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Old 12-05-2011, 03:20 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Hehe ! That active grille is looking pretty good augustinionut !

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Old 12-07-2011, 09:12 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Grill block looks excellent, but I thought that having it open slowly so you could only keep it partially open was a good idea. Why did you change it?

Almost all my driving is done 1-5 miles at a time.
Best short trip: 2.4 l/100 km, 3.9 km
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Old 12-08-2011, 11:51 AM   #33 (permalink)
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This is more efficient. The old dc motor was too weak.

EDIT: automated version with a 75 degree termostat

Last edited by augustinionut; 12-13-2011 at 04:11 PM..
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Old 12-21-2013, 06:45 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Trust me, i'm an engineer.
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Old 12-25-2021, 12:13 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Svietlana II - '13 Peugeot 308SW e-HDI 6sp
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Headlight leveling motor?

Resurrecting this thread with a new idea for powering the openable grille block.

For the openable grille block in my previous car, I used 2 central lock motors. Operation was just a momentary push of a button, and indeed the motor took a fraction of a second to open/close open or close the grille.

In the new car, the engine and its temperature management seems even better, hardly ever see temps above 80-82 deg C, so I use only seasonal grille blocks, but would like to have the luxury of the openable blocks I had in Svietlana I.

Might use the same central lock motors, but also got thinking about a different drive - headlight leveling motor.

I can see a few benefits of using these over central lock motors:
  • They seem to have similar travel ~1 cm
  • They have worm gears that give slower movement (for a grille block, open/close time of 2-10 sec is just as good as <1 sec).
  • The worm gears give higher torque (the central lock motor was not strong enough when ice would freeze on the grille block elements).
  • Headlight leveling motors can stop in intermediate positions, allowing variable opening of the grille.

The challenge (for me, at least) is controlling. Central lock motors have only 2 wires - connect to ground and +12V for a moment and it closes, reverse polarity and it opens.
Headlight leveling motors have at least 3 wires, and need a rheostat to control. The problem is, I cannot find anywhere on the net wiring diagrams or other info that would allow me to understand how to wire and control. The best option is just using the leveling dial found in the car's cockpit.

Any ideas? Any help?

e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be

What matters is where you're going, not how fast.

"... we humans tend to screw up everything that's good enough as it is...or everything that we're attracted to, we love to go and defile it." - Chris Cornell

[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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