Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Aerodynamics
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 10-24-2015, 04:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
wildman10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: London, UK
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Cooling Duct Thoughts, and Help!

I've 2 reasons for being here on ecomodder. The first is to get the most mileage out of my main car and the second is to get the best performance and mileage out of non-standard second car, a Mazda RX8 with the normally-aspirated engine replaced with a turbo-charged unit generating twice the power.

I'm writing down my thoughts as I progress through the conversion. My latest subject is the aerodynamics of cooling systems, a draft for which I add in the post beneath this one.

If you have an interest in aerodynamics then please read my draft and give me some feedback, particularly over the last section: the best compromise on ducting if the available space is less than 2 radiator heights long.

Thanks for any comments.

__________________
Old age and experience will always beat youth and enthusiasm. Failing that, older people know more tricks and can afford better lawyers.
3 projects:
Designing systems for turbo-charged engine in Mazda RX8 and aerodynamic modding for mpg on road and performance on track
Mazda RX8 R3 for improved mpg (currently 17 mpUSg)
2001 Honda Accord 2.3 for improved mpg (currently 29 mpUSg in sedate driving)
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 10-24-2015, 04:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
wildman10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: London, UK
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
AERODYNAMICS OF COOLING FOR RX8 TURBO CONVERSION

INTRODUCTION

This is a short article written during the conversion of a Mazda RX8 with twice the power using a 13B REW engine from a Mazda RX7 FD and a single turbo (the FD has twin sequential small turbos). This conversion introduces an extra cooling component, an intercooler, to a cooling system that has to cope with twice the power in the same space.

An engine generates large amounts of heat and an RX8 gets rid of it by 2 oil coolers exhausting into the front wheel wells and a radiator exhausting predominantly over the engine. Some of the radiator exhaust evacuates through the wheel wells and side vents, the latter being of little practical value as it has a narrow and convoluted path (ie the side vents are purely a styling feature. This arrangement is pretty typical of modern cars, combining as it does simplicity, cheapness and ease of manufacture.

Improving this system within the limits of the bodywork to cater for an engine generating over twice the power with a turbo system piling on even more heat is, to say the least, an interesting task requiring a lot of compromises.

Don’t assume that manufacturers have got things right. From cars through to early models of iconic aircraft such as the German JU87 Stuka dive bomber and Bf 109 fighter, designers have things horribly wrong.

We need to cool not only the engine but also air conditioning where fitted, the turbo, gearbox and other items such as the brake fluid reservoir and ignition system that are affected by heat from the engine.

SOME AERODYNAMIC THEORY AND PRACTICE ON DUCTING

Introduction

Most theory and research relates to aircraft engines and there is little beyond the 1940s, when efforts turned to jet engines. Despite the differences of speed and aerodynamic pressures, both theory and practice hold up reasonably well when translating from aircraft to cars, albeit that optimum values change (Reynolds Number Effects).

General Arrangement

Put a radiator in an air flow and the vast majority of the air will spill over the sides of the radiator creating large amounts of drag. Ducting is needed in front and behind the radiator to take only the air required and introduce it back into the air flow. Air will only flow through a radiator if there is a pressure difference across it and efficient cooling needs the air going through the radiator to be turbulent. The least drag and best cooling occurs where the air inlet’s height is 1/6-1/3 of the radiator’s at one radiator height ahead of the radiator and its exit is 115% of this to allow for heat expansion, again at one radiator height from the radiator. The rate of flow is entirely controlled by the exit height. A properly designed aircraft duct will actually generate thrust rather than drag from the Meredith Effect where the radiator heat gives the cooling air extra energy, as was the case for the legendary P51 Mustang fighter.

The ideal way to exhaust cooling air is into the freestream flow in the same direction and speed. In a car this means through a ducted vent in the front of the bonnet where pressures are low and through vents behind the rear wheels. Other places are the wheel wells, over the engine then underneath the body. An often-quoted study of cooling arrangements gives the following analysis:


(i) Speed through Radiator As Propn of Car Speed (ii) Contribution to Cd (Drag Coefficient)
A (Front mount venting into engine bay): (i) 27% (ii) 0.025
B (Front mount ducted to wheel well): (i) 14% (52% of A) (ii) 0.020 (80% of A)
C (Ducted to bonnet/hood): (i) 25% (93% of A) (ii) 0.010 (40% of A)
D (Top-mount inlet ducted to underside): (i) 10% (37% of A) (ii) 0.020 (80% of A)
These figures are indicative only. For example, the way that arrangement C directs the exhaust air has an appreciable effect on the Cd value.

Inlet Configuration

The radiator requires such a large air mass flow that a forward-facing duct is needed, as low down as possible on the front of the car where pressures are highest. Fancy arrangements such as NACA ducts have inadequate air flows and pressure recovery. Bonnet/hood scoops are inefficient and are generally difficult to integrate with possible radiator locations.

The inlet configuration must have a rounded lip and smooth transition along its length in order to avoid flow separation that will choke the duct and hence reduce pressure recovery and increase drag. The simplest duct shape, one with straight sides angled outwards, is known as a rectangular duct; it should have sides angled at no more than 11 degrees to the inlet air flow, which requires long duct lengths of over twice the radiator height.

As outlined earlier, inlet heights of 1/6 to 1/3 the radiator height one radiator height ahead of the radiator give optimum balances of air flow and cooling drag. Surprising to most people, theoretical and practical analyses show that the cooling drag is the same regardless of radiator height, provided the inlet walls avoid flow separation. Larger inlets produce more drag overall because the car’s fixed-size radiator effectively limits the air passing through and so they slow and spill large quantities of air that create more drag than if deflected by a smaller inlet.

The optimum velocity for the air presented to the radiator is a balance between cooling efficiency, where (all other things equal) higher velocities give better cooling, and pressure drop across the radiator (and hence drag) where higher velocities give higher drops and hence higher drag.

Radiator Position

In general, the radiator should be mounted as low down as possible in order to lower the car’s centre of gravity and may be angled by up to 30 degrees without appreciably reducing cooling efficiency. As far as is practical with other considerations, the radiator should be as near to the engine as practical in order to reduce weight, cost and coolant volume.

Exit Configuration

The exit ducting converges to accelerate the exhaust air and therefore has a negative pressure gradient. This means that the rate of change of the duct area is much less important than for the inlet diffuser.

Ideally the exhaust air should be exhausted from an exit perpendicular to the freestream flow. However, we cannot do this. The typical production car method of exhausting through the engine bay underside is relatively inefficient as it creates drag from the exhaust air’s bouncing around off the car’s rough underside. Air could be ducted out of side vents or into the front wheel wells but, in general, the only reasonable alternative to the bottom of the engine bay is the bonnet/hood. The pressures across the bonnet change from very low at the bonnet lip to slightly positive at the windscreen base, so the earlier the exhaust air exits from the bonnet the better.

The diagram below shows 4 alternative designs of exit through a bonnet/hood showing differences in the measures of pressure and drag (Cp and Cd respectively).


In A, B and C the exhaust air flowing along the plate generates lift from its higher velocity (and hence lower static pressure), differential pressure on the shape creates drag and the freestream flow creates a turbulent boundary layer at the junction of the 2 flows, generating drag. In case D, however, the 2 flows mix violently, creating a thick turbulent boundary layer that raises the pressure on the plate after the lower pressure of the exit, creating a roughly zero change in Cp; the additional drag from the turbulent boundary layer is largely offset by the saving in drag from not having differential pressures across a cowl, resulting in only a small increase in drag.

A Gurney flap (basically a short vertical plate) ahead of a bonnet vent will help pull air out of a vent by lowering the pressure behind it at the expense of some extra drag. This is why you see a hump ahead at the front of vents in many carbon fibre bonnets/hoods.

If air is passed across the engine or attached systems such as a turbocharger, it should be exhausted through vents in, by order of preference, the bonnet, bodywork sides behind the front wheel, wheel wells and engine bay underside. Air ducted out of the bottom of the engine bay should be as far back as possible and if practical in line with the car underside.

AERODYNAMICS OF COMPROMISE

The above is all well and good, but the confines of the RX8 engine bay mean that there is inadequate space to duct fully the 4 radiator systems (intercooler, engine coolant, oil cooling and air conditioning). We can rule the air conditioning radiator out as we can either put it immediately in front of the coolant radiator or by removing the air conditioning altogether, so that leaves us with 3 radiators to duct. One possible compromise is to put the oil coolers in a duct just over one cooler height in length venting into the front wheel wells, the intercooler in a duct around 1.6 times the intercooler height and the coolant radiator at the end of and inlet duct 1 radiator height in length and venting over the engine, turbo and gearbox.

I can find no scholarly or practical articles on the best arrangement should the ducting available be less than 2 radiator heights in length. On first principles, I think that we have 2 least-bad alternatives:
• For the intercooler, build the exhaust duct 1 radiator height long and exiting at ¼*115% radiator height and the inlet duct as long as possible with an inlet height matching a ¼ height full length arrangement.
• For the oil cooler, build the inlet duct at ½ length and exhaust through an exit duct shaped to exit air downwards in front of each wheel.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	4RadCoolingDuctOptions.png
Views:	162
Size:	28.3 KB
ID:	18940   Click image for larger version

Name:	CoolingExitCdCp.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	111.4 KB
ID:	18941  
__________________
Old age and experience will always beat youth and enthusiasm. Failing that, older people know more tricks and can afford better lawyers.
3 projects:
Designing systems for turbo-charged engine in Mazda RX8 and aerodynamic modding for mpg on road and performance on track
Mazda RX8 R3 for improved mpg (currently 17 mpUSg)
2001 Honda Accord 2.3 for improved mpg (currently 29 mpUSg in sedate driving)

Last edited by wildman10; 10-25-2015 at 04:44 AM.. Reason: Formatted failed table, updated wording (Tx Freebeard)
  Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to wildman10 For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (10-24-2015), MobilOne (10-25-2015)
Old 10-24-2015, 04:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aerohead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sanger,Texas,U.S.A.
Posts: 15,895
Thanks: 23,972
Thanked 7,223 Times in 4,650 Posts
thoughts

Inspect the 1978 Pininfarina CNR,by Professor Morelli to study this tour de force in extractor technology


__________________
Photobucket album: http://s1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/aerohead2/
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to aerohead For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (10-24-2015)
Old 10-24-2015, 09:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
freebeard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: northwest of normal
Posts: 27,695
Thanks: 7,775
Thanked 8,584 Times in 7,068 Posts
Quote:
Arrangement Speed through Radiator As Propn of Car Speed Contribution to Cd (Drag Coefficient)
A Front mount venting into engine bay 27% 0.025
B Front mount ducted to wheel well 14% (52% of A) 0.020 (80% of A)
C Ducted to bonnet/hood 25% (93% of A) 0.010 (40% of A)
D Top-mount inlet ducted to underside 10% (37% of A) 0.020 (80% of A)
These figures are indicative only. For example, ducting exhaust air from arrangement C along rather than perpendicular to the bonnet will reduce the increase in Cd.


Quote:
• For the oil cooler, build the inlet duct at ½ length and exhaust through an exit duct shaped to exit air downwards in front of each wheel.
Or duct across the face of the tire and exhaust in a curtain across the face of the front wheel.

There are aerospace coatings that increase hear emissivity. Dip your radiator and heat exchangers in that.
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2015, 10:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 34
Thanks: 1
Thanked 26 Times in 17 Posts
Well, you picked a challenging vehicle to improve! Plus, racing and efficiency pull mods in the opposite direction. Here's the fuelly history of my 2006 RX-8:

Batmobile (Mazda RX-8) | Fuelly

Before putting a big wing on the back and getting onto a track, I could regularly do ~22 mpg of mostly highway driving and ~24mpg with the AccessPort "economy" tune loaded. Pushing as hard as I could on mountain roads, the worst I could manage was 13.5 mpg and on a track, 7.9 mpg! With every other car I've had, beating the EPA estimates was easy - not this one, however.

For reference, here are a list of my current mods:
RX8Club.com - HiFlite999's vBGarage

Also, there's a guy on the RX-8 forum who has done a lot of work, both with N/A and turbocharging with efficiency as a priority. Here's one of his threads - an interesting story:
Harlan's Impossible turbo build. - RX8Club.com

In terms of aero - detailed extrapolations from the world of 400 mph, 2000 hp, 1940's airplanes is of limited use. The Reynold's Number is very different from cars as are the thermo considerations in dealing with 100 gph's worth of heat. Also, manufacturers and racers have discovered that what may work well at 20,000 feet, does not work so well 6 inches from the ground. Additionally, what may work with an 80 mph wind blown against a parked car, works differently when the air is moving only relative to the car (hence moving road wind tunnels).

Careful venting of cooling air may help slightly and may help cooling significantly, but is unlikely to make much of a difference in the overall drag. Why? First, the car is too short, or, saying the same thing really, the maximum height of the car is reached too far toward the rear. A piece of evidence supporting this view is Mazda's claim that its "breadbasket" optional "spoiler" reduced Cd from .31 to .30 which is a pretty big difference for a small piece of plastic. The "spoiler" is not producing downforce but extending the airflow out a bit towards the teardrop ideal. Second, the stock tires are already 225 wide and best cornering requires at least 245 or 265. That's a bunch of drag. Wheel covers might help, but will cause the brakes to overheat quickly if the car is being pushed. Even narrow tires still leave the huge wheel wells designed to fit large ones. Third, the suspension is great, but very complicated, making a clean underside difficult.

All that being said, IMO, there are a few mods that have a chance of helping with Cd. First, lower the car, which is desirable on the track anyway. Don't go too far, about 3 cm will still maintain good suspension geometry. Second, do something about the stock rear bumper cover. As is, it's a great scoop for air that's flowing under the car. Extend it forward to mesh with the underbody. However, since that would also cover the stock muffler, some thought will have to go into muffler location and cover materials. As is, I've seen modded RX-8s set the rear bumper cover on fire from exhaust heat.

Eliminate any pathways for incoming air to go around the radiator and oil coolers. Use the best possible radiator (which would have to be custom made for your Series II car):
MAZMART - Serving The Mazda Community Since 1980. REMEDY RX8 Radiator - 04-08 MT
And water pump, and every other cooling component. Then slowly close off the radiator opening until it runs okay with minimum airflow.

I found this, plumbed into the heater core circuit, to be useful in controlling temperatures:
ACS BASIC MT by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com

Remember, a single excursion of water temps to ~235 degrees is enough to blow the coolant seals and ruin the engine.

I'm also pretty convinced that a front splitter will improve airflow around the car and through the cooling inlets.
  Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to HiFlite For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (10-25-2015), MobilOne (10-25-2015)
Old 10-25-2015, 06:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
wildman10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: London, UK
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Guys, thanks. I'm rushing around for a while so some quick points until I can think over and research your info:
* I've changed my format and wording on the 4 ducting methods to be clearer/less confusing (table in Word gone bad here).
* I, too, am wary of the effects of Re for cars rather than aircraft, where our viscous forces are relatively more important, and I know there are significant differences for heat transfer. However, I have seen nothing on the lines of "x works in aircraft, but on cars with lower Re that doesn't work and we have to do y". Our far lower values of 1/2RhoV^2 make some things just not worth doing, but that is a different issue.
* As we are going into greater depths on RX8s, I'll add some more detail. The 13B REW conversion means that I have a clean sheet for the engine bay; I've put the battery in the boot, moved the engine bay electronics to behind the bumper to make way for the turbo's air inlet components and thrown out the RX8's oil and coolant radiators and piping (the coolant system is now inadequate and I have to fit new oil hoses where a kit with 2 radiators costs little more than the hoses alone). I bought her as a done project that turned out to require drastic surgery (the builder is an engine rebuild trader; he may know about the engines but he is useless at conversion design and bodged all the work he did). Her terrible mpg (the ECO gadget on my standard RX8 shows less than 20/16 UK/US mpg overall and as low as 7.8/6.6 UK/US mpg on track days) perversely makes eco measures even more important.
My suspension will lower her by 18mm/0.75in and my front splitter and sump guard will add 10-20mm/0.4-0.8in. I don't want to go any lower/stiffer as UK roads are in poor condition.
I'm looking at smoothing the underside but have to give priority to cooling the gearbox and am wary of trapping heat from the exhaust box under the boot/trunk (I've noticed the boot can get warm on standard RX8s).
I'm looking to fit a rear wing and a splitter extension (takes 1" splitter out to 4") for track days, leaving them off for most normal driving to avoid damage and unnecessary drag. I may fit a diffuser but am sceptical of any benefit.
__________________
Old age and experience will always beat youth and enthusiasm. Failing that, older people know more tricks and can afford better lawyers.
3 projects:
Designing systems for turbo-charged engine in Mazda RX8 and aerodynamic modding for mpg on road and performance on track
Mazda RX8 R3 for improved mpg (currently 17 mpUSg)
2001 Honda Accord 2.3 for improved mpg (currently 29 mpUSg in sedate driving)
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to wildman10 For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (10-25-2015)
Old 10-25-2015, 07:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
wildman10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: London, UK
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
I couldn't find anything in those references that affected my write-up.

I dug up some old work on aircraft radiators here.

The optimum cooling air speed for minimum drag depends on the radiator design, and these probably haven't changed much since then; the optimum speeds were those that gave pressure drops across the radiator of 250-750 Pa. I don't know what that translates to as a speed for my intercooler and radiator, so I can do 2 things:
1. Estimate order-of-magnitude optimum speeds, where 1/2RhoV^2 = 250/750 Pa gives V = 12/35 m/s = 26/78 mph when the pressure behind the radiator is atmospheric.
2. Measure the pressure drop across the intercooler and radiator, say by strapping them to a roof rack and measuring the drop at various speeds using my Magnehelic gauges.

With the heroic assumption that pressure behind the radiator and intercooler is atmospheric, for a maximum continuous speed of 100 mph and a maximum velocity at the cooler face of 70 mph, I'm looking at a minimum reduction ratio for the front duct of 100/70 = 1.4; similarly, for a cruising speed of 70 mph and the middle point of the 26-78 mph range, 52 mph, I'm looking at a cruising reduction ratio of 70/52 = 1.4. The duct length and shape should be chosen to give this ratio.

Of course, drag may not be as important on our cars as on aircraft and the pressure behind the coolers needs to be atmospheric for this 1.4 ratio to hold, and this needs careful assessment and design of the exhaust route. It's too late in the day to think this through, so that will do for now.
__________________
Old age and experience will always beat youth and enthusiasm. Failing that, older people know more tricks and can afford better lawyers.
3 projects:
Designing systems for turbo-charged engine in Mazda RX8 and aerodynamic modding for mpg on road and performance on track
Mazda RX8 R3 for improved mpg (currently 17 mpUSg)
2001 Honda Accord 2.3 for improved mpg (currently 29 mpUSg in sedate driving)

Last edited by wildman10; 10-26-2015 at 10:31 AM.. Reason: Link added
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to wildman10 For This Useful Post:
BamZipPow (10-25-2015)
Old 10-26-2015, 10:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
wildman10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: London, UK
Posts: 15
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 6 Posts
Following on . . . . . . .

The same paper gives optimum ratios of cooling mass air flow to charge mass air flow (M1/M2) of 5.7, 4.4 and 3.8 for pressure drops of 250, 500 and 750 Pa respectively for an intercooler efficiency of 80%. For a maximum charge air mass air flow of 850 CFM (64 lb/min, 0.48 kg/sec) these figures give cooling air mass flows of 2.7, 2.1 and 1.8 kg/sec respectively. For the core area of my intercooler, 500mm x 260 mm, without ducting, these cooling air mass flows imply air speeds at the intercooler face of 38, 30 and 25 mph respectively. Similar calculations show speeds of:
• 80% efficiency, duct area ratio 1: 38, 30 and 25 mph.
• 80% efficiency, duct area ratio 1.4: 53, 42 and 35 mph.
• 80% efficiency, duct area ratio 2: 76, 60 and 50 mph.
• 90% efficiency, duct area ratio 1: 59, 46 and 38 mph.
• 90% efficiency, duct area ratio 1.4: 83, 64 and 53 mph.
• 90% efficiency, duct area ratio 2: 108, 92 and 76 mph.

Putting all this together:
• The figures in the paragraph above are worse case figures as they are steady state peak power using my intercooler and derived from practical experiments.
• Full power will be used only intermittently below 60 mph as my car will accelerate rapidly and/or traction may be limited, and even then the intercooler structure will act as a heat sink to be cooled after gear changes.
• Cruising and most road use will involve charge mass flow rates much lower than those for peak power, thus allowing higher duct ratios.
• Track use is the worst case scenario, involving as it does high power for longer. Looking at the figures above, track speeds will give 90% efficiency with a duct ratio of 2 ie an inlet area of ½ the intercooler area.
• The duct area ratio of 2 is higher than the duct ratio of 1.4 for the lowest drag losses but gives better cooling at expected car speeds.
__________________
Old age and experience will always beat youth and enthusiasm. Failing that, older people know more tricks and can afford better lawyers.
3 projects:
Designing systems for turbo-charged engine in Mazda RX8 and aerodynamic modding for mpg on road and performance on track
Mazda RX8 R3 for improved mpg (currently 17 mpUSg)
2001 Honda Accord 2.3 for improved mpg (currently 29 mpUSg in sedate driving)
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 03:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 1,782
Thanks: 319
Thanked 356 Times in 297 Posts
The diagrams above appear to be from Race Car Aerodynamics: Designing for Speed by Joseph Katz PhD. Lots of good information there. What is unique about the RX8 is the shape of the engine which allows more space between the grill and the engine block than most cars. From fluid mechanics we know fewer bents means less drag. From heat transfer we can calculate fin and tube areas and the expansion of heated air behind the radiator. The old Firebirds had vents in the fenders above and behind the front wheel also. My texts from the 1970's are Fluid Mechanics by Binder and Heat Transfer by Holman. I'd try Google Scholar for papers by Master's students dissertations.

Last edited by Grant-53; 10-26-2015 at 03:50 PM..
  Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2015, 06:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
aerohead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sanger,Texas,U.S.A.
Posts: 15,895
Thanks: 23,972
Thanked 7,223 Times in 4,650 Posts
heat exchangers

When all your essential engine bay components are in place,you can appraise the available real estate left under the bonnet to see how you can shoe-horn everything in,and duct it,;leaving critical access to areas you'll need on track day,and daily basis.(which all might intrude on an ideal body-in- white proposition?)

__________________
Photobucket album: http://s1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj622/aerohead2/
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread






Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com