CarBEN Model -- 1/24th scale model and 3D computer model for EV

[Dr. Jerryrigger]

Originally Posted by lunarhighway

perhaps for windows you could look into a one part aircraft type cupolas. these are manifactured by vacuum forming plastic over a mold. it will still be expensive but i imagine it would cost less than individual windows, wich might still be interesting to have to prevent heating, but i imagine they could be masked off and the rest be painted (also the paint could be semi transparent). a single piece would also eliminate inevitable seems and be lighter than a multy part system. given the rear slope a transparent rear roof might be more usefull than the two rear windows perhaps similar smaller parts could be used in the nose cone. alowing for simpler cheaper lights to be installed without any interruptions in the shape.

the car would than need some sort of roll cage to be safe but this could from internal window pillars and be used as an attachement point for the cuppola and the interior trim

anyway just an idea

I don't know if you could get a car inspected with one of those. I think the safest bet is to find a pre-fab windshield that would closely fit the design you have, and then redesign a little to make it work

[NeilBlanchard]

Do you want me to send you the SketchUp file? You can download SketchUp for free from Google. I might even try dropping the CarBEN model into a Boston street in Google Earth and see it in context...

I think the windows in the CarBEN would have to be Lexan or similar. Ideally, they would be low-E coated to reduce the heat gain, but that is later on.

The alternate to the bandsaw is an orbital jig saw -- fast cutting is needed since I have to make between 30 and 60 ribs (3"-6" apart!) and many of the cuts are 6-9 feet long.

The shape of the windshield is critical to the aerodynamics, and I don't think I can find anything even remotely close to what is required for this design.

New texture (obviously), and intake vent added (just under the front license plate). I added two of the 5'-9" tall figures from SketchUp for scale reference.



I made a few other subtle adjustments, including recessing the windows a bit so that they show up on the sections, and so they will be flush when the glazing is installed.

I'm leaning back to doing a fiberglass shell with steel tube chassis on the first one, because I am not confident that I could execute the structural mounting points, and reinforcing, etc. that a monocoque would require. So, the starting point is the same. The other snag is the band saw in my neighbor's wood shop is broken... I gotta' see if my friend building the airplane is done with his, or buy a used one. :-/

[Dr. Jerryrigger]

Delta 16 inch Motorized Band Saw.

[NeilBlanchard]

There's a spelling change in the name, so that folks don't think I've spelled "carbon" wrong. Smile It is now spelled "CarBŒN".

I've added the 1 foot grid: 3' x 15' on the ground plane, 3' x 6' on the front and back, and 6' x 15' on the right side; for visual scale and perspective reference.

[RobertSmalls]

Mmm... diffuser strakes...

:/ I don't have an œ key on my keyboard, and I don't know how to pronounce bœn. Is it like the French boën (a la noël), or as in the German bön, containing a phoneme we lack in English?

Btw, I don't think you've ever told us what the BEN stands for.

[Patrick]

Originally Posted by RobertSmalls

Btw, I don't think you've ever told us what the BEN stands for.

From his Web Blog: "CarBŒN: it is a play on the word carbon (I want to not waste any), and the change in spelling are my initials backwards; combined with the correct spelling... :-)"

[NeilBlanchard]

I would pronounce it "KAR-ben" -- the same as carbon?

Next step is to simplify the windshield, and tweak the headlights, and to try and work out more details on how the front wheel articulated panels work...

[NeilBlanchard]

I've modified the windshield and flanking windows, the headlights, and a few other minor tweaks. Here's a buncha' piktchas'

Link to my blog: http://neilblanchard.blogspot.com/20...e-project.html

[Rokeby]

Originally Posted by NeilBlanchard

... The alternate to the bandsaw is an orbital jig saw -- fast cutting is needed since I have to make between 30 and 60 ribs (3"-6" apart!) and many of the cuts are 6-9 feet long...

Neil,

I would caution against using the orbital jig (saber) saw for what you are
planning to do.

I've made thousands of feet of cuts forming the station moulds used for
building round bottom boats. The cuts need to be very consistent and
accurate so that you don't waste hours hand planing or belt sanding them
"to the line."

Like a band saw the saber saw will permit free-hand curves. But it is very
difficult to get consistent curves on both sides of the panel.

Because only one end of the blade is mounted in the saw, the blade is not
tensioned. The unsecured end of the blade can drift off-line quite
dramatically; up to 1/4" in a 3/4" panel! This results because it is
nearly impossible not to apply a sideways push when cutting a curve. And the
faster you cut, the more deviation there is. It is also extremely difficult not
to get variations -- they are smaller, but still noticeable -- when making
corrections to keep to a straight line.

For consistently accurate cuts that are identical on both sides of the panel, I
recommend that you hold out for the band saw... you'll be glad that you did.

[NeilBlanchard]

I'm pretty sure I'll use a band saw!

The headlights are shown at exactly 6" diameter -- I was thinking an LED projector fixture?

Now, I've got to make the windshield glass