01-10-2009, 01:57 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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dry ice
superchow,is your driving urban,or highway,or a mix?------If your going to "cheat",I think it would be easier on the highway than around town.Anytime you're in traffic,driveability issues will be an issue.---------- You might see 150-mpg at a constant 35-mph with a Pogue vapor carburetor(yeah they're real!),but they can't handle throttling.-------------------- The dry ice cooling you mention,is it for race cars compensating for heat-of-compression do to superchargers or turbochargers? If so,I suspect the fuel line is snaking through a "cool-can",which is a heat-exchanger type device filled with ice water,and along with inter-coolers,helps bring the charge temp down for better density (more charge more horsepower).---------------------- Modern electronic fuel injection attempts to balance MPG and driveability,with high sampling rates,and tremendous internal "look-up" menu scenarios,to anticipate conditions the car might experience.---------------- If you throw the ECM a curve-ball,by way of bogus input from sensors "seeing" artificial environments( CO2 ) it just may not have a fuzzy logic to make the best of all possible operating regimes.There's a lot of ROM in there.
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01-11-2009, 04:57 AM
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#32 (permalink)
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Master of 140 hamsters
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When commuting, it is all 25 to 40 mph city/suburban streets. But this mod was intended for longer contsant high speed (50-70 mph) drives. We drive every so often to Portland, which is a 200 miles round trip. Even though it is 70 mph for 75% of the way, I can get away with puttering at 55-60 most of the time. It would just be too much effort for the gain I imagine for commuting - especially since it would be my wife who'd have to do this. Riiiight.....
I believe that I have basically achieved 90% of what is possible from the car in its stock form. After it is paid off and the novelty has worn off, I may consider 'basjoos"ing it to move to past "impulse power" and into "warp 1.0". But that involves too much time and money (and intermarital strife) to be worth saving a few dollars at the gas pump. Maybe when gas reaches $10+ per gallon the relationship may be in favor of modding, but even then the KISS answer would be to drive less.
Then again - since when do men take the easy way to do things.
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01-11-2009, 01:16 PM
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#33 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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If your goal is to "cheat" in order to get a lifetime best mpg run, there's a much easier way. Just drive up to Mt. Rainier. Start at the top of the pass, and record mpg on the way down. Saves lots of complications like possible damage to your fuel system, plus you get to spend a day hiking or skiing.
Somewhere I've got a photo of the Insight's display, showing 150 mpg average for a ~70 mile run. The trick is to start at Carson Pass, about 8500 ft, and take the picture when you get to the valley, near sea level :-)
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01-11-2009, 05:30 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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ECO-Evolution
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superchow
I believe that I have basically achieved 90% of what is possible from the car in its stock form. After it is paid off and the novelty has worn off, I may consider 'basjoos"ing it to move to past "impulse power" and into "warp 1.0". But that involves too much time and money (and intermarital strife) to be worth saving a few dollars at the gas pump. Maybe when gas reaches $10+ per gallon the relationship may be in favor of modding, but even then the KISS answer would be to drive less.
Then again - since when do men take the easy way to do things.
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Come on 90% of what's possible. Don't give up.
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01-11-2009, 05:31 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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ECO-Evolution
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf
If your goal is to "cheat" in order to get a lifetime best mpg run, there's a much easier way. Just drive up to Mt. Rainier. Start at the top of the pass, and record mpg on the way down. Saves lots of complications like possible damage to your fuel system, plus you get to spend a day hiking or skiing.
Somewhere I've got a photo of the Insight's display, showing 150 mpg average for a ~70 mile run. The trick is to start at Carson Pass, about 8500 ft, and take the picture when you get to the valley, near sea level :-)
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If you want to cheat just put what ever you want in the gas log and just keep telling yourself that it's real.. It's not a lie if you believe it right.
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01-11-2009, 06:31 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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dry ice would take loads of money and emissions to make sounds like a non-starter to me
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01-11-2009, 06:53 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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Master of 140 hamsters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazarus
If you want to cheat just put what ever you want in the gas log and just keep telling yourself that it's real.. It's not a lie if you believe it right.
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Ah, but there is this thing called "accountability"!
I stand to my FE numbers, horrible as they may be. In the long run it'll give me a good idea of the fuel consumption of the car over many years. My time is too precious to waste it posting false mpg numbers. I also try to keep a record of the conditions during each tank, just to see what did make a difference.
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01-11-2009, 08:48 PM
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#38 (permalink)
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Moderate your Moderation.
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To using pure oxygen in the engine for a power booster - you could try this using the breathing apparatus that some older people use... it's battery-electric, and creates a decent amount of (non-medical grade) "pure" oxygen.
Just so you know - the process to create cutting/welding "pure" oxygen is much cheaper than medical grade "pure" oxygen... both are "pure"... but neither is 100% oxygen.
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01-11-2009, 10:06 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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Ecoformance Engineer
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EJ7 - '96 honda civic Hx Last 3: 58.02 mpg (US)
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if your gonna put anything in the intake throw in some hydrogen
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Originally Posted by MetroMPG
looking forward to seeing what kind of uber-sipper slinks out of the full race skunkworks.
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05-12-2010, 09:17 AM
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#40 (permalink)
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Exhaust Utility Designer
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Dry ice into intake?
To put dry ice into the intake of a Civic?
It could work to boost compression, however what about build up on the ice on the engine?
If there was a C02 turbo charging system as described, the dry ice could be made from the cars own exhaust, and sublimation emissions from the dry ice should be enough to cool the engines temperature, simulating the cold weather performance.
I would recommend keeping the ice sublimation emissions source (dry ice from exhaust) far away from engines intake to reduce damaging it. You might consider putting the dry ice behind the engines heat source to reduce drag. Also don't forget to change the oil first to cold weather oil.
Check out the Carbon Dioxide Recycler at:
myspace.com/allantugwellroberts
And Allan Tugwell Roberts on iTunes
Last edited by Carbon Dioxide Plumber; 05-12-2010 at 09:58 AM..
Reason: Added links
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