12-26-2012, 10:43 AM
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#31 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Another thought, a Kammback on the duelies would help. If you have towing mirrors I would also get the smaller factory ones.You should also get a vacuum gauge. Another thing to remember... Don't be afraid to ask for gas money if you are the one driving all your friends around. When people see the effort you put in to save fuel it may inspire them to offer gas money more then they would if you were stomping on the pedal.
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12-26-2012, 05:55 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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there are also kids driving 2011 merceds who probably cant fill there tires, not even to mention know when they need to be filled... so for the experience and knowledge i get its also better imho.
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12-26-2012, 07:53 PM
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#33 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Is it a 4 wheel drive truck? Does it have locking hubs? If it has locking hubs, leave them in "unlocked". If you leave them locked in, it's still going to use fuel to spin the differential. Also, removing the front driveshaft doesn't help with fuel economy as the differential is still spinning.
If you do not have locking hubs on your 4x4, remove the inner shaft on one of the sizes so that the differential is not spinning. **** IF YOU HAVE BEARINGS THAT ARE HELD TOGETHER BY THE AXLE NUT ON THE SHAFT, LEAVE IT IN PLACE ******
I second the 215 85R16 tires - less rolling reistance
Also, look for a 5w-40 oil instead of a 15w40. Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck or Rotella T6 5w-40 are highly rated. Shell is going to be coming out with a T6 0w-40 ... that will probably help with fuel economy too.
Grille block if you live in a cold climate.
Maybe Electric fan if you don't tow.
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12-26-2012, 09:23 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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not 4x4, running rotella 5w-40. what would be a capacity for towing with an electric fan/eletric water pump? for my daily driving i dont drive long enough for the block to even get warm. havent tried the block heater yet, would preheating the block help?
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12-26-2012, 10:41 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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Intermediate EcoDriver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisgerman1983
Another thought, a Kammback on the duelies would help. If you have towing mirrors I would also get the smaller factory ones.You should also get a vacuum gauge. Another thing to remember... Don't be afraid to ask for gas money if you are the one driving all your friends around. When people see the effort you put in to save fuel it may inspire them to offer gas money more then they would if you were stomping on the pedal.
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A vacuum gauge doesn't work on a diesel as there's no manifold vacuum.
__________________
Fuel economy is nice, but sometimes I just gotta put the spurs to my pony! 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguitarguy
Just 'cuz you can't do it, don't mean it can't be done...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elhigh
The presence of traffic is the single most complicating factor of hypermiling. I know what I'm going to do, it's contending with whatever the hell all these other people are going to do that makes things hard.
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12-27-2012, 07:23 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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i have the factory two mirrors and blind spot aid mirrors, those are staying due to the size of the truck and the fact that taking a fastback cap off and putting a camper in is not that difficult but to be swapping mirrors(aside from the fact that i want the fuel savings when im using the camper). any thoughts on airtabs?
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12-27-2012, 07:31 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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what about airfoil-ing the mirrors?
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12-27-2012, 09:20 PM
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#38 (permalink)
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use the search function and you will find that virtually all your questions have been discussed in depth.
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12-27-2012, 09:30 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang Dave
A vacuum gauge doesn't work on a diesel as there's no manifold vacuum.
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Good to know  |
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12-28-2012, 01:30 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinite-foamies
not 4x4, running rotella 5w-40. what would be a capacity for towing with an electric fan/eletric water pump? for my daily driving i dont drive long enough for the block to even get warm. havent tried the block heater yet, would preheating the block help?
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Too many factors for us to guess the capacity you need but remember that the cooling systems are typically very overbuilt - they plan for you to be towing the max load in the middle of death valley up a mountain. Basjoos, owner of "aerocivic", found that in his tiny car, the area needed to cool his car was something crazy like 2"x2". It's probably not quite a valid comparison, but if you need to burn ~9x as much fuel (10mpg vs 90mpg) while towing, I'd expect cooling area won't need to be too much more than 9x as large, which is still pretty small.
I have no idea if old diesels need to be warm in the same way modern gas engines do, but on my car I can see as much as a 50% improvement driving the same route and speed between a cold and a warm engine. In part, the computer is running a rich mix before warmup but I'm sure there are other factors that might be applicable to you.
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