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Old 04-12-2012, 10:03 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Considering the cooling system can make up nearly 1/3rd the drag of a vehicle I'd say the aero benefits are quite substancial.

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Old 04-12-2012, 10:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I haven't been able to tell much of a difference in warm up times on my truck. Seems like it should, but it hasn't seemed to make much difference. Using by block heater seems to help a lot, as does warmer ambient temps. I've also noticed in the mornings that how low the overnight low was makes a big difference too.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:37 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Considering the cooling system can make up nearly 1/3rd the drag of a vehicle I'd say the aero benefits are quite substancial.
That is what I was thinking.
Increase aero with WMI, seems like an unlikely combo but I think it could work.
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Old 04-12-2012, 11:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have blocked up the "escape" vents in the chin area, so that as much of the air that comes through the small grill opening to go through the radiator instead of bypassing it. In other words, the factory grill opening is often way too big (done for styling) and then they dump a lot of air out through the chin area, because it is not needed to cool the radiator.

I have just a 15" x 4" opening below the bumper. That is no more than 1/6th of the area of the stock opening. Since I have blocked up the escape vents, and I have never overheated. The fan comes on at 204F and on really hot days, in dense traffic or climbing a very steep grade, the fan does come on, but it did that before I had any grill block.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
Considering the cooling system can make up nearly 1/3rd the drag of a vehicle I'd say the aero benefits are quite substancial.
That's what we're told but I've never been able to detect it via gaslogs.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I keep one of my ScanGauge displays set to show engine coolant temp. it reads out in 2ºF increments.

From that I know if the engine is getting more or less cooling than it needs. I've seen this engine stabilizes at 182ºF if all is well. If it's consistently above or below that temp I know the amount of air going through is too little or too much.

That temp is just my engine; I'm not saying that's the magic temperature for all. I'm saying you really can see how your grill block and cooling system are doing if you observe the temperatures.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I keep one of my ScanGauge displays set to show engine coolant temp. it reads out in 2ºF increments.

From that I know if the engine is getting more or less cooling than it needs. I've seen this engine stabilizes at 182ºF if all is well. If it's consistently above or below that temp I know the amount of air going through is too little or too much.

That temp is just my engine; I'm not saying that's the magic temperature for all. I'm saying you really can see how your grill block and cooling system are doing if you observe the temperatures.
My understanding is that as long as your thermostat is working correctly, it should never stabalize UNDER temp.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_Dave View Post
My understanding is that as long as your thermostat is working correctly, it should never stabilize UNDER temp.
It will if the outside air is cold enough and there's enough of it going through the radiator. Doesn't take that much really. Observed in southern New England climate with variable grill block and the ScanGauge engine coolant display.

"under temp" depends on your definition, and the amount of under that you're willing to accept.

We're working to a higher standard - in many respects - than what the EPA and Honda engineers were doing.
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Old 02-14-2018, 02:53 PM   #19 (permalink)
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In theory isn’t an open thermostat more efficient?

The coolant pump sees less resistance therefore has less drag?

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