Generator trailer

[oil pan 4]

Well I decided my 17.5kw generator is too big to move around by its self.
The main structure is all junk I had laying around. The springs axle, tires, aluminum tool box (not shown yet) and trailer tongue are off my ultimate 2,500lb capacity car trailer upgrade build. The big C channel cross member is a scrap piece of a metal building and the angle is salvage off another trailer.
The frame is a piece of about 1/4 of a trailer project I abandoned in 2013 because it wasn't going to be big enough and I just didn't think it was going to be strong enough.
All the little left over pieces get saved if I think they can be reused later on or go to the scrap yard to get recycled.
The 4 inch stainless steel pipe is just there to help me find the balance point to help decide where to center the axle.

This size generator isn't necessarily for an electric vehicle since it could easily power two level II chargers. But the idea is the same. I made it wider for stability since the fuel tank holds 13 gallons of gas and is on top, making it potentially more top heavy than what I would like to see. The deck of the trailer will be a little longer than what is needed for additional fuel cans, maybe a fuel tank later on.
For an electric vehicle tow behind generator a smaller one could be used, on a shorter narrower trailer that is lower to the ground.
If money is no object for 2x to 4x the money you could get a diesel powered generator and run bio diesel.
I will likely cover the whole thing with a 120 to 250 watt solar panel on a hinge, add a larger group 31M AGM battery for starting and to power a pure sine wave inverter later on.
Since I will be moving in the next few months I didn't want to move the generator and left over trailer pieces I had laying about. I figured I should combine them into one functional unit sooner rather than later.

[Stubby79]

I'm looking forward to seeing completed pics, when you get there.

[oil pan 4]

Something to look out for, grade 3 bolts.
The lag bolts that hold the generator to its axle were grade 3, aka grade A, A307 and free spinning nuts. Don't use the grade 3 for anything other than holding down a trailer deck.
I tried to find grade 5, but no one had them in 5/16 so I just went with stainless lag bolts and I have some stainless steel lock nuts. Due to the high alloy content stainless bolts can be assumed to be at least grade 5.
I have found grade 3 bolts in load bearing applications will randomly fail.
With a 400lb generator with 13 gallons of gas going 70mph down the road you don't want it coming off the trailer.

[Stubby79]

The only place i can find low-grade bolts is when they come with something made in China. All the places that sell hardware/bolts by the piece here sell grade 8 bolts. (I suppose the fastener warehouses probably stock cheaper ones, but I don't need to buy a 50lb box at a time)

[oil pan 4]

There are a lot of grade 3 lag bolts out there.
Hex head bolts are usually at least grade 5.

[Stubby79]

I'll have a look next time I'm in the hardware section....I rarely buy lag bolts. There's probably not so much need for them to be high grade, since they won't be torqued down nearly as much.

[oil pan 4]

I checked another place they had ungraded or grade 2, even worse.

I got the axles, springs, spring hangers and wheels on. The trailer is a little nose light. Which is perfect since I still have a tool box to put on there with pure sine wave power inverter, a big battery after the current one croaks and some decking for extra fuel cans if not a fuel tank.

[oil pan 4]

Got the generator on the trailer and took it for a ride.
Next step put on the tool box.

[dwtaylorpdx]

If you can, convert to boat tires, with the 14" wheels and tires, will reduce drag(Narrow and tall) and you won't be waiting for the big Ka-blewey when the bearings in those itty bitty hubs blow out..

The small tires end up turning fast which makes their bearings turn extremely fast..

Cheers

[oil pan 4]

Those hubs have made multiple cross country trips.

The reason these hubs go out carrying so little weight is due to neglect. I would clean and repack the bearings for long distance trips, the one time I didn't turns out water had gotten into the hub and could have caused them to fail, but that's nothing to do with the bearings and tire size, I was in a hurry and cut corners. Trailer bearings need to be redone every 2 years, last time when they could have failed on me it had been about 3 years.

In a wet place like portland, you should probably clean and pack them yearly.