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Old 09-07-2018, 12:41 PM   #31 (permalink)
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My current thought that would probably be the most robust is to use a linear voltage regulator like a 7805. These are extremely common chips. The one I linked to can handle up to 35V. I would need to go to one that puts out 5V though due to how they work. That means I would also need to get a 5V to 15V dc-dc converter instead of my 12V to 15V converter. However, this would pretty much ensure nothing would fry. That being said, there is one of these built into an arduino which is the programmable micro controller that I'll be using for phase two anyways. So, I wouldn't even need one if I got the new dc-dc converter.

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Old 09-08-2018, 06:19 AM   #32 (permalink)
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You can convert a 5v linear regulator to an 11v linear regulator by voltage dividing it's reference between it's output and ground.
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:47 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Regs are cheap, just get the one that fits the purpose.
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Old 09-08-2018, 08:05 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Do you have any idea on how much current is drawn?

The arduino ones can handle up to 800mA if i remember correctly. (Which also has to feed the atmel microprocessor).
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Old 09-08-2018, 11:45 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I did test the sense line current draw. It was 1mA.
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Old 09-09-2018, 04:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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For the phase 3 "E-brake"(electron brake) a higher voltage capacitor with enough capacity to hold 5-10HP of eletrons thrown at it when on the brakes .@13.7v 120A= 1644W/2.2HP ( the inefficiencies of the charging system ~50% ) ~5HP@13.7VDC with a 24v cap @120A you can increase the strength of your e-brake closer to that 10HP strength .

I live in "Grade Territory" (long steep mountain climbs) my prior thoughts on this E-brake involved a power dissipation system,dump load for when I run out of storage. I was thinking maybe a Jacob's Ladder big enough to dissipate 25-50HP. Call it a Jake Brake.
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Old 09-09-2018, 04:14 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Phase 6, do the same with the AC. Blower on full, ac compressor activated.

I am now commuting (on a coffee break) and I do this manually on down hills where I have to decelerate. It works quite well. The blower motor is a fairly good load if you want to dump some electrons.
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Old 09-09-2018, 04:16 PM   #38 (permalink)
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If anyone knows how to increase the size of the AC refrigerant please let me know.
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:27 PM   #39 (permalink)
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A bit earlier this weekend I finished up the wiring for the charger. The 110V lines got blade connectors while the 12V lines got bullet connectors. I then stuffed the charger behind the center console.

I have a new 5 to 15V dc-dc converter on order for phase 2 of the project.



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Old 09-10-2018, 02:07 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Whilst waiting for the new dc-dc converter to arrive. I should probably think up how I am going to do the regenerative braking thing.

Ideally, we really only want the alternator turned on during a certain set of conditions:

1) The alternator is spinning.
and
2) We are slowing down.

I haven't really found out a great way to do this yet. Initially I was thinking that I would just take a signal from the brake lights. When the brake light would go on, the alternator would turn on. Unfortunately, this really doesn't actually ensure either of the two conditions are met. It simply means the brake is on. I could be sitting at a stop light, or starting the car on a hill. In both of those cases I don't really want the alternator to turn on. However, it does make enabling the alternator a simple affair. You get brake light signal, you turn on. Pretty easy. The complicated route would include watching the speed sensor to ensure you're actually slowing down, and probably watching the tach signal to make sure the engine is running. I really don't feel like doing all of that though haha.

So, for now, I think I am just going to hook it up to the brake light and see how that works. I can always tweak it in the future. But, if it works, there is no reason to make it more complicated.

As always, if you have suggestions I'm all ears!

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