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Old 06-10-2013, 03:52 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Had anyone looked or heard of Hi-Lo Rv company?



Pulled up next to one yesturday, ironically I think by the same suv? but maybe a slightly older model maybe early-mid 80's around 22-25ft length.. looked like a smooth transition from SUV to trailer as shown. has good weight distribution as the trailer and SUV were parallel to the road with little sqauting

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Old 06-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #172 (permalink)
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I finished my bike trailer today, now i can carry up to around 100 pounds of random stuff comfortably (the trailer will handle more but i dont think the bike will lol)



first test run, 10.6gal of fuel:


keen to give it a longer run with some groceries soon
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Nice job on the trailer. Your load will probably thank you for some pneumatic tires though.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:05 AM   #174 (permalink)
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That Hi-Lo trailer looks interesting, at least more resistant than those tent-trailers.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:11 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Well here's my trailer story...

I had a 1992 F150 4.9L 6cyl 5sp 2WD that I bought in 2011 for $1,000 and had for about two years. It was a damn good truck, and I do miss it. I decided to sell it because it sat most of the time, at my parents house, and I couldn't justify paying the registration, insurance, maintenance, and fuel costs when I did drive it.

I sold the truck (for $1,300 ) and promptly purchased a hitch and a trailer. I got a Curt Mfg hitch for my '02 Neon, cost was $225. Very good quality, install was a breeze, and it came with a draw bar- worth the $$ up-charge from the Reese or Hidden Hitch that I was looking at.

I picked up a PN 90154 4'x8' folding trailer from Harbor Freight for $232 including tax. Registration was somewhere around $60, and insurance is laughable at like $10/yr. Also at HF I got the 1 7/8" ball for $6.

Assembling the trailer wasn't too bad. I took my time. I read the reviews even before buying and it seems the thing most people had was with the wiring. I took extra care with that. I soldered and shrinked every connection. I ran convoluted tubing throughout, used grommets, p-clamps, and zip ties. I ran a ground to each light to avoid any grounding issues through the frame.

The other thing I took care with was the wheel bearings and seals. I replaced the "grease" with Mobil synthetic grease. I suck at removing seals intact, I ruined both of the originals. I had to do a bit of homework, but I found Timken replacements that I ordered from RockAuto, PN 223035. This is a 30x52x7mm seal. And they were $4/ea. I emailed Harbor Freight about replacement seals and of course they emailed me back like a week later, and 3 days after my Timken seals shipped. Here is an FYI for future reference for others:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbor Freight Customer Service Parts
The seals are available through our order department by dialing 800-423-2567. You will need to order SKU #27737. They are $5.99 per pack of 4.
You are welcome.

Maiden voyage/load:


Folded up #1:


Folded up #2:


One more note: I used a gate latch to hold the trailer folded. It was only $3, works well, and looks pretty, too:
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Old 06-15-2013, 03:42 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terror_storm View Post
The other thing I took care with was the wheel bearings and seals. I replaced the "grease" with Mobil synthetic grease. I suck at removing seals intact, I ruined both of the originals. I had to do a bit of homework, but I found Timken replacements that I ordered from RockAuto, PN 223035. This is a 30x52x7mm seal. And they were $4/ea. I emailed Harbor Freight about replacement seals and of course they emailed me back like a week later, and 3 days after my Timken seals shipped. Here is an FYI for future reference for others:
Yes it turns out the grease that comes on those bearing is not bearing grease, just corrosion preventer.
Always repack new bearings.
Best way to get rid of the old grease out of bearings for some one who doesn't have a parts washer is to use a car wash sprayer blast the grease away and followed by a good paper towel drying.
You can get those bearing and seals at any northern tool, most tractor supply stores they are in the trailer section.
Its a real common seal and bearing size if you had the part number any auto parts store should have them too.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:28 AM   #177 (permalink)
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I have the same trailer, super heavily modified (converted from bolt together to fully welded), has a rear class 3 hitch with its own flat 4 connector (double trailer'n time), has reverse lights, amber clearance and blinkers near the front and did I mention its 100% LED? Also has flat 4 and and 7 prong RV connector up front (so it can be pulled by different vehicles) all the wiring (so far) is being run through the old bolt together holes I linned with rubber gromets, painted with black truck bed linner and a few other mods.

I plan on adding a tool box light and some work lights later on.

Pics coming soon
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:23 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Looks like alot of people have harbor freight trailers
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #179 (permalink)
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I tested my full LED setup on my trailer, only took 0.82 amps to light them all up.
I also have reverse lights and extra side markers that most people don't have.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:53 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Gave my trailer its first test run the other day... a few teething problems with some epic speed wobbles encountered when it was empty but it also proved its strength!


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