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Old 05-30-2015, 03:48 AM   #551 (permalink)
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Studs have those knock-outs for wiring, but the three-sided part is good for weight. How about a 10' length of ridge cap or electrical conduit?

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Old 05-30-2015, 10:20 AM   #552 (permalink)
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Since the metal studs work so well fer my other builds, I'm thinking about using some on the lid to provide the support framework fer dissipating the load from the canopy. It will be lightweight enough and should be strong enough to hold up to the stresses of being pounded on. It will also be inexpensive fer a 10' section...about $5.
care to give a little more detail? I love your build and hate to fall behind the insanity.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:44 PM   #553 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deejaaa View Post
care to give a little more detail? I love your build and hate to fall behind the insanity.
The steel studs are what builders can use on interior walls which are commonly found in commercial buildings. I used the same studs fer my belly pan build. I won't be using a 2x4 insert like I did fer my belly pan crossbeam supports.

I'll snap some piccies as I build out the lid with the supports.

I'm headed back into El Lago fer a few hours tomorrow so I'm trying to git this reinforcement completed quickly.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:49 PM   #554 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
Studs have those knock-outs for wiring, but the three-sided part is good for weight. How about a 10' length of ridge cap or electrical conduit?
I don't worry too much about the wiring knockouts as I don't plan on drilling in through the top layer of Coroplast.

I've given the metal EMT pipe some consideration before but I didn't want to add in any extra weight if I didn't have to. Thanks fer the suggestion!
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Old 05-30-2015, 08:43 PM   #555 (permalink)
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Here's two of the metal studs together...


A quick fab install...




Topside...


I still have to roll out the galvanized steel flashing and cut it so I can protect the topside from the canopy wearing into the lid.
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:40 PM   #556 (permalink)
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Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

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BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
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Got the steel flashing installed...




I think I will need to tape the outer edges down so the air doesn't git in there and rip the flashing out.

Time to make a quick run into Houston. Too bad I didn't git the main belly pan fixed back up and reinstalled.
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Old 05-31-2015, 02:55 PM   #557 (permalink)
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Are you asking because you secretly want my trailer?
I could eventually apply some features similar to your trailer if I would ever get an aerodynamically-enhanced one, but it's not likely to happen so soon.
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:21 AM   #558 (permalink)
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BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

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Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

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You can see how the rear of Dark Aero drops when I'm backing up. The rear is about 1" above the ground. The height of the ramp at the rear tire is about 6". You can see how the tail cone got ripped off the rear support when I was backing out of my driveway.
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:23 PM   #559 (permalink)
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That looks like an argument for having the wheel closer to the back. What other effects would follow, in your opinion?
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:56 PM   #560 (permalink)
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Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 current (2019) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5

BZP T-100 (2020) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
That looks like an argument for having the wheel closer to the back. What other effects would follow, in your opinion?
A longer wheelbase from the pivot point would create less road articulation/travel. This would minimize the amount of dampening required at the hitch.

I think at 7' from my rear bumper is almost the maximum length I would safely recommend. Extending the rear another 2' (9' total) may cause issues when making tight turns and still contacting vehicles/things on the outer part of yer turn. Keep in mind that I didn't fear the tail cone (18" longer) contacting as it wasn't as wide as the trailer was but the concern was still there. As far as I know, I never hit anything with the tail cone while making a turn. As it is, I dive into the corner as tight as I can just to make sure I'm not going to contact anything on the outer part of my turn.

I will have to make some measurements from the pivot point to the swivel point currently resides at. I'm not sure I want to mess with extending it further out just yet.

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