity I guess. I plan on doing a mod. but I've been having issues sourcing appropriate plastic. I may end up yet buying a set of flush headlights. Thank you for your suggestion!

People who have switched headlights have reported no measurable change in FE, but the sealed beams will not yellow and haze over like the plastic ones do, and they're much cheaper to replace. Many people have swapped the opposite way for just that reason, I'm going to do it myself some day.

Latest tank, mileage down another 4mpg. Think the engine might be on its last legs. Aero mods on hold while I try to find another engine.

Some links for your consideration while aero mods are on hold
 

I like the cost appropriateness of your aero mods thread Ultra Orange. I have some links for your consideration while the mods are on hold. The first is more to the "time is money" argument.

Mooneyesusa.com or soon to be Mooneyesusa.net has both a 12" snap on aluminum wheel disc for sale (currently $29.00 each not including shipping):

* see future posting for this link

And a 12" screw on version ($27.50):

*see future posting for this link

Moon Eyes has other sizes too. I have not bought these as yet (cost). I have bought a 12" pizza pan and am mulling options, including a cover made of Lexan plastic.

Speaking of Lexan here is the other link from bbjsw10 at the Team Swift forum: It is a "how to" for a Lexan headlight cover for the standard, recessed type, headlights of the 89-94 vintage Geo Metros:


*see future posting for this link

It is important to note this was done with Lexan NOT Plexiglass. They have different property characteristics. The Lexan is much more "moldable". A Heat gun was used to shape the covers in this mod. Good Luck.

I have to have at least 5 posts before I can post links. This is post 2.