04-20-2011, 04:04 PM
|
#251 (permalink)
|
...beats walking...
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: .
Posts: 6,190
Thanks: 179
Thanked 1,525 Times in 1,126 Posts
|
...try "enclosing" the air-stream somewhat by placing back (righthand side) & roof (upper) panels around your model to get a somewhat more "linear: front-to-back" airflow path around your model, ie: a 3-sided box.
...actually, a 4-sided box, with one being clear plastic, would be better.
|
|
|
Today
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
04-22-2011, 03:23 AM
|
#252 (permalink)
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Carolina, USA
Posts: 15
Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
Neil, Best of luck on your conquest. I think its a great looking design. Looks like it would cut the wind rather well. I sure like the idea of starting out with the shell first. I hope you have surrounded yourself with some very talented friends to help grease the wheels on your project. My project is a electric S10. I think my only hope at making it slippery will be going low, a good air dam on the front and some sort of wedge bed topper.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to BadDog98 For This Useful Post:
|
|
04-22-2011, 03:32 AM
|
#253 (permalink)
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: South Carolina, USA
Posts: 15
Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
What about the blowers used to dry out wet carpet. They may not blow as fast as the leaf blowers but should flow a great deal more air I would expect. I wouldn't think the rental would be much to find out either. Any buddies in the carpet cleaning or water restoration business?
|
|
|
05-08-2011, 09:58 AM
|
#254 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,908
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,952 Times in 1,845 Posts
|
I've arched the trailing roofline -- there is 1-2" more headroom in the passengers seats now, and I think the air flow will be better, too.
I was also considering slightly elongated the front, as well, but I think the aero is better with it as it is?
|
|
|
05-09-2011, 09:27 AM
|
#255 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,908
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,952 Times in 1,845 Posts
|
Question for those of you who have built with fiberglass: would using a glue like Elmer's Wood glue be possible/good on the fiberglass? I'm concerned both about the VOC of more conventional glues, and the biodegradability of the material.
|
|
|
05-09-2011, 06:23 PM
|
#256 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,908
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,952 Times in 1,845 Posts
|
Two new images, with the roof just above the windshield a lot smoother, and two hard chines on the hatch; which I like because along with the "spine" on the hatch, they tie into the three hard chines on the hood and front fenders.
I think what is happening with the front tufts, is that since I am only using 3 blowers in the second video, the air flow is not like it would be with a car on the road or a model in a wind tunnel. It is flowing sideways because there is no moving air to the sides.
I am really debating whether or not I elongate the hood. like the 1/4 scale model. The foam in the front section was supposed to be 1/2" thick, but was in fact over 9/16", so it "grew". I like the looks of this, but I thin kthe air flow of the shorter hood (in the SketchUp model) will be better -- because it will accelerate the air more quickly out and around the car, it then will close down more quickly, and this will help the air stay attached, and lower the drag, all else being equal I think?
Last edited by NeilBlanchard; 05-09-2011 at 11:21 PM..
|
|
|
05-10-2011, 01:08 PM
|
#257 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,908
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,952 Times in 1,845 Posts
|
|
|
|
05-11-2011, 09:50 AM
|
#258 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,908
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,952 Times in 1,845 Posts
|
Can folks tell me if they know of any front wheel drive cars in current / recent production that have low height front suspension? Like a double wishbone / A-arm layout, that could fit in the CarBEN EV? It might be possible to fit McPherson struts in there, but I'm not sure on that, and this may have to wait until I get the shell built to see what will fit. There will probably need to be a tube steel front subframe.
Edit: The struts are typically canted back and inward, aren't they? Hmmm, that might just fit actually -- the tops of the struts would be near the lower outside corners of the windshield at the base of the 'A' pillars, I think? So, maybe McPherson struts would fit?
On the rear suspension, I'm thinking about trailing arms, with a lateral arm for stability possibly? The rear suspension needs to be slim to fit within the inner fenders I have modeled and I don't have room for a beam axle; because of the battery pack.
Last edited by NeilBlanchard; 05-11-2011 at 09:57 AM..
|
|
|
05-11-2011, 09:55 AM
|
#259 (permalink)
|
Building the future! :-)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: orlando
Posts: 177
Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 11 Posts
|
Thats a toughie Neil, but I believe most of the civic line had double wishbones and struts, might could be adapted to traditional springs?
I was also looking at air springs in an effort to get the hood line down on a front wheel drive homebuilt..
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to todayican For This Useful Post:
|
|
05-11-2011, 10:02 AM
|
#260 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maynard, MA Eaarth
Posts: 7,908
Thanks: 3,475
Thanked 2,952 Times in 1,845 Posts
|
Eventually, I would need to work on ride leveling, and regenerative shock absorbers, too. You're right -- Civics have very low hoodlines and so they are probably a good place to start. That, and they solved torque steer long ago.
|
|
|
|