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Old 09-07-2014, 09:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You may need to get one of those step drill bits from harbor freight and make the hole bigger.

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Slot the holes.


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Old 09-08-2014, 01:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Good morning, everyone. Thank you very much for your feedback.

It sounds like my twenty-hour work day was a complete waste. I really needed a nap on Sunday, but was having my usual difficulty sleeping, and had I been able to take a nap, it only would have made it even more difficult to sleep last night, which did not go well, either.

I expected my friend to let me know when she was working on it again yesterday, but she did not, so I started messaging her, and she did not respond very thoroughly.

We had an argument at 2-3am about how tight to fasten the oil pan. I told her that I read countless warnings to not over-tighten it and proper torque spec was around nine foot-pounds. Unfortunately, I could not find my torque wrench! Many people said they did not use one, they just hand-tightened, but she insisted that a 10mm bolt could take a great deal of force. I tried explaining that that many people warned about warping the pan and that its metal was thin and would bend easily.

Well, please allow me to fill in details to my usual standards. Yay!

I found her a used pan for $45 in "A" condition and the entire mating surface was covered with silicone. With my Civic, I only used two dabs where instructions indicate, but some people use as much as possible, and she had originally said that gasketmaker was better than an actual gasket. We drove back and after scraping silicone for forty-five minutes, she found a dent.

The oil pan is shaped to go around some round part of the engine. Will someone please tell me what that is called? I will come back and revise this.

I read that you put Honda Bond there because it is prone to leaking and I noticed that gaskets had a lip that went around the edge of the pan, presumably creating a better seal.

The dent was on that part. We looked at it and thought that we could hammer it back. I have body work tools and I thought one of my dollies would be a close fit, but we did not want to chance it on a vulnerable spot.

The scrapyard that sold us the part had already closed for the weekend. O'Reilly's advertised the pan for $80, but did not have any in the entire state of Arizona. Same with Autozone.

Come on! This is the Honda Accord! That is a popular car!

Napa had one delivered from another store for $104. My friend insisted that neither of us could afford it, but she needed a car to drive to work today, and I needed to take care of my own life.

Napa thanked me for my service and discounted the pan to $93. Once we had the pan, things went pretty straightforwardly, but I believe the owner's manual only says where to jack up the car to change a tire. I did not find anything in her Chilton. It took me a very long time to find that you put the jack on a tow hook and put the stand at the usual spot behind the wheel. That would have been a problem, my jack would not have gotten it very high like that. Putting the stands under the tow hooks did not seem very stable at all. Placing them where she told me to seemed stable, but I think that Cobb was correct, and that moved everything out of alignment.

The guy at O'Reilly, presented me with the arguments of whether or not to purchase a gasket or just make my own. He said that he always used a gasket and two layers of seal.

I like to think that Honda knows their own cars.

I considered purchasing a gasket and not telling her. I did most of the work anyway, so I expected to be able to use it without her knowing, but she did not want to use a gasket, so I did not purchase one. However, at 2am, she was trying to decide if she needed a gasket after all, but of course, we could not purchase one at that hour!

It was extremely frustrating to piece together this story. She waited 12-24 hours for the gasket maker to cure, poured in her oil, and it poured right out. She got under her car and she could tighten the bolts by hand.

I had asked her to find the tightening pattern in her repair manual, but that was a waste of time, so I put them in using a criss-cross pattern, hand-tight, and then made two full loops, tightening everything with my socket wrench, tighter than I liked, and tighter than I remember doing with my Civic.

So, how could she tighten them by hand?

She redid everything, this time purchasing a gasket, and still had leaks, so she is having someone else help her tonight. Meanwhile, I need to work on my own car, and she still has all of my tools!

Nice guys finish last.

Last edited by Xist; 09-08-2014 at 02:51 PM..
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, I'm emotionally drained after reading that. My first instinct is to say you're better off being on the outside of the drama now, but I can see where mistakes could be made and arguments erupt from when your tired. That seemed like a really long time to replace an oil pan, but I've been there many times where it takes 10x longer and is 4x more expensive than you thought it would be. Wrenching can be very frusterating. Hopefully, you'll be able to deflate the incedent with some plucky banter later
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, I'm emotionally drained after reading that.
I apologize. I have that effect on people. I hope that you get feeling better.

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Hopefully, you'll be able to deflate the incedent with some plucky banter later
We are doomed!
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:39 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This thread is pointless without pictures.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5 View Post
This thread is pointless without pictures.
Redpoint, there are all kinds of pictures in this thread!

Considering that she told me that I did everything wrong, I doubt that she will do me any favors, but have another picture!



This is from one of the few DIYs that I saw for replacing the Accord oil pan, which just pointed out
Quote:
how the torque converter cover is interlocked with the shift cable cover
http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...81/#post261013

Except, she apparently had the wrong shift cable cover, it did not fit anything else, and looked like it was only supposed to cover the very edge of the cable, not half of it.

We wasted some time trying to make it work and then gave up.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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A mechanic suggested that I over-tightened the bolts and stripped them, but I bet that she would have told me about that, even though it would contradict everything she had said previously.
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Old 09-12-2014, 02:48 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I may try to fix her oil pan again tomorrow. She says that she is fed up with the car and does not want to do anything else with it.

I still do not know what the problem was when I replaced her oil pan. She said twice that I did not tighten the bolts enough, but a mechanic suggested that I over-tightened and stripped them. She said that I may have, completely contradicting herself.

She said that when she redid it on Monday, she could not remove all of the gasketmaker, even after two hours of sanding. She supposedly did a third time and said she paid two mechanics, who were so fed up they threw my tools in her trunk.

She told me to make her a list of what I am missing, it should be in her trunk somewhere.

I am going to see if I can get her original pan welded and now that I found my torque wrench, I will use that.

She thought she apologized for being rude to me, it just did not seem apologetic to me.
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The MSRP for an OEM oil pan is $92.65 I paid that much at NAPA after my military discount!

Okay everybody! Always check the dealer before you use anyone else!
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Old 09-13-2014, 08:48 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Sometimes the dealer is cheaper. And a stopped clock is right twice a day.

Using that clock will have a higher success rate than checking the dealer every time.

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