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Old 06-08-2008, 11:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I think technically it would work, but I don't think it would come out as well as you might imagine. It just wouldn't seal right and the boot would end up being too short and just tear again very soon.

You do need to get that done soon however because you are running the risk of ruining your steering rack. Not sure how mechanical you are but its really not that hard of a job if you wanted to try your self.

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Old 06-11-2008, 06:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Made it out there today here are the estimates from AllData.

Parts-
Manual steering boot: (r) 20.42, (l) 20.42
Power steering boot: (r) 23.77, (l) 16.85

Labor-
outer tie boot (one side, without toe-in adjustment) - .6
outer tie boot (both sides, without toe-in adjustment) - .9
inner tie boot (one side, without allignment) - 1.1
inner tie boot (both sides, without allignment) - 1.4
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Old 06-13-2008, 03:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrad View Post
Made it out there today here are the estimates from AllData.

Parts-
Manual steering boot: (r) 20.42, (l) 20.42
Power steering boot: (r) 23.77, (l) 16.85

Labor-
outer tie boot (one side, without toe-in adjustment) - .6
outer tie boot (both sides, without toe-in adjustment) - .9
inner tie boot (one side, without allignment) - 1.1
inner tie boot (both sides, without allignment) - 1.4

Thanks ! ( Can you translate it please ? )
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Old 06-13-2008, 10:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Parts is the cost of parts in dollars, for the boots themselves.
Labor is the time in decimal hours to do the work.
.5 would be half an hour or 30 minutes
Multiply the time by the "hourly labor rate" of the shop you are using
to get the total cost. Hourly labor rate might be around $75 per hour.
Then after all this you have to go get the front end aligned.
(This analysis is all a guess on my part by the way)
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Old 06-13-2008, 12:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttoyoda View Post
Parts is the cost of parts in dollars, for the boots themselves.
Labor is the time in decimal hours to do the work.
.5 would be half an hour or 30 minutes
Multiply the time by the "hourly labor rate" of the shop you are using
to get the total cost. Hourly labor rate might be around $75 per hour.
Then after all this you have to go get the front end aligned.
(This analysis is all a guess on my part by the way)
Bingo.

Just call around for estimates in your area to see if those estimates are in line, don't forget to ask what they charge for flat rate.
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Old 06-13-2008, 02:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Bingo.
Thanks.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.
I probably should have clarified that the boot cost in dollars is what the garage bills the owner of the car. It is not the price the garage pays for the boots. There needs to be some markup by the garage to compensate for the fuss of handling (ordering, storing, not-losing, returning-wrong-or-defective, paying the bills on) the parts. So don't use the parts prices you find online to (female dog used for breeding pups^*) at the garage people. Just like you would not insult the chef at a restaurant before you eat, and for the same reasons.

*word filter. I wonder if I can enter the equivalent of "rooster" or "miserly"
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Old 06-26-2008, 01:17 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I'm currently putting around ... maybe 35 or so miles on the car in a months time ( just to keep the car from falling apart ), so no rush at all to get this done.
Also, I called a shop or two and one fellow stated that I might as well just drive the car as is.
He said that unless I hear 'clicking' sounds when I turn corners , not to worry about it.

Since he made it sound like it was no big deal, I think I might go ahead and clean out the dirty grease ( it's not that dirty really but I want as little grit as possible in there ).
I'll just replace the grease with new grease ( do I need a special type, or is grease ...grease ? )
I'll then try and seal the gaps in the CV boot.

Thanks for the help folks !
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:48 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Um, is this a steering rack we are talking about or an axle joint because there should not be grease packed in a steering rack boot. Any fluid leaking from there would mean the rack is leaking power steering fluid.
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:05 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Mullet View Post
Um, is this a steering rack we are talking about or an axle joint because there should not be grease packed in a steering rack boot. Any fluid leaking from there would mean the rack is leaking power steering fluid.
I concur there shouldn't be that much crap in there.. As you are only putting like 35 miles on it Just get some Zip Ties and suck the boot down to the shaft - Check that they don't interfier with your steering, You don't want to wait for it to start clicking.. that means that more is broken than already is
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Old 06-26-2008, 11:35 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The boot is there to keep dust/dirt/grime out of the inner tie rod end. Those joints are rather intolerant of gunk and will wear out quickly when dirty. Plus there IS grease there to keep the joint from rusting, as surface rust in the joint is the same as gunk and will wear it out. A worn tie rod end puts slop in the steering and will be difficult to align and won't hold an alignment.

Clamping the boot down will possibly prevent the rack from traveling to full lock in one or both directions without ripping the boot further, so it's mostly a waste of time.

Taking the inner tie rod end off the rack (or tie rod if it's easier) and replacing the boot isn't too difficult. Might be a good time to replace the tie rod end anyway. Measuring its setting with calipers will greatly assist you in putting it back together close enough to drive but a wheel alignment should still be done.

I know these aren't CV boots, but CV boots are the same way. The joints wear out very quickly when in contact with water/dirt. They're very hard to disassemble (they're an interference fit assembly you have to smack *just* right to take apart) and the grease is obnoxiously sticky yet you have to fully clean the contaminated grease to reboot a shaft. You're most likely better off replacing the whole shaft since it's fewer labor hours than rebooting and you have a new shaft/joints/boots.

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