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Old 01-06-2011, 11:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Front end alignment so easy...that even a human can do it....

* note...this info is specific to the '80s Tercel...but is applicable to all vehicles where you can run a string along the sidewalls of your tires with clearance (you could add (4) spacer blocks to ANY vehicle)...you would need exact specs on front/back tread in order to adjust for that and 4 identical tires of course. The 4WD Tercel has a toe spec of ZERO and the tie-rod is to the front. Your vehicle will have different specs. Same method is used...but it is adjusted.

* we aliens share this advanced technology with humans with great reluctance and some misgivings...please do not find some way to make war with this technology.


Stuff you need:


* maybe 30-40 feet of nylon string...nylon because it is stretchable...and you can snug it up to maintain tension.

* (2) 15 mm thick (a little less than 5/8") spacers made of wood or ????

* 14 mm and 13 mm combination wrenches

* some penetrating oil


And so we begin:


Hit the adjusters on both sides with penetrating oil and let it soak in....overnight if possible.


Take the string and tie it around the tires front and back at axle level so you have a complete loop...might need a little help with this. It needs to be snug. It doesn't matter where it goes on the ends...but along the sides you can't have it hitting any part of the body...just the edge of the tires...on the sidewalls.

Then make sure it is at axle level at all tires.


Next...take the (2) spacers and place them under the string on the back tires at the rear sidewall...this adjusts the track equally front to back. The tension of the string should hold them.


Now...on one side or the other turn the wheels so that the string is JUST TOUCHING both the front and back sidewall. You should be doing all this on GRAVEL...so the wheels turn easily....or dust some sand on a paved surface.


Then...go to the other side and look...IF you have correct alignment...the string will JUST TOUCH the BOTH the front and rear sidewalls of this tire.


In the REAL WORLD you will probably have one of two situations here....you will have SPACE between the string and the rear sidewall of this second tire...meaning you have too much TOE-OUT.

In the other case you will be able to pull the string away from the front sidewall of this second tire and still have the string on the sidewall at the rear of the tire...meaning you have this much TOE-IN.



How to adjust your TOE (please...keep your socks on)...


In theory at least...your wheels should be pointing very close to straight ahead at this point. So sit in the driver's seat and look at the wheel...IS IT STRAIGHT?

If not...you will want to do your adjusting on the side that will result in the wheel being closer to straight rather than worse off.

Which adjuster you move depends on whether you have too much or too little toe...AND which way the steering wheel is off. Four factors to consider.

Example: IF your steering wheel is to the left AND you have too much toe-out...you would want to bring the right side wheel IN some to both correct the toe AND the steering wheel position....you do this by loosening and turning the inner tie rod on the right side (pass side) so that the length of it is LESSENED. You will need to look at the threads using a light to see which direction to turn the inner tie rod using the 13 mm open end wrench on the flats.

There are 3 other possibilities. Think about it. I sit in the driver's seat and use my hands held out to represent the tires and how they point...in order to figure out which adjuster to move.

Also...some vehicles have the tie rod in front...some in back of the wheels....this makes a difference for sure.

You use the 14 mm box end to loosen the adjusting clamp...and the 13 mm open end to do the adjusting by turning the inner tie rod.. If the adjusters are rusted...you might have issues getting them loose...which is why it is a good idea to soak them overnight...BEFORE you start.

note: Since you are measuring at the sidewall and not the tread...measured toe might be off a little...except ZERO is ZERO....so you end up where you want.

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Last edited by suspectnumber961; 03-21-2011 at 09:08 PM..
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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A tape measure works for me, but whatever floats your boat!
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Old 01-07-2011, 05:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Our method involves advanced string theory...the string is there and then it isn't...it also moves around a lot if the wind blows.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ahhh, advanced string theory- that's why this simple caveman doesn't get it.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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One of these days I will check my fleet's alignment with either string or tape measure.

(If I say that enough, it must come true eventually, right?)
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Kinda like the day I'll take 2 pistons outta my Tempo....

it hardly matters anymore, I've cut down on my driving so much.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So have I - I put 2 tanks of fuel through the Firefly in 2010. But I still find all this stuff inherently interesting.

/threadjack
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I tried this method, and I found out that I have massive toe in! I dialed in the tie rod adjusters as far as they'll go, but it's not enough. I guess I'll have to do some cutting and welding, and I'll also need to straighten my rear axle, since it's bowed in.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:04 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Even Fancier Metro - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage top spec
90 day: 70.75 mpg (US)

Appliance car Mirage - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage ES (base)
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Oh, cut it out. :P

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Honda mods: Ecomodding my $800 Honda Fit 5-speed beater
Mitsu mods: 70 MPG in my ecomodded, dirt cheap, 3-cylinder Mirage.
Ecodriving test: Manual vs. automatic transmission MPG showdown



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