Eco mod my log splitter

[Piotrsko]

Number drills come in 1/2 jet sizes, ditto for letter drills and a wee bit of silicone carbide sanding can take a couple thou off a drill bit fairly fast. Truevalue and harborfright has some of both drill bits. Bit of silver solder if you overdrill. Get too carried away and it becomes responsive to local atmospheric conditions day to day.

[oil pan 4]

I sure I can find a happy medium where running the CAI in the summer and the warm air intake in the winter will make it very acceptable with ethanol free gas.
I found that switching to e10 definitely leaned it out some but it's still a bit richer than what I would like.

[oil pan 4]

I gave up on trying to tune the epa approved carb it came with. I got a cheap knockoff. The log splitter fuel tank is full of E10 gutter swill. Took the epa pos and S canned it. Main thing the epa approved carb lacked was an adjustable air bleed after the throttle. So I set the air bleed at the obligatory 2 and a half turns from being closed.
The replacement carb appears to have a bigger fixed air bleed orifice. Its the little black plug held in place by being located under the idle speed screw.
The epa approved air bleed plug is smaller allows a more rich air fuel emulsion to be drawn into the engine at part throttle, that's one reason it was running so rich. I believe it's like a holley power valve. The knockoff has a bigger fixed air emulsion orifice which allows a leaner air fuel mix to form for idle and part throttle run.
The knock off carb had an unlabeled main jet. It was definitely bigger than my #65. It appeared to be about a #72. Stsrted off by putting the #65 in there, it didn't want to stay running with the choke open.
The next size up from a #65 but smaller than the unlabeled stock jet was a #69. Put the #69 in and it stated up, didn't want to stay running without a little choke. Ran great once warmed up with the WAI cover on.
When splitting a knot it sputtered a bit.
So running E10 it's a bit lean. Switching to ethanol free gas should richen it up a bit and I can fine tune it with the adjustable air bleed screw.
As long as that sputter at full speed WOT is eliminated it will be just about perfect.
To shut down I turn the fuel off and idle it to cool. Its idling significantly longer. I know it a different carb and all, so it might hold a bit more fuel or have the fuel draw from a mm or 2 lower in the bowl, maybe. But it's definitely idling leaner, it doesn't sink like gas at idle.

[oil pan 4]

I ran the E10 out of it, still got some sputtering and went to a #70. Still needs a bit of choke till it starts to warm up. Now it boggs down a little but generally holds RPM through the toughest knots. I would say it has more power now, even with the factory WAI installed.
Doesn't stink like gas at idle or WOT + full load.

[oil pan 4]

One thing I have wondered is when should I change the hydraulic filter?
Now no need to guess. I found several psid indicator gauges that had been binned. To see if they might be useable for anything I shop ait tested them. The needle starts to move at 5psid and is in the red at about 20psid. Perfect for all my applications.
I'm sure when it first fires up with cold fluid it will be in the red, probably even with a new filter, as long as it comes down from the red when warm I'll leave it be.

[oil pan 4]

Filter pressure gauge and hydraulic temp gauge installed.
Ran it cold, at about 90f and at full speed it developed 8 to 10psid. So there's plenty of filter left.

[oil pan 4]

Next round of ecomodds.
I think I'm going to upgrade the hydraulic filter. It has a 14gpm pump @ 3,600rpm. The hydraulic filter head has 1 inch by 12tpi threads, built in bypasse. The filter on it is a 15gpm, 25 micron 99% efficiency with a 45 micron absolute, very standard 3.66 by 5 inches holds about 1 quart volume, uses paper filter media and has an unknown built-in bypass.
I'm going to see if I can get what I think is a military spec filter, a wix A31A06GA it's about double the size 3.75 by 9 has about a 2.5qt volume. Does "up to 22gpm” has a crazy temperature range of -13 to +246F, filters 6 micron at 99% and 20 micron absolute, uses fiberglass media. I don't even know if I can get it.
If not, then a very common wix hydraulic filter 57123 will work, it's a big hydraulic filter with 8 micron 99% and 25 micron absolute. 3.66 inches by almost 9 inches long.
Neither one has a bypass.

For the engine I think I will throw on a timing advance key. Might do a thin head gasket too and bump that compression a bit. Add an hour meter tachometer and turn up the RPMs to 3,800 to 4,000.

[Piotrsko]

Without a bypass the filter can or the hose becomes the unloading point. Very messy and it only happens when you're in an inconvenient place. Don't take long to empty a 5gallon pail of paint.

[oil pan 4]

Well I can forget about the a31a06ga. Wix doesn't have one in stock, they're made to order and it will take up to 4 months to get it and I'll have to pay shipping. So it will be over $100 before tax.
I'll just get a wix 57123, it will be like $40 and they will have it in 2 days.

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Without a bypass the filter can or the hose becomes the unloading point. Very messy and it only happens when you're in an inconvenient place. Don't take long to empty a 5gallon pail of paint.

The filter head has a built in bypass. For a hydraulic filter the built in filter head bypass is usually around 20psi. Built in hydraulic filter bypasses are anywhere from 10 to 30psi or none. If an engine oil filter gets used the bypass could be as little as 7 or 8psi.

[oil pan 4]

I installed the new hydraulic filter, a wix 57123. It just about cut return back pressure in half.

I also installed and tested the temperature gauge. It hit almost 150F and I wasn't even running it that hard. Not great but not terrible. For mineral oil hydraulic fluid 120F is optional. So I'll need a cooler.
This is why we use instruments and test stuff.