How to Setup UltraGauge

[digital rules]

Originally Posted by darcane

Well, for your primary screen, I'd set it up for 6 gauges (looks like 8 loses the open loop indicator and large size for Instant MPG is good.)

Agreed, the 8 gauge page does not display DFCO accurately & you lose the open loop indicator.

[jcp123]

Open loop indicator - is it really that important?

[digital rules]

Yes, the loop indicator is useful for determining enrichment when accelerating. Enrichment usually occurs ~ 80% load for most cars.

[Fat Charlie]

Instant and short trip cover the upper half, then fuel level and DTE take the bottom left and avg mppg and coolant temp take the bottom right.

It takes multiple tanks to calibrate, just keep doing it until you're happy with the numbers.

[SilverCrown9701]

I DID IT!

I drove 504 miles this past trip cycle in mixed traffic and averaged 37.4 MPG!!!

This is the most I've ever earned and I'm very proud of myself!

Excuse my excitement, I'll calm down lol. I just can't believe how well I did in such a big car as the Camry. WOOHOO! My biggest changes were implementing DWL and not using air conditioning. I've listed my fuel up in my garage along with what I did differently from my last trip cycle.

My new goal is to reach 40 MPG average

[SilverCrown9701]

So, here is a list of the available gauges for my 2001 Toyota Camry.


Which of the following listed below offer the best feedback while driving for better fuel economy???.....


Open/Closed Loop Emissions Status
Percent Engine Load
Engine coolant temperature (°F)
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) PSI
RPM
MPH
Ignition Timing Advance
Intake Air Temperature (°F)
Absolute Throttle Position Percentage
Bank 1 Oxygen Sensor 2 Voltage
Bank 1 Wide Oxygen Sensor 1 lambda Voltage
Boost Pressure, (Relative Pressure) (PSI)
Brake Horsepower 1
Torque 1 (ft lbs)
Brake Horsepower 2
Torque 2 (ft lbs)
Volumetric Efficiency
UG Battery voltage
Mass Air Flow 2, Calibrated/Calculated
Instantaneous MPG
Intantaneous Gallons/Hour (GPH)
Distance to Empty(DTE)(miles)
Time to Empty (TTE)
Fuel Level (gallons)
Oil Distance(miles)
Service Distance(miles)
General Purpose
Average MPH
Average MPG
Average Gallon/Hour (GPH)
Fuel Used (gallons)
Run Time
Distance (miles)
TRIP GAUGES
Run Time
Average MPH
Average MPG
Fuel Used Gallons
Average Gallon Per Hour (GPH)
UltraGauge Internal Temperature (°F)
SHORT TRIP GAUGES
Run Time
Avergage MPG
Fuel Used (gallons)
Average gallons/hour
Average MPH
Distance (miles)

[jcp123]

Nice work! Great numbers from the Kanmuri.

The gauges you use will depend as much on personal preference as much as anything else. I personally use TPS as the ultimate guide, some prefer load but I always question load as it's a calculated value vs. TPS which is straight from the horse's mouth. Plus I get the impression load works better with stick given that an autotragic tends to downshift when put under big loads. Or maybe it's because I don't really understand what to do with load readings? Since yours is speed-density, I also am not sure what that changes vs. a mass air setup like mine.

I do as a courtesy, so to speak, like to have a DTE or gallons remaining, plus coolant temp. Rpm is nice to have as well, really tells the breakover point on hills when you stop losing revs, start to maintain, then gain revs, also great for faster feedback on the flats for modulating your throttle.

[SilverCrown9701]

Originally Posted by jcp123

Nice work! Great numbers from the Kanmuri.

The gauges you use will depend as much on personal preference as much as anything else. I personally use TPS as the ultimate guide, some prefer load but I always question load as it's a calculated value vs. TPS which is straight from the horse's mouth. Plus I get the impression load works better with stick given that an autotragic tends to downshift when put under big loads. Or maybe it's because I don't really understand what to do with load readings? Since yours is speed-density, I also am not sure what that changes vs. a mass air setup like mine.

I do as a courtesy, so to speak, like to have a DTE or gallons remaining, plus coolant temp. Rpm is nice to have as well, really tells the breakover point on hills when you stop losing revs, start to maintain, then gain revs, also great for faster feedback on the flats for modulating your throttle.

What about Timing Advance, Volumetric Efficiency, Intake Manifold Pressure?

Also, what's better to use? Fuel Level or Fuel Used??

[SilverCrown9701]

I noticed that the lower my Throttle Position, the better my FE. If I keep it below 16, then it boosts my mileage.

However, I also noticed that if I keep the throttle position too low, then I begin to lose speed and risk coming out of overdrive.

Is there a better way to use throttle position than what I'm currently doing??

[Fat Charlie]

Fuel used matters when you're calculating the previous tank's mpg. I have fuel level on my display- but I told the UG that I have a 10.1 gallon tank so my instrumentation gives me a half gallon safety that I don't want to get into. It les me get down to zero (of what I'm willing to use) without the hill a few miles short of the gas station starving the fuel pump because of a bad angle.