Fastener/mount suggestions:

[Capt. Pinbacker]

i want to start with installing a bellypan(do the most difficult thing first). Actually this won't be a full-fledged bellypan; It will cover the area between the framerail outboard to the body.

Do you have any fastener/mount suggestions or pictures?

Note that this is a chevy pickup so it's got full framerails from bumper-to-bumper. i'm thinking, right now, that heavy duty zipties might be sufficient. i will probably use masonite for the panels, since that is what i have lying around the house.

[darcane]

I made a frame using steel strips with pre-drilled holes (from Home Depot?). Since I couldn't get to the back of the frame when I put the belly pan on, I used speed nuts (aka spring nuts or U nuts, similar to these: 3/8"-16 Panel Range:.050"-.200" Center 3/4" Extruded U Nut | Fastenal) and small screws with washers, with Loctite blue.

Frame:


Belly pan:


Belly pan was on there for four years and never once had to do anything with it.

[grins2go_brett]

It depends on how heavy the Masonite is. If you used coroplast, you wouldn't need much more than screws. For the body side, you most likely have a pinch-weld that sticks down about an inch from the rest of the sheet metal. Drill and screw directly into the sheet metal on the frame side of the pinch weld. Use short screws no more than an inch long. That's an open area behind that sheet metal where you won't hurt anything. For the frame, one member here (AeroRV) attached a piece of wood to the bottom of his frame rails so he minimized the holes he had to drill into the frame, and could drill as many holes has he wanted into the wood, easily. Also, zip ties can work very well if the holes you have for attachment line up well.

[olds455]

I made mine out of 1/4" luan screwed into some wood pieces and metal as needed to jump across the large spans.

I've used masonite for concrete forms to make curves and it holds up OK, but you might not get a bunch of life out of it unless you spread the load out with more screws in a larger area for when it gets wet. The truck frame has enough holes in the lower flange to attach plenty of wood supports. The outside endge is the hard part. I drilled through the pich weld on the car to attach some more wood and then attached the Luan. I can't picture the bottom of the truck cab or bed right now to know if that will work. I always thought that I could do a no drill install of some flanges by screwing two strips of material together on top of each other, but with the car body in between one edge of the strips, leaving the screw to clamp the strips and give you a flange to attach the belly pan.

My profile has pictures of my Century's belly pan in it. It has been installed for quite a while with no issues and has certainly been wet many times.

[mcrews]

Originally Posted by Capt. Pinbacker

i want to start with installing a bellypan(
Do you have any fastener/mount suggestions or pictures?

.

Sorry, but you put it in bold.....

did you EVEN try to do a search of the ecomodder search button?????
I bet there are 50-60 threads WITH PICTURES....DETAILED PICTURES.....

I mean, you've been here since 2011......have you read ANY threads in 2 years......


but here is a hint...save you having to do any work......

see the third link in my signature.

[Otto]

Insert wood dowel rods or cheap aluminum tent poles of proper thickness into the flutes of the Coroplast wherever you need extra strength or stiffness. Ziptie around the dowel rods to suitable hard points on the vehicle, such as stabilizer bar cross piece, etc.

[freebeard]

Coroplast. Welding rod in the flutes with the ends bent into loops. Self-tapping sheet meatl screws. Ta Da!