Do Alternators Change in Engine Load? - Page 6 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

bryn · 07-23-2008, 02:51 AM

to properly get things back off track. try humanforsale.com to see what you are worth not very sientific but fun all the same

dann_04 · 07-23-2008, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Formula413

So you are saying that there should be a wire coming from the head unit that is only energized when I actually turn the head unit on? I didn't think there was such a thing. This is a factory head unit, maybe only aftermarket units have such a wire?

Yes, even the cheapy walmart ones have them along with every stock radio i've ever messed with. It is only hot when you press the power button on the radio. Like i said standard is blue and you should have an input on your amp that says remote 12v or something along those lines or at least it should be in your amp manual(check online if you don't have one).

As for a cap, it will make a big difference. Do you ever notice the first beat or two are really good and then it sounds alot quieter? Thats because your battery can't handle the rate of discarge, they discharge/recharge slowly. That cap does it instantaniously and reduces the load on the battery. I'ts kind of like the tank on a toilet if that makes sense. The tank fills up with water and holds it even when it's not needed until it is flushed, then it quickly flushes/fills the bowl, then the tank refills. Now imagin if you had no tank and just a water valve like a sink, it would take forever to flush and refill because the tap can only supply water so fast. So a cap does the same thing, holds the charge till it is needed then dumps the energy and recharges quickly from the alternator/battery.

Formula413 · 07-23-2008, 07:13 PM

I just tested my amp to see how much current it is drawing when powered on but not in use. Before I turned the stereo on the amp was drawing .8 amps. With the music playing at normal volume it varied from 2-4 amps. After shutting the music off it was about 1.3 amps. So about 10-15 watts power consumption when not playing music. That's enough to warrant investing some time to eliminate it. My first move will be to pull the head unit (I don't have my HU removal tool handy unfortunately) and see if there is a wire that is only live with the HU on. If not I will make a toggle switch for the wire that turns the amp on.

Formula413 · 08-23-2008, 02:30 PM

Update: I pulled the head unit out and checked every connection on the back of the unit but unfortunately there is no connection that is only hot when the unit is on. There is one that is always hot, one that's hot with the key in the accessory position, and that's it. Too bad, I would have loved to set it up this way. My only alternative to kill the amp when not in use is to put in a switch.

dann_04 · 08-23-2008, 03:52 PM

or you could get a new head unit with a remote on lead. That's wierd that your's doesn't have one.

Formula413 · 08-23-2008, 04:11 PM

The connector on the back has eight pins. Two of the wires are blue, one is always hot, one is access hot. Two of the pins are not used, one is ground, and the other wires are green, red and white and don't seem to have voltage at any time. As for replacing the head unit, on '97 and newer Escorts the head unit is integrated with the HVAC controls into one big panel. In order to use an aftermarket head unit you need to buy a replacement panel with all the HVAC controls in it and an opening for a standard 1 DIN aftermarket head unit.

orange4boy · 09-29-2008, 02:56 PM

You can have it all by running W/O alternator and one or two deep cycles. Charge at home and watch your volts.

It's one of the biggest FE improvements going.

When are those LED headlights coming?