05-01-2014, 10:34 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Im not worried as a hybrid owner and car that frequently stops and starts the engine. Not aware of a hybrid that has suffered engine failure due to constant starting and stopping either.
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05-01-2014, 11:22 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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I was about 1.5 quarts low on oil in my TSX and starved the pump on several occasions while cornering hard. The oil indicator came on for about 5 seconds on each occasion. While cornering the engine was at idle. I wonder how bad it is to starve the engine in that situation? It seems it would be no worse than starting the engine since it takes a few seconds to build up oil pressure.
I've since changed my oil and topped up.
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05-02-2014, 10:36 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb
Im not worried as a hybrid owner and car that frequently stops and starts the engine. Not aware of a hybrid that has suffered engine failure due to constant starting and stopping either.
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Oh yea, that's true, most hybrids and start-stop equipped cars don't have an electric oil pump.
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05-02-2014, 01:00 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I probably start my car 20 times a trip these days, and I haven't seen any ill effects yet. Seems like a lot of money and effort for very little return, i.m.o. you'll sell the car long before you'll reap any benefits from adding an external pump
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05-02-2014, 09:50 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Back in the day of v8s it was common for the mains and rods to wear from excessive idling that it didnt get enough lube at idle. Infact many older cars you may see a low oil psi light til you up the idle and pump more oil.
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05-03-2014, 08:30 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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aero guerrilla
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I once wondered about whether electric oil pumps are worth using.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simonas
I also have heard of electric pumps that keep oil flowing to a turbo even after the engine is turned off.
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__________________
e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be
What matters is where you're going, not how fast.
"... we humans tend to screw up everything that's good enough as it is...or everything that we're attracted to, we love to go and defile it." - Chris Cornell
[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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05-03-2014, 09:51 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I have taken apart engines after they have sat from any where from a few days to a few years.
There was still plenty of oil where you need it to be.
Where I work due to poor plaining and bad policy we had these ford diesels with 6.4L engines. They were started around 100 times per day, 5 to 7 days a week. Had almost no problems from it.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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05-03-2014, 10:52 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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^^^^What he said^^^^
Oil doesn't run out of components. It has very adhesive properties, especially when cold.
Take a bolt and dip it in water, then hang it to dry and it will.
Take a bolt and dip it in oil, then hang it to dry and it won't. A film of oil will remain.
I have ripped apart engines for nearly every type of failure and cold starts isn't one of them. Either is wear in general, not these days.
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05-03-2014, 11:09 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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It was just an idea... Thanks for critiquing it.
Out of curiosity, what is it that causes acidic blowby?
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05-03-2014, 11:42 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simonas
It was just an idea... Thanks for critiquing it.
Out of curiosity, what is it that causes acidic blowby?
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The engine not being warm. You get more blow by when the engine is cold because the aluminum piston and its rings have not expanded to their normal operating dimensions.
When cold you also have incomplete combustion, gasoline is a solvent makes it to the piston and cylinder walls, washing away the oil.
There are a few ways to fix this.
Run file fit piston rings so you have a tiny ring gap compared to factory setup.
Use a diesel engine, it's fuel is not mixed with air in the cylinder before buring and it's fuel is more oil like than solvent like.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...mer-23893.html use that to warm up fast.
The key to reducing wear is getting the oil up to operating temperature, where the anti wear addtives can activate and coat parts moving against each other and generating a lot of heat with zinc.
Also dont run oil that is too thin. There is only a 3% fuel economy difference between 15w-40 weight and 5w-20 oil and a 1% fuel economy difference between 10w-30 and 5w-20.
__________________
1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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The Following User Says Thank You to oil pan 4 For This Useful Post:
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