Coroplast question

[Otto]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

"even heating on both sides would be critical"

-nope. Grab a heat gun and try it.

OK, thanks, I will.

But, wouldn't just the heated side give, leaving the unheated side to resist the shape change? (this for blister making)

[Chris D.]

Frank, you seem to be he BMOC,
lets see some of your fabrication skills with this stuff..

[Otto]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

To make a curve in Coroplast, because of the structure of it, we basically need to collapse/distort the "corrugations" and either stretch the convex side and shrink or collapse the concave side. So it's not really like forming single thickness sheet, which is practically all stretching. I have found most success by heating the concave side. I would love to try vac forming it but no longer have access to a vac former. For years I made prototype parts on a vac former and it was fun.

You da man, Frank.

May I pester you with questions about vacuum forming?

Vacuum forming is used in all sorts of consumer products, for blister packaging so you can see the product contained in the package. What kinds of clear, smooth plastic work well for this? Acetate sheet? Acrylic? Lexan?

What is easiest to work with?

Cheapest?

Have you seen the thermoforming and vacuum forming videos on You Tube? From those, it seems that home made vacuum forming machines could be cheap and easy. Your thoughts?

[Chris D.]

you can do it the old fashioned way and 35mm and have the pictures put on a disk at the same plafe for a few bucks more..

You have so many responces to tech stuff, your car must be amazing

[diesel_john]

i tried forming plexiglass once and i had more even heating using quartz work lights than a heat gun. it seemed to penetrate inside the plastic, rather than just surface. haven't tried coroplast they gathered up all the big political signs before i had a chance.