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Old 05-08-2014, 10:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NachtRitter View Post
Not sure why you say that...? Coasting in neutral is effective on any vehicle when the conditions call for it... If one needs to use brakes when coasting in neutral, then it's not being done right.
I meant coasting downhill

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Old 05-09-2014, 06:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. So the general consensus seems to be, if you need the added engine drag (to avoid braking) then leave the car in gear when coasting. Otherwise, shift to neutral and idle down the hill?
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Yes but not just downhill , you will find you can coast up to lights and anywhere where acceleration is not needed , you pick how much neutral coasting you want to do and do it.
Such as pulse n glide with a neutral glide.
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Old 05-10-2014, 05:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I only usually coast downhills, I'll start trying in other places too.

When coasting, is shifting to neutral necessary? Or is fuel usage the same staying in-gear with the clutch fully pressed-in?
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The result is the same, the engine is disconnected from the transmission gears.
When the clutch is fully engaged it is not wearing , just when being engaged or dis engaged.

Using it as smooth and gently as possible will extend its life, some drivers get 500,000km out of their clutch , mine has 210,000km on it and is working normally.

Try not to jolt it or ride the clutch when accelerating, the jolts can break it and the slow release will wear a slick surface on it that makes the clutch feel weak with little grip when engaging.
If you do wear a hard slick surface on the clutch from slow dragged out clutch work you can "fix it" by shifting proper for 2-4 months till it wears the slick surface off and replaces it with its normal surface,just by clean fast clutch work.


A fast shift will require less clutch time / clutch wear
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:13 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Coasting in gear with the clutch fully pressed-in may still increase more of its durability than clutching, shifting to neutral, clutching again and engaging a gear. Clutch wear doesn't increase in the meantime it's fully pressed-in.
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Old 05-10-2014, 02:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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My take on the clutch thing is if you press in the clutch, your clutch bearing might wear a little faster but clutches need to be replaced anyways and it's usually the friction material that goes not the bearing. Shifting in and out of gear will put extra wear on the synchros which are much harder to replace than the clutch.
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Old 05-10-2014, 03:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I've seen t-bearings give out first but typically only on cars that see a clutch last 250k. I think the highest I remember is a 200SX with 546k on the original clutch. 110 mile round trip commute daily.

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Old 05-10-2014, 03:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I don't worry about clutch/bearing wear, it is like $100 in parts and a fancy nut and bolt puzzle (that comes already assembled!), every ~150,000 miles/10 years. Whereas if you worry about driving to double your mileage (say from 23 to 46) you will save another ~$12,000 in fuel costs.
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Old 05-11-2014, 01:19 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
I've seen t-bearings give out first but typically only on cars that see a clutch last 250k. I think the highest I remember is a 200SX with 546k on the original clutch. 110 mile round trip commute daily.
The longest-lasting clutch in a daily-driver with most city traffic commuting was 75000 miles in an Opel Corsa Caravan with the 1.0L 16-valve engine.

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