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Old 06-04-2010, 02:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How did you attach your smooth hub cap cover ??

I'm trying to get some ideas on attaching a pizza pan to my 15" steel wheels on a 99 Saturn SL2. I really want to securely attach the pizza pan and stuff some foam or sponge around the outer rim to reduce vibration. Do you guys have any pictures or ideas.


I've seen the screw-on type (video), Concrete's S-10 setup, and coroplast setup (forgot the user with the Outback with front air dam and wheel covers).

Thanks

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Old 06-04-2010, 02:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Also, seen ModMonster's coroplast setup with tie wraps. I like this but will need to go find a sign shop in metro Detroit.
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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sl2eggplant -

This is one option for you :

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...isk-11838.html

If you want, I will publish the dirty details of the nuts and bolts "shish-ka-bob" fastener system later tonight.

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Old 06-04-2010, 02:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks CFG. I'm trying to get parts from local stores only and so far have not found any plastic dishes that match.


I noticed that you're using 91 octane gas. Does that help your Saturn get more mpg?
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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sl2eggplant -

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Thanks CFG. I'm trying to get parts from local stores only and so far have not found any plastic dishes that match.


I noticed that you're using 91 octane gas. Does that help your Saturn get more mpg?
If you have steelies then the Smart & Final serving trays will work without trimming the edge (which is a royal pita, BTW). I had to trim them because the edge of my alloy wheels is wider than a steelie. But the attachment method should also work with pizza pans.

Because I have an HAI, I do the 91 octane as insurance against knocking/pinging.

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Old 06-04-2010, 03:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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My HAI has reached around 225 F (I wasn't looking) and there was no pinging of any kind. Currently, IAT temps are around 150 - 180 F when ambient is around 65 - 85 F. When it gets higher than that, I turn on my little computer fan to mix the air and temps drop to 140 - 150 F.

Forgot, I stick to the cheap 87 octane gas.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I made mine out of fiberglass, using my wheels as a mold. It's cheap, effective, and it still allows access to the tire valves.

SL2EP, your HAI scares me. You can get these at your local auto parts store for $20, to automatically open a mix door at whatever temp you like.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:34 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sl2eggplant -

Thanks for the info. I think I'll reduce the octane on the next fill-up and see how it goes.

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Old 06-04-2010, 03:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm wondering about an equilateral triangle frame made from threaded rods that have turnbuckles to fasten it to the rim by "expanding" the rods; and then have 3 nuts attached (tack welded) to the frame, and use short bolts to fasten the hubcap to the frame, using the nuts.

So it would be kinda' like the clear "racing" disks, but rather than have a round frame that expands to tighten it -- it would use straight pieces to form a triangle frame instead.
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Old 06-05-2010, 12:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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sl2eggplant -

Quote:
Originally Posted by sl2eggplant View Post
Thanks CFG. I'm trying to get parts from local stores only and so far have not found any plastic dishes that match.

...
Here you go :

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
...

Here is the anatomy of my overkill but solid as a pet-rock connection system :



1 - A square piece of craft sponge to keep the bolt snug. This keeps it from rattling around when I am installing the cover. The cylinder shape is from being squished up against the real lug nut. Pipe insulation is perfect in place of craft insulation.

2 - Bolt with nut screwed all the way on. This was a quick way to shorten the bolt by the width of the nut.

3 - A washer to cover the ...

4 - Lock washer to help make things snug followed by ...

5 - Another washer to cover up the lock washer. Therefore, 3+4+5 form a washer+lock washer+washer sandwich that protects the ...

6 - Plastic lug nut that is the base for the attachement system. Notice that the hole is small. I did this to preserve as much of the plastic as possible. I wanted to do this because every milligram of plastic that is preserved contributes to the robustness of the solution. That hole is 0.15" in diameter. The bolt is the same, so I have to screw it on to get it to go through.

7 - A plumbing washer that is conical in shape on the side that touches the plastic lug nut.

8 - A line representing the plastic wheel cover.

9 - A washer with a rubberized backing. In this way 7+8+9 are all "plastic on plastic" with a metal bolt going through. My thinking is that this helps to protect the (brittle plastic) wheel cover from damage by isolating it from metal parts.

10 - Another lock washer to help keep the ...

11 - Retaining nut. When I screw on the nut, even though there is nothing to keep the bolt from spinning, there is enough friction in the setup to allow the bolt to screw on quite well. I just screw it hand-tight. I have not lost a single nut (yet).

...

CarloSW2

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