High MPG work truck

[Slow_s10]

An air tank you say...



Lol, I have no doubt in my mind that you are not going to be doing this. But just think of the aero improvement!

But in all seriousness you are doing a fantastic job with this Suburban. It boggles my mind that you are getting such awesome mileage with it. I mean, it absolutely smokes the mileage that I am getting in my Bravada (which is just a glorified S10 Blazer). If I could regularly pull down tanks over 20mpg in it I would probably keep it but with it's average being closer to 18 even when hypermiling I'm just over it.

Oh and what is the air tank actually going to be for?

[oil pan 4]

I am still down 2 maybe 3MPG because of the thin air.

I would slam it nearly that low but I would have to be able to get it back up to normal hight with say the flip of a switch.

The air compressor and tank is going to be for running tools, filling tires, actuating the turbo VGT and maybe air helper bags.

I maybe considering fiber glass springs off an astro van in the junk yard, the 3/4 ton springs I have weigh like 80lb each I cant see the half ton springs on there now weiging less than 50lb. I'm thinking about telling the junk yard guys to pull one off for me, but need to take some measurements first. I just happened to see them like the day before yesterday.

[oil pan 4]

I had been thinking that pulling my little trailer empty cost 2 to 3 MPG, now I'm thinking its more like 3 to 4 MPG.

[slowmover]

What's the percentage change from solo? That tends to be a more informative number.

[oil pan 4]

The only empty unloaded highway trip I have been on gave me 24mpg.
The highest I have been able to hit empty with the trailer is 20 and 21 MPG.

So about a 20% difference from empty with a trailer to empty with out a trailer.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

The only empty unloaded highway trip I have been on gave me 24mpg.
The highest I have been able to hit empty with the trailer is 20 and 21 MPG.

So about a 20% difference from empty with a trailer to empty with out a trailer.

30-40% is a reasonable expectation for a travel trailer, for example. An average reported wide & far, plus going back several decades.

[oil pan 4]

This is only a small 4'x8' utility trailer with wood sides.
Empty weight with out wood sides is 200 to 250lb, with wood maybe 350.
I have put thousands of miles on this little trailer. About 6,800 miles in 2012 alone.

[Varn]

Not sure where the vehicle is located but it wouldn't make down about 30% of the roads around here.

I owned a syclone for close to 20 years. It got about 16 on average. I once got 20mpg. Your car is nearly a clone as far as the drivetrain. Without the turbo.

QUOTE=Slow_s10;344041]An air tank you say...



Lol, I have no doubt in my mind that you are not going to be doing this. But just think of the aero improvement!

But in all seriousness you are doing a fantastic job with this Suburban. It boggles my mind that you are getting such awesome mileage with it. I mean, it absolutely smokes the mileage that I am getting in my Bravada (which is just a glorified S10 Blazer). If I could regularly pull down tanks over 20mpg in it I would probably keep it but with it's average being closer to 18 even when hypermiling I'm just over it.

Oh and what is the air tank actually going to be for?[/QUOTE]

[ECONORAM]

The MQ didn't work for the NV3500 comment, but I'd avoid using that one. I've done some research, as I want a stick shift. It's only rated for 300 ftlbs, which means my mildly tuned 4.7 is too much for it. I agree, the NV4500 would be a good choice if you decided to go manual. The NV4500 Transmission - Novak Conversions
High Impact - NV4500 5spd

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

I ceramic coated the out side and started ceramic coating the inside of the turbine housing. The "Jethot" ceramic coating is impressing me so far.
I am going with a real heavy coating out side, 3 to 5 coats and 1 or 2 on the inside.
So far it looks like it will hold the heat in pretty good and look like polished aluminum when I buff it.
Next will be to sand blast the Banks turbo manifold and coat it inside and out.

Might have to pull my OEM manifolds off and do this.... Do you need to idle the engine a while to help cure the coating?

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

I weighed the suburban tonight.
Near full fuel, 2 tool boxes weighing about 40lb together, no rear bumper and with out me in it.
Front axle was 2690lb
Rear axle was 2660lb
total 5750lb
(closer to 5700lb minus the tool boxes)

Here are some weight loss mods I have been considering:
Put in an aluminum drive shaft from a newer truck
Swap my cast iron master cylinder and cast iron fluid tank with a much lighter aluminum master cylinder and plastic fluid tank out of a 2003 duramax.
I'm thinking those 2 will save 30lb.

But when the step bumper goes on that will add like 70lb and the 8 leaf springs will add about 20lb.

Edit:
Replaced the master cylinder with a 90s GM truck master cylinder from the junk yard. Brakes better than ever now.

Good work. Are those hydraulically boosted brakes? That's a popular RAM mod, as the vacuum boosted falls short for some. My QC RAM weighs 5410 with topper. I removed the factory cup holders (3#), fold-flat floor (40#), clutch fan and shroud (8#), and replaced the tailgate access panel with some corrugated plastic (10#). I suggest you look at this thread at Dodgetalk dot com for weight reduction ideas. Check the last page or two: DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums

Might look at getting some forged Centerline wheels for more weight reduction.

Good work on the bumpers. I elected to keep my chrome steel pieces after I was told to expect people to rear end me here in San Antonio...hope NM isn't that bad.

If I'd caught this earlier on, I would have suggested you take a look at the older VW Rabbit turbo diesels ('83-'84). They ran 23:1 CR and had 10 pounds of boost. No intercooler. My N/A diesel Rabbits were '78 (23.5:1) and '81 (23:1). The text I read back then said VW ran it that high to promote starting. With the direct injection engine they drop the CR a bit... 2013 TDI only runs 16.5 2013 Jetta Sedan Specs, Color, & Trim Package Comparison - Volkswagen
The VW gas turbo guys often put RTE head studs, which I think is now ARP, in to keep it all together... ARP-bolts.com | The Official Site of Automotive Racing Products, Inc.

Is your dampner an ATI unit? Heard good things about those. I'm considering getting one. Lighter than the OEM unit, and a better piece. Wish I lived closer; I'd enjoy wrenching on the diesel with you...

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by ECONORAM

The MQ didn't work for the NV3500 comment, but I'd avoid using that one. I've done some research, as I want a stick shift. It's only rated for 300 ftlbs, which means my mildly tuned 4.7 is too much for it. I agree, the NV4500 would be a good choice if you decided to go manual.

You could quite literally buy 10x NV3500's for the price of one NV4500 conversion. Not only is there is the up front cost of the 4500, a 3500 is a bolt in replacement for a 700r4, they are identical in mounting and dimensions only requiring you to cut a hole in the floor for the boot and add a clutch pedal.

Most 6.2's will handle an NV3500 just fine, just make sure you use the right sized clutch so it can slip a bit if you slam in and let off the clutch too fast. Also understand that you can rebuild an NV3500 to be much stronger for significantly less than an NV4500 up front.

My 120hp 6.2 has a WELL WORN NV3500 and thus far it works OK, but my truck will likely never pull much beyond a trailer at 15mph in a yard on occasion. Its geared WAY to high and was meant as a craft mobile.

Cheers
Ryan