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Old 02-18-2015, 03:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The t n t t connection is the usual W's . tntt . com

Without the spaces, of course.

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Old 02-18-2015, 06:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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For whatever reason I found it at tnttt.com
Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers.
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Old 02-18-2015, 02:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I thought about glass over foam, but I also saw this company SingCore - Patented Honeycomb Torsion Box Panels | New inventions are making the world a better place.
they are near Olympia, Wa close enough for me to pick up and their 4'x8' 2" thick panels with plywood on each side are $160. I don't know how much more to make them aluminum on one side.
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Old 02-18-2015, 06:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
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VA 3400-lb trailer will have a tongue weight of 525-lbs. What is needed is a weight distributing hitch once TW goes above 350-lbs. Suspension mods to the rear of the tow vehicle are NOT wanted as they make a bad situation worse (braking & handling). The new Reese SC would be my choice as it has an integrated amount of antisway built in. One needs to set the bars so as to return the weight on the tow vehicle front end to what it was when solo. You could also look at the Andersen hitch with such a light TW.

Once you have serviced bearings and brakes plus had alignment done (to better than the usual 1/4" trailer spec), the tires I would recommend are the MAXXIS UE168. Not any ST type. Were it mine I would add upgraded equalizers and wet bolt kit plus a shock absorber kit. These will net you increased wheel travel plus stability and cooler running tires. Better trailer tracking despite problems encountered.

The hitch as mentioned plus the rest will significantly reduce the tug on the tow vehicle exerted by the trailer. It will seem lighter. If you will replace the TV antiroll bar bushings with polyurethane plus add BILSTEIN shocks that vehicle will be much more enjoyable in every type of driving. The TV tires can also be improved over OEM.

A new breakaway switch, a new seven way, and LED exterior lamps. Chains should EACH be able to handle trailer eight and must attached to other than the hitch receiver.

Folks usually put these off till the end, but it is best to do them first.

Last edited by slowmover; 02-18-2015 at 06:49 PM..
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Old 02-18-2015, 08:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What hitch would you recommend for a 1/4 ton utility trailer or a tiny teardrop?

Also what's a 'wet bolt kit'?
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Old 02-18-2015, 11:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Stock the advertised empty weight is 2760#, hitch weight 350#, and max weight 3900#. The Aspen is rated to tow 8,800# and curb weight is 5050#.
I believe my modifications to the roof will make the trailer lighter but still with 1000# of gear and fluids will put it right around 3500#. The Aspen (and similar Durango that year) was built on a full frame and is near the size of the 1500 Ram sharing most suspension parts. The earlier ones were smaller and the later ones not built body on frame. We are coming from a 2500 crew cab, long bed Sierra 2500 Duramax so I know what you mean by small TV but it's really not that small LOL!
I will get a distributing hitch if we tow it with our minivan (which is rated for 3500#), but with the Aspen I think I will try it first. Towing it home it was rock steady. I will replace the bearings but the tires look newer, they are only 13" load range B at 1100# each but there are 4 of them. Why don't you like ST tires? I think I would have to go bigger to get LT tires on there. I will probably go with a C or a D load rating when these wear out.

The thing I worry about is I want to add a slide out exterior sink/BBQ on the rear bumper but will hopefully offset with a small window A/C in the front sidewall. The only time it might get weird is if the front clean water tank has been emptied and now resides in the rear grey and black water tanks. Would just need to dump before going far.
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:43 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MobilOne View Post
You may be interested in the teardrops and tiny travel trailers site. Especially look at "foamies".
The rear hatch of a teardrop trailer could eventually be turned into an expandable module, with some fold-away panels to enclose its sides and the rear end.
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Well after doing some inspection on the damage for now I'm just going to rebuild the stock roof. I can do it for less then $100. Rebuilding it with a different design I think I would be $1000 into it. So say I get 15mpg with it the way hi-lo built it, best case I get 17-18 all tricked out. Pulling it only 500-1000 miles a year would take forever to recover the money.
I may try a few smaller ideas like a front nosecone that fill the gap better or skinning the belly.
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Old 02-26-2015, 02:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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So... sanity prevails?

I Googled 'wet bolt kit', so I'm good.
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Old 02-27-2015, 07:08 PM   #20 (permalink)
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If you want more you can make a cheap boat tail to dangle off the back, easily done and removable for tight quarters.

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