Eco mod my log splitter

[Piotrsko]

Number drills come in 1/2 jet sizes, ditto for letter drills and a wee bit of silicone carbide sanding can take a couple thou off a drill bit fairly fast. Truevalue and harborfright has some of both drill bits. Bit of silver solder if you overdrill. Get too carried away and it becomes responsive to local atmospheric conditions day to day.

[oil pan 4]

I sure I can find a happy medium where running the CAI in the summer and the warm air intake in the winter will make it very acceptable with ethanol free gas.
I found that switching to e10 definitely leaned it out some but it's still a bit richer than what I would like.

[oil pan 4]

I gave up on trying to tune the epa approved carb it came with. I got a cheap knockoff. The log splitter fuel tank is full of E10 gutter swill. Took the epa pos and S canned it. Main thing the epa approved carb lacked was an adjustable air bleed after the throttle. So I set the air bleed at the obligatory 2 and a half turns from being closed.
The replacement carb appears to have a bigger fixed air bleed orifice. Its the little black plug held in place by being located under the idle speed screw.
The epa approved air bleed plug is smaller allows a more rich air fuel emulsion to be drawn into the engine at part throttle, that's one reason it was running so rich. I believe it's like a holley power valve. The knockoff has a bigger fixed air emulsion orifice which allows a leaner air fuel mix to form for idle and part throttle run.
The knock off carb had an unlabeled main jet. It was definitely bigger than my #65. It appeared to be about a #72. Stsrted off by putting the #65 in there, it didn't want to stay running with the choke open.
The next size up from a #65 but smaller than the unlabeled stock jet was a #69. Put the #69 in and it stated up, didn't want to stay running without a little choke. Ran great once warmed up with the WAI cover on.
When splitting a knot it sputtered a bit.
So running E10 it's a bit lean. Switching to ethanol free gas should richen it up a bit and I can fine tune it with the adjustable air bleed screw.
As long as that sputter at full speed WOT is eliminated it will be just about perfect.
To shut down I turn the fuel off and idle it to cool. Its idling significantly longer. I know it a different carb and all, so it might hold a bit more fuel or have the fuel draw from a mm or 2 lower in the bowl, maybe. But it's definitely idling leaner, it doesn't sink like gas at idle.

[oil pan 4]

I ran the E10 out of it, still got some sputtering and went to a #70. Still needs a bit of choke till it starts to warm up. Now it boggs down a little but generally holds RPM through the toughest knots. I would say it has more power now, even with the factory WAI installed.
Doesn't stink like gas at idle or WOT + full load.