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Old 10-14-2009, 06:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Why install a high flow filter when you only draw 3-4k revs? Its like putting in a high speed part for no reason? Well I'm glad others have appreciated inventive and experienced advice.

At 3-4,000 rpm stick with your original setup for economy

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Old 10-15-2009, 05:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueflame View Post
Why install a high flow filter when you only draw 3-4k revs? Its like putting in a high speed part for no reason? Well I'm glad others have appreciated inventive and experienced advice.

At 3-4,000 rpm stick with your original setup for economy
Like I've said, (three times now already ), I had different priorities then than now.

Depending on what kind of numbers I get on this tank I may or may not shove the airbox back in.
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, the airbox is going back in. Had some carb icing a few days ago which left me stuck at work due to fouled plugs. Since I never had that problem with the airbox...

But damn this thing is a complete ***** to get in.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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why not use a wide-band oxygen meter to dial-in your carbs?
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You can also use a cheap or used narrow band sensor and a volt meter to get pretty close. With the narrow band sensor your mixture needs to be close enough to get it to occaisionally vary between rich and lean of stoich with atmospheric conditions, then you know you are close.

Mount it as close to the head as reasonable so it can stay hot and read accurately.

Nearly all carb'd bikes could benefit from more accurate mixture tuning.
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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One trick I've been previously criticized on other forums for is disabling the accelerator pump. A lot of small engined economy bikes use off the shelf carbs meant for bigger bikes but then down jetted for smaller displacement. One place that may get overlooked is accelerator pumps. Sometimes they slip through the oem tuning cracks. One prime example is the yamaha vino 125. It's a well known fact that disabling the accelerator pump on them will get you from a relatively gas guzzling 65 mpg all the way up to 85-90 mpg, which is right where it should be as my genuine buddy 125 could achieve 90 mpg.

On my Baja SC50 pep boys scooter, stock it got 75 mpg, terrible especially for a 50cc scooter, after disabling the accelerator pump I get 110 mpg with no hypermiling technique, just day in day out 110 mpg. With hypermiling I can get 120-125 mpg. Now the amazing part is the scooter actually runs better without it. Surprise surprise just like the vino 125

Now I used to have a honda rebel 250. It got about 70 mpg. But by disabling the accelerator pump and being careful of revs and shift technique I did manage to get 102 mpg on it. It wasn't entirely without trouble, if you cracked open the throttle from idle in neutral there was a delay in the revving up of the engine but other that that it ran pretty smooth, I think in these small engine cv carbs the accelerator pump is often pumping too much gas, in the honda rebel it practically was a squirt gun down the carb throat every time to twist the throttle.
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Old 03-17-2010, 06:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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One trick I've been previously criticized on other forums for is disabling the accelerator pump.
Unless I'm mistaken, I don't think there is an accelerator pump on these carbs. They're Keihin CVK30's.

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